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Old 5th February 2013, 12:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillEpstein View Post
I bought 2 of these, with 1 in my SSE; they behave electrically just as 5AR4s.

5AR4 Rectifier Tube Mil Philips Mislabeled 5V4GA | eBay

Also, Eli Duttman posted this schematic for new production 5AR4s for keeping them alive
The updated SSE pcb's now include this - D3, D4 and TR1
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Old 5th February 2013, 03:45 PM   #22
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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It appears that ranhaber is building a TSE, not an SSE. I don't think a modern 5AR4 will have any trouble in a typical TSE build.

On the subject of SSEs, I've had a JJ in mine for years and it's been holding up great. I do have a CL-90 and a CL-140 in my build, though.
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Old 6th February 2013, 11:45 AM   #23
rock12 is offline rock12  United States
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on the new boards where thermisitor cl-140 goes I was going to substitute a cl-90 since I have one. For some reason these holes are smaller and the cl-90 will not fit. I would like to avoid any more shipping fees if possible thoughts?
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Old 6th February 2013, 12:13 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by rock12 View Post
on the new boards where thermisitor cl-140 goes I was going to substitute a cl-90 since I have one. For some reason these holes are smaller and the cl-90 will not fit. I would like to avoid any more shipping fees if possible thoughts?
The leads on the cl-140 will be the same thickness. You can clip two pieces
from the leads of a spare resistor or other similar wire and solder them on
to the leads of the thermistor. You should probably shorten the leads of the
thermistor before soldering the pieces.
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Old 6th February 2013, 12:38 PM   #25
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rock12 View Post
on the new boards where thermisitor cl-140 goes I was going to substitute a cl-90 since I have one. For some reason these holes are smaller and the cl-90 will not fit. I would like to avoid any more shipping fees if possible thoughts?
The CL-90 is a higher-current part, so the leads are larger. Personally, I would mount it off-board rather then try to shove it into the PCB. It would go in series between the center tap of the HT winding and the PCB. It's not the ideal rating for this position, though, because it will not get not enough. It is better off in series with the entire amp. That said, I had a CL-90 in this position originally and I coped with the problem by wrapping the part in heat shrink tubing to let it get up to temp.

Last edited by rknize; 6th February 2013 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 6th February 2013, 12:50 PM   #26
rock12 is offline rock12  United States
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Thanks rknize for the info. I had ordered the cl-90 to attach off board from other posts then found I had the newer board. I will do like you advise but will also order the cl-140. Do it right the first time someone smarter than me said once
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Old 6th February 2013, 01:21 PM   #27
neomat is offline neomat  France
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I can send you a CL-140, I got 2 but need only one. Maybe you can order it on ebay US, where I had mine.
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Old 7th February 2013, 10:08 AM   #28
rock12 is offline rock12  United States
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thank you neomat for the offer but I can get one here for a buck.47
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Old 8th February 2013, 12:31 PM   #29
neomat is offline neomat  France
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Here are some pictures of my build. I just soldered tube socket and R17/R27 on the top side. Everything else is on bottom side. I've a design in mind, but I will ask some questions about the feasibility...

After having soldered resistors :
Click the image to open in full size.

Binding posts used for R17 and R27 :
Click the image to open in full size.

I have thermal paste from a previous project, so I added it :
Click the image to open in full size.

And a global view :
Click the image to open in full size.

I soldered tube socket and connectors yesterday, pictures to be done...
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Old 9th February 2013, 10:37 AM   #30
rock12 is offline rock12  United States
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nice build! I put my binding post on the same side as caps for easier access but and had to raise them up a bit for bottum clearance on the resistor
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