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Old 11th November 2012, 07:05 PM   #1
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Default Tubelab SE tube sockets

Hi, just received one of each board from George. Plan on building the Tubelab SE first with 45 outputs. From experience what are the best tube sockets to use? Can I go for any 8pin, 9pin and 4pin socket as long as it's PCB mount or are some easier to mount than others? I'm in Edmonton, Canada so a Canadian supplier would probably be easier.

Cheers

Richard
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Old 11th November 2012, 11:57 PM   #2
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Old 12th November 2012, 12:26 AM   #3
cotdt is offline cotdt  United States
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I prefer using the teflon sockets over the ceramic ones, the teflon ones are smoother to take tubes in and out.
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Old 12th November 2012, 01:11 PM   #4
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Will any teflon socket with the right pin out fit the board? Where do you get yours? I see there are lots on eBay. Also just doing the Digikey order thing and there are a few obsolete parts, specs on possible replacements are not exactly the same as part specified in list, should I run the replacements by George?
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Old 12th November 2012, 01:28 PM   #5
cotdt is offline cotdt  United States
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if the socket looks like it has straight pins, it would probably fit. the socket mounts are pretty standard, though not all of them follow the standard. george's website lists the part numbers for the standard ceramic ones that would fit for sure.

yes, get the replacement parts for the MOSFETs.
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Old 13th November 2012, 01:14 AM   #6
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Default Tubelab 45

Found these transformers, guy in Vancouver is selling them. I already bought a pair of SE outputs for my Tubelab 45 from him. This power trans seems to fit the bill

2x 120V input (120~240V)

Heavy duty output for:

275--0--275V (140mA)

0-5V (3.6A)

3.2--0--3.2V (3A)

Physically its 4" in diameter x 2 1/8" high Toroid.

Wondering if it's a bit small?
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Old 16th November 2012, 12:33 AM   #7
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nb should you ever want to use TJ Meshplate 45s, they are large tubes, and will need the sockets mounted off the board to prevent the tubes touching each other.

I am now working out the best way to do this after mounting sockets directly on the board. I wish I had known this before the build.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jet5/80...ream/lightbox/
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FLAC, Ethernet over Mains, SB3, GD Audio DAC 19. Tubelab SE with TJ Meshplate 45s. Fostex FE208ez in Kirishima Horns with Fountek NeoCD 2.0 Ribbon supertweeters (0.68uF & LPads).

Last edited by Alan Hope; 16th November 2012 at 12:34 AM. Reason: add link
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Old 16th November 2012, 05:20 AM   #8
cotdt is offline cotdt  United States
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you would have to cut the old sockets off, and then desolder whatever is still attached to the PCB. i've had to do this after mounting the sockets incorrectly
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Old 16th November 2012, 06:59 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cotdt View Post
you would have to cut the old sockets off, and then desolder whatever is still attached to the PCB. i've had to do this after mounting the sockets incorrectly
Ouch, these are well soldered in.

I had been considering using a couple of tube-bases and wiring new sockets into these using them as a short extender.

Or my current preference, simply soldering new wires to the opposite side of the board from the current sockets and having the extension with the original sockets left in place. Would be quickest, easily reversible, and least likely to mess up the board.

If the tubes were just very close I would live with it - it sounds fantastic, but I can't leave them actually touching.

(Sorry, looks like I've hijacked the thread, but it is relevant for any 45 amp build.)
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FLAC, Ethernet over Mains, SB3, GD Audio DAC 19. Tubelab SE with TJ Meshplate 45s. Fostex FE208ez in Kirishima Horns with Fountek NeoCD 2.0 Ribbon supertweeters (0.68uF & LPads).
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