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Old 19th February 2011, 08:43 PM   #1
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Default Help w/ SimpleSe Layout

I have an Antek/Par-metal case 12inx12x3, so I thought it would be perfect for SimpleSe w/ an Antek transformer. Well space looks a little tight. With OPTs on either side, AC wiring will be blocked or compromised I think. And that Obbligato oil cap is MUCH bigger than I expected and I'm willing to leave it out.

Any advice on layout?
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Old 19th February 2011, 09:37 PM   #2
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Are you putting everything inside the case?
Is this a straight power amp, or will you have a volume control, input switching on the front panel?
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Old 19th February 2011, 09:43 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by VictoriaGuy View Post
Are you putting everything inside the case?
Is this a straight power amp, or will you have a volume control, input switching on the front panel?
Yep, the goal is everything inside w/ volume control etc...
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Old 19th February 2011, 11:36 PM   #4
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I'm thinking this layout might work best, allowing input and speaker wiring clearance - but are the OPTs too close together? If this isn't feasible then I will have to mount either the opts or PT on top...
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Old 20th February 2011, 12:09 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wushuliu View Post
I'm thinking this layout might work best, allowing input and speaker wiring clearance - but are the OPTs too close together?
That's fairly close to the layout I used, except everything on mine sticks out the top of the chassis. I've never heard any problem from the OPTs being close to each other, and they are nearly kissing on mine. My chassis plate is just a little bigger than 9" x 14", if I remember correctly.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1100376.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1100373.jpg
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Old 20th February 2011, 12:23 AM   #6
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Default 6L6GC?

Hello

If I see it well you use 6L6GC tubes in SE mode.
Where did you purchased the PC board?
I'm planing after more than 15 years to build one tube amp with these tubes.
These schematic from a Japanese site, I see on the Ebay some good OP transformers from Vancouver.
Do you think after more than 15 years for first project these would be OK to me?
Some of my friend wrote ST not the easiest tube amp to restart again.
That is the reason why I ask for the PC board.
Any advise are welcome. I do not want to hijack these project but not to many 6L6GC amp I can see on the forum.
Thanks
Greetings gabor
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Old 20th February 2011, 12:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaborbela View Post
Where did you purchased the PC board?
Ordering instructions for "The Simple SE" are here:
PCB_ordering
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Old 20th February 2011, 12:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ty_Bower View Post
That's fairly close to the layout I used, except everything on mine sticks out the top of the chassis. I've never heard any problem from the OPTs being close to each other, and they are nearly kissing on mine. My chassis plate is just a little bigger than 9" x 14", if I remember correctly.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1100376.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1100373.jpg
Cool build. Thanks Ty.
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Old 20th February 2011, 01:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wushuliu View Post
I'm thinking this layout might work best, allowing input and speaker wiring clearance - but are the OPTs too close together? If this isn't feasible then I will have to mount either the opts or PT on top...
I usually try to keep the heavy-duty AC away from the inputs and outputs as much as possible. Since the power switch is up at the front, you could consider putting the toroid up there - run the AC line up the corner of the chassis...then the cap, and then the OPTs near the back ?

I can't see your speaker terminals - are they going to be on the back? Do I see 2 sets of input RCAs on the back? Ty's inputs look to be at the front, next to the preamp section (good). And your volume pot is recessed into the front panel?
I wouldn't worry too much about putting the OPTs close together - keeping the hum away from the input lines is more important. (Toroids aren't quite so bad as 'regular' transformers in the hum dept., I hear?)

What you want to avoid, IMO, is a mess (aka rats-nest) of wires crisscrossing - so the board orientation is important as well.

If you have a shop, you could consider making a 'transformer box' for the top rear area of the chassis- to give yourself more room to arrange things below...I'm assuming the bottom plate is removable.

Fun, isn't it?
John
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Old 20th February 2011, 01:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VictoriaGuy View Post
Toroids aren't quite so bad as 'regular' transformers in the hum dept., I hear?
It's my understanding that toriods tend to be remarkably well behaved (with regards to stray emission) for anything that is off to the sides. In the direction of their axis, things can get rather nasty. In other words, don't "point" the center of the toriod at anything you want to be quiet.

Also, always remember never to mount a toroid through the center with a bolt that connects one side of the chassis to the other. You create a shorted turn, and that does really bad things. Use one of those insulating giant rubber washer things they usually include in the toroid mounting kit.
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