UL/Triode -- CFB/Disable NOOB

[squiffiness]

Switch type question to all in TubeLab land.

For the SimpleSE UL/Triode mode switch and the CFB/Disable switch, I see a few citations in the forum talking about simple DPDT toggles (On-On).

Since one would never switch 'em "hot" to avoid potential screaming and instant singeing of digits, do experienced SimpleSE builders have any recommended DPDT toggles, rockers, paddles or pushbuttons they've used in their builds?

Calling in from Canada, so my best options are Mouser, DigiKey and PartsConnexion.

Recommended part no's would be much appreciated as I am finalizing a BOM.

Squiff

 

[rknize]

I've just used standard toggle switches. The body of the switch is grounded to the chassis. So if something did go wrong, my fingers would fair fine. Although the switches are dealing in voltages somewhat higher than rated, they are not actually *switching* those voltages. In other words, the contacts do not see those voltages across them. The large voltage potential exists between the contacts and the switch's body. Since most switches are spec'ed for 250VAC line voltages and have to handle spikes and so forth, it's generally not a problem.

UL/Triode switch: one side leads to the plate end of the OPT and the other to the UL tap on the OPT. The difference in voltage here is on the order of tens of volts, not hundreds.

CFB switch: one side is grounded and the other on the secondary of the OPT (which only sees a few volts).

Rectifier switch: since both the tube and silicon rectifiers are always live, the contacts only bypasses the tube rectifier. They only have to cope with the difference between the two: a few 10s of volts.

Of course, I am probably required to add: do not use these switches outside of their specified rating! Doing so can endanger your health! etc etc

 

[squiffiness]

I've just used standard toggle switches. The body of the switch is grounded to the chassis. So if something did go wrong, my fingers would fair fine. Although the switches are dealing in voltages somewhat higher than rated, they are not actually *switching* those voltages.

I had settled on NEVER switching these with the amp mains on.

I guess what I was asking was partly about rating, which you've answered nicely and the specific type. So DPDT and I will take a higher voltage rating to limit the chances of anything internally jumping around from one side to the other (i.e. channel to channel since we're carrying both left and right).

These are just 2-position toggles you are using from what I can see from the TubeLab schematic (i.e. On-On) right?

I can't see any obvious reason why these might be 3-position (i.e. On-Off-On).