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Old 21st February 2013, 12:37 PM   #21
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this is the link to the Edcor choke:
EDCOR - CXC125-10H-200mA

A few more questions:
1) Can i use 1N5408 instead of the FRED too?

2) About C5, i have two ClarityCap TC 700VDC 110uf/220uf with ESR 1.6/1.3mOhm.
are they OK for C5 (i heard Solen are good) ?
if yes, shell i use only one of them or both in parallel ?

3) i have one obligatto film oil cap 6.8uf, is he OK for C4 ?

4) i have only metal film resistor, can i use them all for the TSE ?

Thanks
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Old 21st February 2013, 03:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranhaber View Post
this is the link to the Edcor choke:
EDCOR - CXC125-10H-200mA

A few more questions:
1) Can i use 1N5408 instead of the FRED too?

2) About C5, i have two ClarityCap TC 700VDC 110uf/220uf with ESR 1.6/1.3mOhm.
are they OK for C5 (i heard Solen are good) ?
if yes, shell i use only one of them or both in parallel ?

3) i have one obligatto film oil cap 6.8uf, is he OK for C4 ?

4) i have only metal film resistor, can i use them all for the TSE ?

Thanks
Ranhaber: Yes, the 700V rated claritycaps will work fine for C5. Are they film caps? They must be huge...

You can run them separate or in parallel......stick both values in your PSUD model and look at the ripple V.

6.8uf is probably fine for C4. If your target B+ is a little low you can increase this value up to around 33uf or so. Beyond that, the 5AR4 may not be too happy.


The 1N5408 rectifiers will be very marginal in place of the FREDs with a 360-0-360V secondary. They are 1000V rated parts and for FWCT rectification, the rectifier voltage rating needs to be at least 2*sqrt2*transformer secondary voltage.

360*2*1.41=1018V

330*2*1.41=933V

I would get some 1200V FREDs like the Fairchild stealth part or equivalent.

ISL9R8120P2 Fairchild Semiconductor | ISL9R8120P2-ND | DigiKey

Yes, metal films resistors are fine for the amp. The one place you may want to use carbon comp resistors is for the 5842 grid stoppers. These should be non-inductive and carbon comp fits the bill here.

Thanks for the Edcor link. I see that they have updated their website and have included the DCR for the chokes under the specifications tab. They also now offer black or silver painted endbells (finally!! yeah!).

Unforch, they do not list the DCR for the power transformer windings yet, that would be helpful for modeling.
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Old 21st February 2013, 03:25 PM   #23
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Ranhaber: I don't have a feel for your budget for this amp, but if it were me, I would save the $$ that you would spend on fancy caps and apply those funds to output transformers. Or if the budget allows, keep the fancy caps and upgrade the transformers; the TSE is worth it.

My 300B version is using the James 6123 output transformers and it's the amp that spends the most time in my system. The 6123 has multiple secondary taps, allowing easy conversion to 300B, 2A3, 45 output tubes. If you get the Edcor XPWR131-240, that has multiple secondaries that also allows easy conversion for the above tubes.

The James iron is top notch, potted, and comes in black or champagne color. There are other choices for top quality output iron as well.

This is just a suggestion, and all-Edcor TSE I'm sure will sound great......

My 45 version of this amp is using electraprint output iron...also another good choice.
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Old 3rd March 2013, 01:26 PM   #24
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thanks for the advice...
I toke it...

but when i go, i go all the wayClick the image to open in full size.

now i just have to wait for all the transformers to arraived.

Hear is the list of what i bought.
If you think i have to take consideration about someting please inform me.
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File Type: jpg james list.jpg (164.7 KB, 96 views)
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Old 3rd March 2013, 02:22 PM   #25
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Default Top shelf iron

Very Nice! The 9612 is beefy (350ma!), but it should work with a little cap and resistor tweaking.

You will probably need to adjust the first cap value to dial in the B+, as it will probably be over 400V using the 350V taps.

The 10H choke is an excellent choice.

All that iron is big and heavy, so plan for that on your chassis.

Those prices look really good. JS-6123HS for $82US seems way too low.....

BTW: The link in your post above doesn't work......

Last edited by boywonder; 3rd March 2013 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 3rd March 2013, 03:00 PM   #26
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How can the 350mA effect the design?

If i use the PSUII a 8.2uf cap for C4 give me arounf 390V with the 350V tap.

I bought from this site:
http://jianshin.myweb.hinet.net/

I think it is the factory site. nice humen response.
If some one use it, please say Ran Haber sent you
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Old 3rd March 2013, 09:36 PM   #27
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Ran: Since the transformer has a current rating of 350ma, it will be lightly loaded at around 175ma or so (140ma for your 300B's + the 5842's and the mosfets). That means it's output voltage will be a little high depending on the transformer's voltage regulation. (usually 5-10%).

The transformer will have very low DCR since it's rated for 350ma, the end effect will be that your B+ may end up a little high. To see this effect in PSUD, reduce the resistance of the transformer to 20 ohms, or 10 ohms and see what it does to the B+.

It will be fine, especially if you want to run the 300B's at 400V. At 175ma current draw, it will be loafing along and stay cool as a cucumber. Just for fun, I went over to the James Audio site and looked around at the power transformers. I think the one you picked is the best choice, and that package of iron you have ordered will make a great 300B TSE.

If you want, you can tailor your B+ voltage by changing the value of the first cap in the PS. Pick up a couple of inexpensive no-name 600V rated film caps between about 2.7uf and 6.8uf to try out when you build the amp.

I have a 9611 power transformer here, and it is big! Plan for some space for these transformers and choke.

$164 for a pair of JS-6123's is a great price, it's shipping from Asia that is a killer.

I think you will be very happy with this choice. Here are a couple of pics of my 300B TSE:

I think if I had a fancy potted James power transformer I would have built everything on one chassis.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Tubelab SE 1.jpg (196.2 KB, 141 views)
File Type: jpg Tubelab SE 2.jpg (192.3 KB, 109 views)

Last edited by boywonder; 3rd March 2013 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 3rd March 2013, 09:53 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boywonder View Post
I would have built everything on one chassis.
But then when you try to move it around or reposition... Unless you have a real strong back.
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Old 3rd March 2013, 10:28 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evenharmonics View Post
But then when you try to move it around or reposition... Unless you have a real strong back.
I'm 33 years old with a black belt degree so... just a day in the jim

I just love your amp


I can't find a store to buy a dual heat sink ( without pay to much for shipment),
Does someone know one, or sell some, or have a different idea?
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Old 3rd March 2013, 11:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranhaber View Post
I can't find a store to buy a dual heat sink ( without pay to much for shipment),
Does someone know one, or sell some, or have a different idea?
Yes, you can use old CPU heat sinks from a PC or video card, or any organ donor with a suitable heat sink, like a PC power supply (lot's of good stuff in there) that's what I ended up with, along with the dual stamped heat sink on the filament regulator.

I chop them up on my table saw using a non-ferrous metal blade. That non-ferrous metal blade has come in very handy when building chassis also.

The more heat sink that you can squeeze in there the better. I have my board populated on the bottom (tube sockets are the only thing on top); in that case you want a lot of heat sinking if you can fit it as the air flow can be a bit restricted.

It's funny, I have kept these pictures on my hard drive since others have asked similar questions, and they come in pretty handy.
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File Type: jpg tubelab SE heat sinks.JPG (181.0 KB, 108 views)
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