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Old 11th March 2013, 08:40 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagi4422 View Post
Any recommendation for mods to this build ?
I am preparing the chassis and I am willing to include/replace the mods before installing the parts
Thanks
Are you including the switches for UL/triode and SS/tube rectification?

You could also do a cathode R selector with multiple resistors of you want to run different output tubes.

Rknize has a great example of this; it's posted in a few threads around here.

The combo of SS/tube rectification and cathode R switch gives 2 B+ voltages and a range of bias currents.

You may want to consider putting these around the back or some other non-obvious place to minimize the possibility of these getting flipped with the amp powered up.
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Old 11th March 2013, 08:48 PM   #92
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For your Q, ul/triode and ss/tube are in.
R selector is something I should consider

I was thinking about remote volume control and remote on/off switch.
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Old 11th March 2013, 10:11 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by sagi4422 View Post
........remote volume control .......
Check out ebay for kits.
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Old 18th March 2013, 06:19 AM   #94
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Though about adding VU meters.
Which VU meter to choose ? should I measure the voltage (0-1000V) or the amperage (0-100mV) of the tubes ?
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Old 27th March 2013, 09:19 PM   #95
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So I am back
After mounting the amp into the chassis and wiring, one channel is not working.
I tried to connect the channel bypassing the POT and nothing happen.
How do I measure whether the output transformer is working correctly ? Or any other suggestions to trace the problem ?
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Old 28th March 2013, 12:09 AM   #96
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Methodically.....

First off, you know it worked once not too long ago.... So you have that going for you.

.......and you know it's not the PS as one channel is working.

Triple check your wiring, then check it again.

Are all the filaments lit? Dim the room lights to check if req'd.

I would suggest checking the DC voltages at the pins of the both the 12AT7 and the output tube of the dead channel to start with. Do so carefully with one hand or clip leads, as a few pins will have high voltage on them. You can also compare the various pin voltages from the working channel to the dead channel.

Let us know what you find out.
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Old 28th March 2013, 05:48 PM   #97
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Well I found the problem (something I was suspected in) - the POT. this one was with PCB legs so there is a problem to solder wiring to it (especially thin ones). I bypassed the POT and both channels are working.
Now I am waiting for another POT, can you say whether this one is a suitable one ?
RV24BF-10-15R1-A50K Alpha (Taiwan) | Mouser
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Old 28th March 2013, 05:54 PM   #98
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Yes, that pot will work fine.
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Old 28th March 2013, 06:03 PM   #99
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Thanks.
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Old 28th March 2013, 09:23 PM   #100
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Going back to the VU meter, what should I choose? some are showing the voltage and some the current. I am looking for something that will not stay constant, otherwise will move like the VU meters were on tape decks when recording
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