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| Tubelab Discussion and support of Tubelab products, prototypes and experiments |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Los Angeles
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I have an Antek/Par-metal case 12inx12x3, so I thought it would be perfect for SimpleSe w/ an Antek transformer. Well space looks a little tight. With OPTs on either side, AC wiring will be blocked or compromised I think. And that Obbligato oil cap is MUCH bigger than I expected and I'm willing to leave it out.
Any advice on layout? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Victoria, BC
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Are you putting everything inside the case?
Is this a straight power amp, or will you have a volume control, input switching on the front panel? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Los Angeles
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Los Angeles
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I'm thinking this layout might work best, allowing input and speaker wiring clearance - but are the OPTs too close together? If this isn't feasible then I will have to mount either the opts or PT on top...
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Newark, DE
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Quote:
![]() http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1100376.jpg http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1100373.jpg |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Hello
If I see it well you use 6L6GC tubes in SE mode. Where did you purchased the PC board? I'm planing after more than 15 years to build one tube amp with these tubes. These schematic from a Japanese site, I see on the Ebay some good OP transformers from Vancouver. Do you think after more than 15 years for first project these would be OK to me? Some of my friend wrote ST not the easiest tube amp to restart again. That is the reason why I ask for the PC board. Any advise are welcome. I do not want to hijack these project but not to many 6L6GC amp I can see on the forum. Thanks Greetings gabor |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Newark, DE
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Ordering instructions for "The Simple SE" are here:
PCB_ordering |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Victoria, BC
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Quote:
I can't see your speaker terminals - are they going to be on the back? Do I see 2 sets of input RCAs on the back? Ty's inputs look to be at the front, next to the preamp section (good). And your volume pot is recessed into the front panel? I wouldn't worry too much about putting the OPTs close together - keeping the hum away from the input lines is more important. (Toroids aren't quite so bad as 'regular' transformers in the hum dept., I hear?) What you want to avoid, IMO, is a mess (aka rats-nest) of wires crisscrossing - so the board orientation is important as well. If you have a shop, you could consider making a 'transformer box' for the top rear area of the chassis- to give yourself more room to arrange things below...I'm assuming the bottom plate is removable. Fun, isn't it? John |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Newark, DE
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Quote:
Also, always remember never to mount a toroid through the center with a bolt that connects one side of the chassis to the other. You create a shorted turn, and that does really bad things. Use one of those insulating giant rubber washer things they usually include in the toroid mounting kit. |
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