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Old 20th May 2013, 04:21 AM   #131
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Boywonder,
I've been following this thread from page 1 and I've gotta tell you
that you are indeed a "Wonderboy"!! You just acquired another fan!!
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Old 20th May 2013, 07:56 AM   #132
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Definitely !
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Old 20th May 2013, 02:42 PM   #133
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Hello sagi4422,

I saw in the pictures placed in post #112 that you are using toogle switch with 3 positions, ie ON / OFF / ON, probably to select UL / Triode and CFB disabling. Is that right? Is there any problem by using these switch?

I´m asking because I put a thread here in the forum and got no convincing answer.
I have some of these switches and would like to use them in the assembly of SSE.

Another question about the toogle switch (red lever) placed on the right side of the rotary switch: is it to select the rectifier mode? Is it a SPDT, On/Off?

Thank you
Sgrilli AD
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Old 20th May 2013, 04:31 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgrilli AD View Post
Hello sagi4422,

I saw in the pictures placed in post #112 that you are using toogle switch with 3 positions, ie ON / OFF / ON, probably to select UL / Triode and CFB disabling. Is that right? Is there any problem by using these switch?

I´m asking because I put a thread here in the forum and got no convincing answer.
I have some of these switches and would like to use them in the assembly of SSE.

Another question about the toogle switch (red lever) placed on the right side of the rotary switch: is it to select the rectifier mode? Is it a SPDT, On/Off?

Thank you
Sgrilli AD

Based on comments by some of the more experienced members here, you
should be using separate switches for UL/Triode select and CFB on/off.
Here is a quote from a comment posted by Russ Knize on January 15, 2013

"Power switch and rectifier select is SPST. The triode/UL and cathode feedback switches are DPDT if you want to control both channels with one switch each. A standard 240VAC line-rated switch is sufficient for all. If you choose a switch with a metal handle, be sure the switch body is safely grounded to the chassis."
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Old 20th May 2013, 05:41 PM   #135
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More experienced members already answered your questions.

My advice for you, play a week or two, even more with all the functions without the chassis. Than choose the best configuration per your listening. I rarely use those switches after I found my best conf. and it will reduce dramatically the amount of wiring
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Old 20th May 2013, 05:53 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagi4422 View Post
My advice for you, play a week or two, even more with all the functions without the chassis. Than choose the best configuration per your listening. I rarely use those switches after I found my best conf. and it will reduce dramatically the amount of wiring
That's good advise......
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Old 20th May 2013, 07:33 PM   #137
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Thanks to sagi4422 and boywonder,

But ... I think my question was not answered. I just wonder if these 3 positions switch are adequate, because I saw them in the sagi4422 project, or if I need to use some with only two positions (ON / ON).

And ... just to clarify, I will use one switch for each function, certainly.

Thanks again

Sgrilli AD
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Old 20th May 2013, 08:10 PM   #138
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On/on dpdt is ok.
You didn't understand what I meant . I said that consider connect all the switches and functions BEFoRE inserting them into the chassis. Hear how the conf. Influence the sound and decide what is good for you. Than keep only that circuit , without the switches .
For instance , if you like the most UL with CFB , connect it directly without the switch permanently
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Old 20th May 2013, 09:49 PM   #139
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Location: Poços de Caldas - Minas Gerais
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagi4422 View Post
On/on dpdt is ok.
You didn't understand what I meant . I said that consider connect all the switches and functions BEFoRE inserting them into the chassis. Hear how the conf. Influence the sound and decide what is good for you. Than keep only that circuit , without the switches .
For instance , if you like the most UL with CFB , connect it directly without the switch permanently
Hi sagi4422,

Sure, I understood what you meant and this is what I will do. To perform the test I will need the switches, then this is the reason for my question.

Thanks

Sgrilli AD
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Old 20th May 2013, 10:23 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgrilli AD View Post
But ... I think my question was not answered. I just wonder if these 3 positions switch are adequate, because I saw them in the sagi4422 project, or if I need to use some with only two positions (ON / ON).

And ... just to clarify, I will use one switch for each function, certainly.

Thanks again

Sgrilli AD
Sgrilli:

I don't know the answer to your question, but you need to consider what would happen with either or both switches in the "off" position. In either case, you have either the suppressor grid not connected to anything or the screen grid not connected to anything. For the most part, having tube grids floating is not a good idea.

For a couple of bucks, I would just get proper switches, or as Sagi mentioned, determine what mode you like during the build, and wire it that way.
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