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Old 4th October 2013, 09:37 PM   #11
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socket cover

One of these might work around your 12at7, might be too big. Closest I have seen to what you want.
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Old 5th October 2013, 02:37 AM   #12
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Thanks, Randy! I have browsed that site but missed those. I was thinking of sourcing my knows there anyways.
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Old 7th October 2013, 07:55 PM   #13
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After a few days of ownership, I've got a couple of observations.

I have no hum at the speakers without my turntable/source powered up unless I max the volume and put my ear to the speaker. I'm totally happy with performance with respect to this. I have noticed some 'buzzing' from the amp when running though. I assume this is something mechanical related to my PT. It's not audible from my listening seat or from more than a couple feet away, but I may try some thicker washers on the PT/choke and cranking down on the PT bells.

The first time my wife turned on the amp, she blew the fuse! She sort of switched it on and then off very quickly (just trying the switch, I guess). Without having allowed the tubes to warm up and start conducting, I would guess that this just created a spike in the PS caps that had nowhere to dissipate once the amp was switched off? Is that close? I'm not worried, just interested in exactly what causes this. It should be noted that I do not have an R2 installed as I didn't have the correct value on hand (that will be rectified once R2 arrives). It's a bleeder resistor, so that probably contributed to the fuse blowing there. Amp works fine after replacing the fuse.

All in all, I'm still bowled over by the sound. Really a fantastic little amp. I'm a little scared about doing any type of modification that would change it, but I'll try installing a CFB and UL switch at some point in the future.
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Old 7th October 2013, 08:18 PM   #14
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I'm assuming she actually switched it on/off/on as imle that is usually what blows the fuse, and relates to the induced emf from the collapsing magnetic field and the phase relationship of that to the line voltage when the switch is cycled. (If they are not close a lot of current flows) Possibly if it really was on/off perhaps it arced across the switch if sufficient current flows perhaps this could blow the fuse.
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Old 7th October 2013, 08:34 PM   #15
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It could have been on/off/on, though we didn't listen to it at that moment and I didn't see that the fuse was blown until later. I'll sit her down and go through Tube Amp 101 tonight

Maybe I'll tell her the tubes are the big glass things on top and that now I have to get another set...
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Old 7th October 2013, 09:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodacose View Post
It could have been on/off/on, though we didn't listen to it at that moment and I didn't see that the fuse was blown until later.
Definitely a "no no" with tube rectification.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodacose View Post
I'll sit her down and go through Tube Amp 101 tonight
Go idea.

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Maybe I'll tell her the tubes are the big glass things on top and that now I have to get another set...
Yes, they are now permanently damaged from her actions.

jeff
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Old 7th October 2013, 11:37 PM   #17
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"Oh and by the way, honey, we should probably get a couple of back up sets in different shapes in case this happens again."
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Old 10th March 2014, 02:09 PM   #18
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Update! Pulled that extra resistor that was in series with the choke. Should raise B+ slightly. Also, here's a pic of my grounding and the amp guts for anyone that's working through one of these builds:

Click the image to open in full size.
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