Simple SE parts list - Missing specs
Looking for the missing specs/mouser # for the parts to build Tubelab Simple Se amp. Below is the list:
BTW: I am using 220-240V in my country.
Power Socket with fuse holder
Binding Post red (2 X)
Binding Post black (2 X)
RCA jack (2 X)
GZ-34 or 5AR4 tube
Auxiliary power supply cap
Thanks in advance.
One more question, which type of wiring should I use for signal and electrical ?
You can do a search at Digikey or Mouser for the items on your list.
You can also do a search on EBay for these items.
A lot of questions can be answered by searching and reading through past
posts on a variety subjects on the Tubelab Forum.
The auxiliary power supply cap is a MOTOR RUN cap anything between 50 mfd and 100 mfd and at least 370 VAC. Here is just one example of a
motor run cap on Ebay............
Run Capacitor 80 MFD 370 440V Single Pole New | eBay
Here is just one example of a 5AR4 tube on Ebay........
1x New Sovtek 5AR4 GZ34 Sov Tek Vacuum Tube Tested | eBay
Binding posts and RCA input sockets can also be found on Ebay......
2pair Speaker Cable Tube Amp Power Amplifier Terminal Plug Binding Post Small 8D | eBay
2X Amplifier Audio Terminal Jack Panel Mount RCA Connector Female Adapter Socket | eBay
These are just a few examples. There some things that a builder is
expected to research himself/herself.
Happy hunting http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/data:...9KDhgGAQQAOw==
Basically I already find those thinks but I wonder due to the many models in the markets , if there is any specifications the components should meet ( like your support with the motor cap ).
For the switches , are any req. for intrinsic resistance or just a standard on/off switch?
And the wires....
think should be on/on (either one or the other is selected) I am starting out
with just a basic configuration and maybe later on I'll see about the other
choices. There is not much wire needed. A short piece for the RCA input which can be 18 to 22 AWG, the negative and positive leads should be twisted tightly throughout its length. Also bit of grounding wire 18 or 16 AWG. All other wire come with the transformers.
Power switch and rectifier select is SPST. The triode/UL and cathode feedback switches are DPDT if you want to control both channels with one switch each. A standard 240VAC line-rated switch is sufficient for all. If you choose a switch with a metal handle, be sure the switch body is safely grounded to the chassis.
Wire should be 600VDC rated. I prefer solid, but that is really up to you. I use 20 AWG, mostly.
I seem to be in the same boat as you. presently i am ordering my switches for the sse and am totally lost on the wiring and types of dpdt and spst switches. Looking at the schematic I think there is only three wires so when one is on the other is off. this would make a six pole switch in stereo? and a on off(2 pole) for rectifier?
The rectifier switch can be any on-off type of power switch. For mode and feedback control, each channel requires a single pole with two on positions and one contact (double throw). So if you want a single switch to control mode or feedback for both channels, you need two poles...double pole. Google DPDT for a better explanation. As for the specific type of switch, that is largely up to you. Toggle switches are common because they just need a small, round hole.
|All times are GMT. The time now is 01:21 AM.|
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2016 diyAudio