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R3 soldering pad ruined

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Today I started soldering Simple SE PCB and R3 soldering didn't go well so I tried to desolder with a braid. I managed to get the resistor out but the pad has solder stuck to it so badly that new solder won't stick to it anymore and desoldering braid just made it worse..I mean the pad won't heat up or won't melt new solder which is being applied.

The Question: To avoid ordering new PCB can I solder C3 and R3 together into the C3 hole? I see in schematic and the PCB they are parallel. Or I'll have to order new PCB and resistors :(
 
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You have another option:

Tin your iron with a large glop of solder, then quickly apply the glop and the iron to the damaged pad. If you move quickly enough the new solder will melt the old solder. Then immediately apply the braid.

The trick is to get the new solder down before most of its flux burns off.
It's a useful skill to acquire, and one I needed to learn very quickly - having two left hands
 
Is the hole open or filled with solder? Are both sides of the board gummed up? If one side is still good you can maybe try soldering on that side, and hopefully the new solder will mix with the old to melt it. Fresh solder helps with heat transfer and by adding flux. Which is also another thing to try: go get some flux. Ratshack has a tub for cheap (make sure you get rosin flux, not acid). I never used extra flux until I started making mistakes... which means it was like the second thing I bought. It makes many headaches go away. Apply some to the stubbourn solder and you should be able to get it to move. When wicking up large amounts of solder from big pads/parts I find the tiny bit of flux in my braid isn't enough to get it to pick up.
 
If the pad and the copper trace to it are still glued to the PCB you should be able to get back to square one. If the pad becomes unglued, all is not lost. Just be careful and dont apply the heat for too long, too long will break the adhesion between copper and PCB material.
 
You have another option:
Tin your iron with a large glop of solder, then quickly apply the glop and the iron to the damaged pad. If you move quickly enough the new solder will melt the old solder. Then immediately apply the braid.

I tried that yesterday and it did clean the pads. But the pads no longer melt the solder being added. I guess the pads dealt with so much heat and probably are oxidized.

I will have to solder C3 and R3 into C3 hole. Hopefully the prolonged heat application sessions didn't oxidize the neighboring C3 pads.
 
Have you tried cleaning the pad with isopropyl? Chances are it's not that the pads are oxidized, but that there is a layer of burnt flux insulating the pad.

George's boards are remarkably resilient with mistakes. I've had to make a few corrections/changes, and some of them I didn't do so well (desoldering octal sockets sucks. or I suck at it. or both.) and I've never lifted a pad, nor did I have trouble with resoldering after cleaning. The only evidence is some burnt soldermask.
 
I've got to ask how the board got into such a condition in the first place. Is the soldering iron too hot or too cold? If the iron is not temperature controlled, is the wattage at least appropriate for this kind of work? Is the tip poorly tinned or in otherwise poor condition? Would it be worthwhile to spend a little time practicing on a junk circuit board, and try putting random things on and taking them off again?
 
A little tip George(tubelab) gave me on how to remedy a lifted solder pad....worked like a charm.
I have a few lifted pads on my board since some components have been changed several times. Many of the component holes on this board are used to make a connection from the top to the bottom of the board. Often that connection gets broken when a pad is lifted. In this case it may be necessary to solder tha component on both sides of the board. Of course it is impossible to solder the leads on the top side of the board on some components like C27. In this case I scrape some resist off of the runner on the top side, solder a thin bare wire (one strand from line cord or speaker wire) to the bare copper, run the wire through the component hole, insert the component, then solder the component and the wire to the remaining trace on the bottom side. Verify continuity before powering up the board.
 
I did use solder with flux(WBT leaded). I used adjustable heat soldering station with new tips since I just bought the whole thing. Temp was set at recommended 600F and all other resistors soldered well within 5-7 seconds. With R3 the I needed to desolder it and I did that with braid(newly bought containing flux), but I spent too much time make sure pads are residue free. Pads look ok now but the solder is not melting on pads.

I'll find some 91% isopropyl from drugstore..will that be ok or you guys recommend some other alcohol? if so where to get it?
 
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I did use solder with flux(WBT leaded). I used adjustable heat soldering station with new tips since I just bought the whole thing. Temp was set at recommended 600F and all other resistors soldered well within 5-7 seconds.

That all sounds well and good.

With R3 the I needed to desolder it and I did that with braid(newly bought containing flux), but I spent too much time make sure pads are residue free. Pads look ok now but the solder is not melting on pads.

Is it possible you actually removed the whole pad from the board? Try setting your multimeter to test for continuity, and touch the probes across the problem pad and the C3 hole.

Is this the end of R3 that lands on the big common ground plane? If so, maybe you could solder the resistor from the top side. Otherwise you could just stick the tail of the resistor through the hole and bend it over to C3. If you haven't already trimmed C3, you can even twist the ends together a bit.
 
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12AT7 not glowing

So I connected R3 with C3 by bending tail of C3 with R3 tail. Today I finished the PCB and since my order from Edcor arrived I decided to turn it on today.

There was no music and the 12AT7 was not glowing but all other tubes including 5AR4 were glowing. I used another 12AT7 and a 12AU7 in but none of them glowed. The both Ruby 6L6GC glowed but both of their inside bottom plates had a tiny bit blue shine. I'm using 820 ohm bias resistor and an Edcor XPWR035. I checked and double checked PT and OPT wiring. The PCB was double checked every time after each part was soldered on.

My Edcor XPWR035 has 3.15v/3.15v secondary wires coming out with 120v/120v primaries, while their picture and schematic on webpage have all secondary wires coming out from one side and two 120v wires from another side of transformer. I don't know if this is their mistake and causing the problem.

http://www.edcorusa.com/products/628-xpwr035_120.aspx

Please help!
 
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There was no music and the 12AT7 was not glowing...

The 12AT7 should be glowing at each of the cathodes, from its heaters. If you can't see a orange glow at each heater, you will get no music. Can you pull the tube and check for 6.3V heater voltage at pins 4 and 5? It would be safest to keep the rectifier tube out while performing this check.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Simple SE/Checkout/volt01.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Simple SE/Checkout/volt02.jpg
 
Ty, the measurement at pins 4 and 5 reads 3.4v. I took out 5AR4 as you said but the 6l6s were in and OPTs were connected to PCB too. I never used multimeter before so correct me if the method I used is wrong because the ground lead was pinned to one the grounds on the PCB(as shown on tubelab's "wiring diagrams" page.
 
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