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| Tubelab Discussion and support of Tubelab products, prototypes and experiments |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sacramento
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Hello Fellow Simple SE DIYers,
Like many of you I have a collection of parts in my garage and I need some tunes when I am working at my bench. Just single end tunes is all I need. Has anyone hooked up one of those ten pound power transformers that George found on e-bay for $15 to a Simple SE amplifier? The power transformer has 6.3 volt taps. Can I use one of those taps plus a resistor to heat up the 5 volt heater of the rectifier? I am sure that it can be done. Has anyone worked out what value of resistor? What pair of leads? My estimation is 6.3 – 5 = 1.3 volt drop at 2 amps gets 0.66 ohms. E/I = Ohms DT All just for fun! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sacramento
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Hello,
Too late to edit. As Ty_Bower points out in the other thread about the ten pounder there is no center tap to operate the tube rectifier. DT Too much fun! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Brisbane QLD
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No centre tap, but you could use a hybrid rectifier, a tube rectifier plus 2 SS diodes, apparently works well.
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sacramento
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Quote:
I can almost recall seeing a full bridge rectifier made from a dual diode rectifier valve and two solid state diodes. No current will flow until the valve heater is hot. Is that the concept? Thank you. DT All just for fun! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Brisbane QLD
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Yes, here is a drawing, 4th pic down the page.
The Valve Wizard |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
Pure conjecture at this point...until I actually try it: Install the SS diodes BACKWARDS. Run a jumper from the SW1 terminal closest to the front of the board (the diodes common) to one of the ground terminals at T1-RED-YEL. This creates the SS part of the hybrid bridge. Add a resistor in series with one of the 6.3 volt secondaries and connect it to the T1-YEL terminals. This should result in a B+ in the 325 to 360 volt range. This should work with the usual tubes and a 3K ohm OPT, or a set of 6V6's and a 5 or 6K OPT.
__________________
Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Like the man usually says.....do you want the good news first...or the bad news.
Good news: After changing a few parts in a dead SSE board (how did I blow a 12AT7) it is now live. I removed the SS diodes, turned them around, and reinstalled them. I used a 0.8 ohm 7 watt resistor to feed the 5AR4. I wired it up just like described above and flipped the switch. No boom, no smoke. Bad news: My estimates for the B+ were higher than I really get. Using a Chinese 5AR4 I get 285 volts of B+ under load. 5AR4 heater is 5.05 volts. Now 285 volts isn't going to rock the world using any tube that will fit in the board. So I just stuffed in some vintage smoked glass RCA 6V6GT's wired them for triode and let both watts rip.
__________________
Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sacramento
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Quote:
The witches and goblins are thick at my door. Happy Halloween to you. That is a very handsome 0.8R resistor. I hope that you don’t think I was being an Oskar the Grouch. Are those Electra Print output transformers? I bet they sounds nice. I can see some single end tuned for my garage. Today I have been trying my hand at using a new router to cut driver (MTM) openings for open baffle speakers. Thanks for your efforts today! DT All just for fun! |
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#9 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sacramento
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Hello All,
I am considering applying an off board Full Wave Bridge Rectified and connecting the rectified DC at the SW1 terminal. Does anyone see any potential issues? I am also considering adapting some old school real pentodes to play with triode, pentode and UL versions (version for a day) of this amplifier. I have a couple of NOS JAN 837’s. Any thoughts or fun to add (yes the heaters will need separate 12 volt hookup)? DT All just for fun! |
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