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Old 31st March 2014, 09:23 PM   #11
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Yup, dobe that too. I've replaced/swapped all components on the lh/both channels except for resistors, opt and that's it.
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Old 13th April 2014, 10:08 PM   #12
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Aaaaargh!!

I've replaced all the resistors (except r17/27) on the hissing channel but still no difference.

All that's left are my expensive mundorf coupling caps, r17/27, the ccs's and the opt...
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Old 13th April 2014, 10:37 PM   #13
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I should mention, turning the volume up and down excites the hissing and, if you turn the amp off with music playing the volume slowly declines as the power reduces which is normal but the hissing stops immediately when you throw the switch to off so you get a few seconds of clear sound.
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Old 18th April 2014, 12:57 PM   #14
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Hmm, stops when you throw the switch? I'd suspect the CCS in that channel isn't happy.

But you're using the screw down terminals, right? Might as well try switching the OPTs around just to narrow things down.
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Old 19th April 2014, 07:30 AM   #15
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Hi Soda,

I have some new CCS's so I'll swap out the one for that channel and hope for the best. Good call on the opt's, I'll give that a try too if I have no joy.

Thank you for the suggestions
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Old 19th April 2014, 11:09 PM   #16
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Frustrating.

I purchased two new ccs's but ran into trouble. I replaced the left channel ccs's and it didn't work so I then replaced that one again but the second ccs's failed to work too. I observed all the handling protocol but after fitting there wasn't even a crackle!!
I've refitted the original old ccs's and we're back to square one again. What are the chances of receiving two bad ccs's?
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Old 19th April 2014, 11:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudchute View Post
Frustrating.

I purchased two new ccs's but ran into trouble. I replaced the left channel ccs's and it didn't work so I then replaced that one again but the second ccs's failed to work too. I observed all the handling protocol but after fitting there wasn't even a crackle!!
I've refitted the original old ccs's and we're back to square one again. What are the chances of receiving two bad ccs's?
Where are you sourcing your CCS ICs?? Which ones are they?? Pretty unlikely you get 2 bad ones. Maybe your solder joints are suspect or you have them mounted backward. I did that first time but never powered on, I just had a feeling it wasn't right so I slept on it woke up fresh and reversed them.. When I purchase ICs I always buy an extra set for the Murphy's Law thing.

You can test those current regulators with your DMM, unlikely they are both bad, I'd be looking at your wiring. Why dont you take a picture of how they are on the board and post here.

Cheers,
Bob
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Old 2nd May 2014, 12:06 AM   #18
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It turns out that the ccs's I bought were copies and not genuine IXYS items. I verified correct fitment and had others check I fitted them in the correct orientation too just incase I was losing it.

I've ordered replacements from digikey so hopefully I'll have them soon.

The noise has improved since I've been playing with the ccs. Likely it wasn't getting a good enough contact with its heatsink and allowing it to adequately dissipate heat.
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Old 2nd May 2014, 11:26 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by mudchute View Post
It turns out that the ccs's I bought were copies and not genuine IXYS items. I verified correct fitment and had others check I fitted them in the correct orientation too just incase I was losing it.

I've ordered replacements from digikey so hopefully I'll have them soon.

The noise has improved since I've been playing with the ccs. Likely it wasn't getting a good enough contact with its heatsink and allowing it to adequately dissipate heat.
Did you order the heat sink kit as well. Those chips wont be happy unless they get some heat dissipation. I think they will just cut off at the specified heat tolerance. With chips I don't cut corners just get the originals from a trusted source (Digikey = trusted) and you will be fine. There's too much crap out there to wade thru and find the goodn's.

Good luck there.
Cheers,
Bob
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Old 2nd May 2014, 11:43 PM   #20
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I used the ones advised by George, they've been on there since day one. They're well exposed, the amp chassis has no plate under neath and there's an adequate air gap for air to be drawn in from under the amp. The holes around the tubes are a good size too so it should draw some air up and over the pcb/ccs via convection.

Oddly the other channel was making the occasional bit of noise today as well. Oh joy.
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