You can checkout this place...........
Pacific Semiconductors Inc. - Search
or if you want to try Ebay there are sellers mostly from China........
2SK3563 | eBay
I bought them from ebay.
here are the links:
5pcs 2SK3563 K3563 Original Toshiba Field Effect Transistor | eBay
1pcs IXCP10M45S Switchable Current Regulators Original | eBay
What about the 33K resistor insted of the 36K? how will it effect?
How do i choose a fuze for my amp? using 240V, B+ 400V.
Thanks
here are the links:
5pcs 2SK3563 K3563 Original Toshiba Field Effect Transistor | eBay
1pcs IXCP10M45S Switchable Current Regulators Original | eBay
What about the 33K resistor insted of the 36K? how will it effect?
How do i choose a fuze for my amp? using 240V, B+ 400V.
Thanks
Ran: All of my mosfets and 10M45's were purchased from either Digikey or Mouser, so I have no experience with fakes.
Here are a few pics of my parts for reference. If the printing looks the same (other than lot/date code) they are probably real. Look at the font and other symbology closely.
For the source R on the mosfet, I think the value will change the drain-source voltage across the device based on it's current. Keep in mind that I am not an expert but your slightly lower R value will (I think) slightly increase the drain-source voltage across the device. I'm sure that you would be fine with a 2SK3564 as it has a 900V D-S voltage rating vs 500V for the 3563 although the 3563 may still work fine also.
The grid bias is adjustable with the pot, the drain-source voltage has to be high enough to provide enough headroom for the signal but not so high to put excessive heat dissipation out of the device.
The drain-source voltage across these parts has been a lingering question for me..I suppose that I could measure it in my amp.
The advantage of the 3563 part is that it is a little easier to drive (lower gate capacitance) than the 3564 part, but it has a lower D-S voltage rating.
I have the 3564's in my 300B TSE and 3563's in my 45 TSE and nothing has smoked.
As far as the fuse goes I would pick up some slow blow 1/2 to 3/4 amp fuses.....any buy extras...
Here are a few pics of my parts for reference. If the printing looks the same (other than lot/date code) they are probably real. Look at the font and other symbology closely.
For the source R on the mosfet, I think the value will change the drain-source voltage across the device based on it's current. Keep in mind that I am not an expert but your slightly lower R value will (I think) slightly increase the drain-source voltage across the device. I'm sure that you would be fine with a 2SK3564 as it has a 900V D-S voltage rating vs 500V for the 3563 although the 3563 may still work fine also.
The grid bias is adjustable with the pot, the drain-source voltage has to be high enough to provide enough headroom for the signal but not so high to put excessive heat dissipation out of the device.
The drain-source voltage across these parts has been a lingering question for me..I suppose that I could measure it in my amp.
The advantage of the 3563 part is that it is a little easier to drive (lower gate capacitance) than the 3564 part, but it has a lower D-S voltage rating.
I have the 3564's in my 300B TSE and 3563's in my 45 TSE and nothing has smoked.
As far as the fuse goes I would pick up some slow blow 1/2 to 3/4 amp fuses.....any buy extras...
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3564's and 3563's
I've purchased TSE boards and have been collecting parts for a couple of build variations and ordered 3564's recently due to 3563's being obsolete and reading about 3564's as viable substitutions in various TSE build threads here.
However, as being more of a builder that can follow directions and understands how to take measurements vs. someone that understands the intricacies of circuit design or how to pick substitute parts, would 3564's be appropriate for use in a 45 TSE build since it seems many have built 300b versions? Thank you.
I've purchased TSE boards and have been collecting parts for a couple of build variations and ordered 3564's recently due to 3563's being obsolete and reading about 3564's as viable substitutions in various TSE build threads here.
However, as being more of a builder that can follow directions and understands how to take measurements vs. someone that understands the intricacies of circuit design or how to pick substitute parts, would 3564's be appropriate for use in a 45 TSE build since it seems many have built 300b versions? Thank you.
Many thanks again
And for the record, after i got my transformers i think i will built my Amp with separated PT, like yours.
It's heavy
Nice! The James stuff is top shelf and not too bad $$$. I have some Hashimoto transformers that I hope to build a KT88 triode PP amp with Tubelab's "powerdrive" mosfet setup in. They are really nice as well.....
It's large because of the high current demands on the filament supply. Even though the regulator has fairly low drop-out, there not a lot of margin to work with there since it is drawing from a 6.3VAC supply. The input tube's heater pulls from this too, but before the regulator.
Since you are using 45s, you may be able to get away with less capacitance there. But why bother? It's a low voltage part and fairly cheap.
Since you are using 45s, you may be able to get away with less capacitance there. But why bother? It's a low voltage part and fairly cheap.
have a James JS 9612, it has:
1) 0-5V 6A
2) 0-CT-6.3V 3A
3) 0-5-6.3V 4A
4) 0-5-6.3V 4A
5) 400V-350V-0-80V-350V-400V 0.35A
For 300B configuration can I use (2) for the 6.3V and (3) for the 5V ?
Boywonder: did you made the power cable from the PT to the main case?
Do I need to put fuses to every tap or just to the main 350V ?
Thanks...
1) 0-5V 6A
2) 0-CT-6.3V 3A
3) 0-5-6.3V 4A
4) 0-5-6.3V 4A
5) 400V-350V-0-80V-350V-400V 0.35A
For 300B configuration can I use (2) for the 6.3V and (3) for the 5V ?
Boywonder: did you made the power cable from the PT to the main case?
Do I need to put fuses to every tap or just to the main 350V ?
Thanks...
According to this page Tubes and Transformers for 300B's you need 5V@2A and 6.3V@4A
I would use taps 3 and 4 for the above, one for the 6.3V (no need for CT) and the other for the 5V, or just use tap #1 above for the 5V
Tap #2 above is center tapped (not needed for 300B operation) and only has 3A current rating.
I just fused the mains coming in but you could fuse your B+.........whatever you do, don't fuse the bias voltage.....
My umbilical cable was a piece of leftover multi-conductor cable from another project but you can easily assemble one from individual wires; be sure to use 600V rated conductors for the B+ wires if you go that route.
The umbilical braid is easy to get from typical parts suppliers like Mouser, Digikey, etc.
Ranhaber: Are the measured voltages above when the transformer is not connected to anything ie "unloaded"?. Your filament voltages are too low, especially the 5V tap.
If the transformer has a 220V primary tap, use that instead of the 240V tap and tell us what you get for the above voltages.
Looking at my James 9611, the E terminal on the transformer is a case ground; different than the CT. I'm a bit unclear on your last question.....
The transformer is unloaded.
1) 0-5V 6A - 4.5V
2) 0-CT-6.3V 3A - 6.2V
3) 0-5-6.3V 4A - 4.5V 6.2V
4) 0-5-6.3V 4A - 4.5V 6.2V
All measured in AC mode.
The transformer work on 230VAC my region works on 220VAC.
We have 0,220VAC, Ground so what do I connect to 0 and what to Ground?
Can I connect all 0V on all the taps?
I saw the you connected the 0ohm of output transformer to Ground, why?
One last question, when I used 500mA slow blow fuse it blow, why? (After that I used 1A,OK)
thanks
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