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Old 31st March 2013, 05:41 PM   #51
Fjd is online now Fjd  United States
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Default 3564's and 3563's

Quote:
Originally Posted by boywonder View Post

The advantage of the 3563 part is that it is a little easier to drive (lower gate capacitance) than the 3564 part, but it has a lower D-S voltage rating.

I have the 3564's in my 300B TSE and 3563's in my 45 TSE and nothing has smoked.
I've purchased TSE boards and have been collecting parts for a couple of build variations and ordered 3564's recently due to 3563's being obsolete and reading about 3564's as viable substitutions in various TSE build threads here.

However, as being more of a builder that can follow directions and understands how to take measurements vs. someone that understands the intricacies of circuit design or how to pick substitute parts, would 3564's be appropriate for use in a 45 TSE build since it seems many have built 300b versions? Thank you.
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Old 31st March 2013, 05:53 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranhaber View Post
Many thanks again

And for the record, after i got my transformers i think i will built my Amp with separated PT, like yours.

It's heavy

Nice! The James stuff is top shelf and not too bad $$$. I have some Hashimoto transformers that I hope to build a KT88 triode PP amp with Tubelab's "powerdrive" mosfet setup in. They are really nice as well.....
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Old 31st March 2013, 05:55 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjd View Post
However, as being more of a builder that can follow directions and understands how to take measurements vs. someone that understands the intricacies of circuit design or how to pick substitute parts, would 3564's be appropriate for use in a 45 TSE build since it seems many have built 300b versions? Thank you.
Sure, they will work fine for a 45 TSE build.
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Old 7th April 2013, 10:45 AM   #54
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Why do we need the 15000uf? Why is it so big?
What is the smallest value i can use?
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Old 8th April 2013, 02:21 AM   #55
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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It's large because of the high current demands on the filament supply. Even though the regulator has fairly low drop-out, there not a lot of margin to work with there since it is drawing from a 6.3VAC supply. The input tube's heater pulls from this too, but before the regulator.

Since you are using 45s, you may be able to get away with less capacitance there. But why bother? It's a low voltage part and fairly cheap.
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Old 20th May 2013, 05:44 PM   #56
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have a James JS 9612, it has:
1) 0-5V 6A
2) 0-CT-6.3V 3A
3) 0-5-6.3V 4A
4) 0-5-6.3V 4A
5) 400V-350V-0-80V-350V-400V 0.35A
For 300B configuration can I use (2) for the 6.3V and (3) for the 5V ?

Boywonder: did you made the power cable from the PT to the main case?

Do I need to put fuses to every tap or just to the main 350V ?

Thanks...
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Old 20th May 2013, 06:11 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranhaber View Post
have a James JS 9612, it has:
1) 0-5V 6A
2) 0-CT-6.3V 3A
3) 0-5-6.3V 4A
4) 0-5-6.3V 4A
5) 400V-350V-0-80V-350V-400V 0.35A
For 300B configuration can I use (2) for the 6.3V and (3) for the 5V ?

Boywonder: did you made the power cable from the PT to the main case?

Do I need to put fuses to every tap or just to the main 350V ?

Thanks...
According to this page Tubes and Transformers for 300B's you need 5V@2A and 6.3V@4A

I would use taps 3 and 4 for the above, one for the 6.3V (no need for CT) and the other for the 5V, or just use tap #1 above for the 5V

Tap #2 above is center tapped (not needed for 300B operation) and only has 3A current rating.

I just fused the mains coming in but you could fuse your B+.........whatever you do, don't fuse the bias voltage.....

My umbilical cable was a piece of leftover multi-conductor cable from another project but you can easily assemble one from individual wires; be sure to use 600V rated conductors for the B+ wires if you go that route.

The umbilical braid is easy to get from typical parts suppliers like Mouser, Digikey, etc.
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Old 8th June 2013, 01:22 PM   #58
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I have connected the James transformer to 240V
I measured 350V, 6.1V on the 6.3V, 4.4V on the 5V. Is that normal?

On the main 350 CT where do I connected the 0? To the E tap?

Thanks
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Old 8th June 2013, 02:26 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranhaber View Post
I have connected the James transformer to 240V
I measured 350V, 6.1V on the 6.3V, 4.4V on the 5V. Is that normal?

On the main 350 CT where do I connected the 0? To the E tap?

Thanks
Ranhaber: Are the measured voltages above when the transformer is not connected to anything ie "unloaded"?. Your filament voltages are too low, especially the 5V tap.

If the transformer has a 220V primary tap, use that instead of the 240V tap and tell us what you get for the above voltages.

Looking at my James 9611, the E terminal on the transformer is a case ground; different than the CT. I'm a bit unclear on your last question.....
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Old 8th June 2013, 07:48 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boywonder View Post
Ranhaber: Are the measured voltages above when the transformer is not connected to anything ie "unloaded"?. Your filament voltages are too low, especially the 5V tap.

If the transformer has a 220V primary tap, use that instead of the 240V tap and tell us what you get for the above voltages.

Looking at my James 9611, the E terminal on the transformer is a case ground; different than the CT. I'm a bit unclear on your last question.....
The transformer is unloaded.
1) 0-5V 6A - 4.5V
2) 0-CT-6.3V 3A - 6.2V
3) 0-5-6.3V 4A - 4.5V 6.2V
4) 0-5-6.3V 4A - 4.5V 6.2V
All measured in AC mode.
The transformer work on 230VAC my region works on 220VAC.

We have 0,220VAC, Ground so what do I connect to 0 and what to Ground?

Can I connect all 0V on all the taps?

I saw the you connected the 0ohm of output transformer to Ground, why?

One last question, when I used 500mA slow blow fuse it blow, why? (After that I used 1A,OK)

thanks
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