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Old 25th July 2011, 08:37 PM   #11
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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The gate of the MOSFETs might need to have their gate stoppers moved close to the FET lead as well. They can oscillate too.
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Old 25th July 2011, 10:25 PM   #12
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The gate of the MOSFETs might need to have their gate stoppers moved close to the FET lead as well. They can oscillate too.
Those look to be fine mounted on the bottom, if I can get them on the other side of the heat sink without the Q2/Q2 U2/U3 heatsinks colliding.
We'll see, thanks for the hint, I didn't know about the oscillation risk for the MOSFETs!
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Old 26th July 2011, 05:11 PM   #13
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The reason for the question is that I'd like to put it in a chassis such that the tube sockets are flush with the top.

Thanks for your thoughts!
Stefan
I built my Tubelab SE with the sockets flush with the top, and they are soldered directly to the PCB..........the PCB is hanging from the top deck with threaded standoffs. Everything except the tube sockets is mounted on the bottom of the PCB. The only thing that's a bit tricky is the filament regulator; just bend the leads and triple-check.

If your punched holes are a little off, you can still do this technique with slightly oversized chassis holes. When making them oversized, you have another chance to get them lined up properly, and the extra clearance will help with ventilation. My sockets fit quite snug so I added a couple of vent slots reasonably near the heat sinks. The amp has been working fine for months, no overheating of the regulator with 300B's.
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Old 26th July 2011, 10:42 PM   #14
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Some builders have had success mounting the tube sockets off board, others have built radio and TV jammers. The 5842 / mosfet combination will oscillate if given a tiny chance. I would put the grid stopper right at the grid pin of the 5842 socket.

I have sometimes made socket extensions using brass tubing from a hobby shop to elevate the socket above the PC board. The tubing is covered with heat shrink tubing in this photo.
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Old 27th July 2011, 04:16 PM   #15
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<...> others have built radio and TV jammers.<..>


I have been convinced. I will go with on-top sockets, on-back components and make the rest fit using the tips you all gave me.

THANK YOU!
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