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Old 12th May 2013, 08:39 PM   #1
gmonno is offline gmonno  Italy
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Default TSE : final configuration

Hi, finally I get it : my TSE is correctly working, tried with some car speakers and .... sound goes out.

Left it working for about two hours : now come the observations and questions.

First of all, my configuration :

Tubelab SE prepared for 300B
Power transformer : Hammond 373 EX (650 VCT - 345 mA)
Output transformers : One Electron UBT-2 (4.8K)

In the supply :
7H 130 Ohm choke in place of R4
C4 47 uF + 20 uF motor run in parallel
C5 : 150uF + 100uF motor run in parallel

C9 - C11 : 0,58 mfd Auricap

Tubes :
5AR4 Sovtek
5842 Raytheon
300B Valve Art


OK now the values I have after a large two hours stabilization are :

B+ : 370 V
Current through the plate supply of output tube (R18, R29) : 70 mA
Voltage at the 5842 plate : 177V (I could lower it)

The questions :

1) after the first hour both the power transformer AND the choke get hot : it's not so hot I cannot touch but hot enough to strongly warm the hand; is this normal?

2) reading around in the forum George says he would put a B+ of 400V and a 90mA current for the output tubes : but (obviously) I see that if I put up the current then B+ will lower, and reverse lowering the current will raise B+.
The question is : is better go for higher current (say 80 or 90 mA but maybe 350V B+) or thinking that the best operational window for the 300B is around 370-380V?
Or would it be better lower the current to mantain the 300B working around 400V?
Resuming I have no idea of the impact in the hardware and the sound of these choices, so I'm not able to decide what is better.

Thanks for reading, and thaks for suggestions.

Giuseppe (Madrid)
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Old 13th May 2013, 02:33 PM   #2
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Take a look at this link scroll down to "The 300B tube:"
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Old 13th May 2013, 04:23 PM   #3
gmonno is offline gmonno  Italy
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Thanks, you're completely right : 70 mA is OK

What about the first question (the heat issue)?


Thanks
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Old 14th May 2013, 03:35 PM   #4
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If you are able to put your hand on it for a few seconds, it's ok.
Allied Transformer Runs quite Hot
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Old 14th May 2013, 06:21 PM   #5
gmonno is offline gmonno  Italy
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Evenharmonics, many thanks

giuseppe
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Old 17th May 2013, 02:19 PM   #6
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giusepp: 67uf for C4 may be busting the specs for a 5AR4........possibly risking an arc-over on start-up.
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Old 17th May 2013, 06:48 PM   #7
gmonno is offline gmonno  Italy
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Boywonder, you are a kind of genius : I'm experimenting arc on startup and up to today I've blown one of FRED (D2) and two Sovtek 5AR4.
I was just wondering what may be.

Maybe I should lower C4 to a SUM of 47 uF?

Talking about 5AR4, I understand that the advantage is that being an indirect heater will give B+ with some dely, so permitting the heating of tube filaments.
Are there alternative tubes that are well experimented?
I blown my two 5AR4 and have to buy more....



Many thanks for your help.
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Old 17th May 2013, 08:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmonno View Post

Maybe I should lower C4 to a SUM of 47 uF?
Yes, or lower than 47uf. Check the datasheet for whatever 5AR4 that you are using (or thinking about using). They should list a max capacitance value for a given current draw. The further you get below this value, the happier your 5AR4 will be.

The issue with big first caps is that when they are empty on startup they have very low resistance and the current required to put out by the rectifier exceeds it's rating.

The new issue stuff is not as robust as vintage 5AR4's, and 47uf or thereabouts is about the max to try. You should be able to lower C4 down to around 22uf-33uf or less and not impact (reduce) the B+.

I'm actually just a semi-newbie around here like lots of others, although I try to read a lot.

Last edited by boywonder; 17th May 2013 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 25th May 2013, 06:20 PM   #9
gmonno is offline gmonno  Italy
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Argh... Another 5AR4 gone
This time the error was that reconnecting all cables I put the red (550V) in place of the yellow (5V-filament) [and the yellow in place od red]

Obviously the tube made a VERY intense light for about three-five seconds.

Change cables to correct configuration and try again : this time the rectifier says nothing until voltage arrives to 200V : at that point it begin to make strange intermittent lights so I decide that has completely gone, throw it away and check situation without any tube.

Instruction say that I should observe some negative voltage on R7, but both on R30 and R7 I see no voltage at all
The transformer is working well.

May have broken some other parts? Is it possible that FRED (D2, D3) have gone? [I don't think] Anyway how check it?
Any more suggestion?

Thanks
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Old 25th May 2013, 07:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmonno View Post
Is it possible that FRED (D2, D3) have gone? [I don't think] Anyway how check it?
http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ting-guide.pdf
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