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Old 19th March 2013, 07:57 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mudchute View Post
What about from the board to the speaker terminals?
Not as critical as the input wires, as the signal is much larger going to the speakers, so whatever you want. I usually use plain ol' 18-20ga wire.

If you are wiring anything else on the HV side of the power transformer, use 600V rated wire. With Tubelab's PCB, you just wire the transformer secondaries to the PCB which are already 600V rated. For example, if you are adding and off-board motor run cap or a choke without integral leads, use 600V rated wire, as you will be exceeding the rating of 300V wire.
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Old 19th March 2013, 08:00 PM   #12
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I was looking at the Mudorf silver/gold hookup wire in 0.5mm. Is this a good dia'?

Yes I doo need to double check some of that wiring. I plumped for 20awg wiring to connect up my board in its test state but I might go for 16awg to be safe in the 600v rating you suggested.

Last edited by mudchute; 19th March 2013 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 19th March 2013, 08:05 PM   #13
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Offtopic but I think you may help, I was wondering whether replacing the capacitor to highly graded Panasonic/Nichicon...will improve the output. The amp is now working on the standard caps as Tayler suggested
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Old 19th March 2013, 08:51 PM   #14
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I think the only caps worth replacing the coupling caps. I've put the parts list ones in to start with but I have some Mundorf silver/somethings to go in their place a littel later so that I can hear if there's any difference.
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Old 19th March 2013, 09:13 PM   #15
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Offtopic but I think you may help, I was wondering whether replacing the capacitor to highly graded Panasonic/Nichicon...will improve the output. The amp is now working on the standard caps as Tayler suggested
Sagi: What cap(s) are you referring to?
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Old 21st March 2013, 06:09 PM   #16
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Now I am using
PW series from Nichicon for the 1500uf caps
Cornell for the 0.22uf coupling cap
Cornell LX for the 150uf and for the 47uf 500V
Panasonic ECQ for the 0.47 100V
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Old 22nd March 2013, 05:32 AM   #17
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The PW series is pretty well-suited for that location. They are low impedance types. The PA series is even lower, but I doubt you'd notice the difference. The 47uF cap is not very important. A higher impedance may be better for the sake of the rectifier. If you have a film cap bypassing C2 already (the "auxiliary" cap), then the type is not so important. If C2 is on its own, a better cap can improve performance. Whether or not it would be audible is debatable.

The coupling cap is a matter of taste. Folks spend a lot of time and money playing around with those.
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Old 22nd March 2013, 06:18 AM   #18
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So , if to summarize it , the only cap that can/not improve the sound the coupling cap ?
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Old 22nd March 2013, 02:33 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by sagi4422 View Post
So , if to summarize it , the only cap that can/not improve the sound the coupling cap ?
A low output impedance out of the power supply is usually a good thing. Using low ESR rated caps in the PS will help keep the output impedance low, so that when the amp demands lots of current it is available from the PS without much voltage drop. In a class A amp (which all single ended amps are) the current draw from the PS is constant so it's not clear to me if low ESR will make much difference in SE amps.

Low ESR caps are typically specified for power supply use in the specs and usually have a ripple current rating.

You can play with coupling caps; consider Russian surplus caps from Ebay. They are very affordable and high quality. There are at least 1/2 dozen different types of Russian caps (PIO, teflon, etc) and any of these will plug and play provided they are the appropriate uf and voltage rating. The Teflon FT Russian caps are big.
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Old 22nd March 2013, 02:57 PM   #20
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I read a lot regarding the electrolytic caps : Panasonic FW Nichicon KZ silmicII,
As I understand , it is not the issue here ?!
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