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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Apologies, this may be a bit vague!
Do I just follow the wiring guide that Tubelab has posted on his website (for wiring in the volume control) and stop thinking about it too much? I'm new to this and want to understand what I'm doing, rather than just doing it. I applied that mindset to the volume control wiring, and went probing with Mr Multimeter to measure resistances etc. The resistance values made sense, I got short circuit on the the black wires (input to output) and variable between short and 100k Ohm on the red wires (again, input to output) and that made sense to me. Then I looked more closely at the wiring diagram and realised that the channels seem to be mixed up. So I stuck a 1.5V battery across the input of one channel, expecting to measure between 0V and 1.5V at the output depending on pot rotation. I got nothing at all, and now my brain has fried. Sorry for the ramble. Does anyone see anything blatantly obvious? Should I just wire it as instructed and stop asking questions of it? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Hello,
Just follow the wiring as stated on the website and you should be fine. If not, then let me see if I can help. I am right handed,so, I want my volume pot fully open(connected, input of the RCA to the input on the board) CW and conversely, Short(grounded) at fully CCW. Having said that, holding the volume pot in front of you, terminal pins directly on front with the pole of the wipers pointing upward(bottom of the case pointing downward), chose arbitrarily which one of the two rows is for the L and for the R channel. So you have A B C D E F B and E are the wipers and ABC for the R & L channels for example. 1.)Connect + wire (red) from RCA + to A, connect another red wire to B then -------> input R channel of the board. 2.)Connect two wires(black) on C. One goes to the -(negative) of the R channel RCA, the other to the negative of the R channel input of the board. Repeat for DEF for the L channel. 3.) Follow the orientation of the input board signal and grounding layput as specified on the wiring diagram. Hope this helps. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Thanks, that helps a lot.
Your explanation ties in with what I had in mind, and I proved it works this morning by putting a 1.5V battery across the input and measured the output from 0V to 1.5V as the pot is turned. The niggling thing is that it seems at odds with Tubelab's wiring diagram here: Wiring Diagrams If you look at any of the diagrams about 1/3 to 1/2 way down the page, you see that for one particular 'channel' of the pot, the black and red signal wires come from different input jacks. For your SSE did you do what you've described above or follow the wiring diagram, as they seem totally different to me? Last edited by Horsebox; 13th April 2011 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Cleaned up formatting. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
Technically the ground and hot wires should be from the same jack, especially if sheilded wire is used. Since the grounds are all connected together at the PC board it doesn't make much difference.
__________________
Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Thanks tubelab.com; no apology needed, just happy there's a simple explanation.
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