Simple SE, auxiliary cap?

Ty_Bower · 30th August 2010, 09:24 PM

I've got a GE branded "DIELEKTROL" capacitor, salvaged from a dead microwave oven. It says it is 1.6 uF, rated for 1250 VAC. Is this thing safe to stick into my Simple SE? I don't know if it is rated for continuous duty or not (motor run vs. motor start). I'd imagine a microwave oven could be left running for an hour or more (cooking the Thanksgiving turkey? eww.) so in all likelihood it would be safe. The voltage rating is certainly high enough. Is 1.6 uF enough capacitance to hear any benefit in the Simple SE power supply? I've got to imagine this thing has a ridiculously low ESR. Physically, it is a rather good size (3.5" tall by 2.25" x 1.25" oval).

Any thoughts? Shall I just plug it in and see what happens?

rknize · 30th August 2010, 10:28 PM

Yes.

dr0ss · 31st August 2010, 12:00 AM

Just an FYI, motor run caps from Dayton have been popping up on sale here and there; Grainger has several on closeout for under $10 (whether you can get one depends on your local store's stock on hand), and there are several online merchants that have them with decent capacity (60+ mfd) for roughly the same price at low or no shipping.

Ty_Bower · 2nd September 2010, 02:49 AM

Well, I sorta forgot my 9"x14" chassis was kinda snug for the Simple SE and all its iron. I've got virtually no free space underneath. In a brilliant flash of stupidity, I decided to hang the cap on the outside of the chassis.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1140551.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1140548.jpg

I'm not too sure I'm happy with the thought of 450 VDC on the exposed contacts.

syyma · 2nd September 2010, 04:54 AM

Quote:

I'm not too sure I'm happy with the thought of 450 VDC on the exposed contacts.

I'll install a non-inductive cover and ground the cap's housing if I were you. Uncover HV always made me uncomfortable.

Sidney

dr0ss · 2nd September 2010, 05:14 AM

I like the day-glo zip ties.

How does it sound? Are you running it as a bypass on C1 or on C2?

David

syyma · 2nd September 2010, 06:19 AM

Quote:

non-inductive

Oops! Just a typo, non-conductive cover that's what I mean.

Sidney

Ty_Bower · 2nd September 2010, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dr0ss

How does it sound? Are you running it as a bypass on C1 or on C2?

Assuming I've wired it correctly, it is in parallel with C2. It's tough for me to evaluate any difference in sound. I've recently made a bunch of other changes in the system. I think I need to listen to it for a few days, then try unplugging it and see if it is missed.

dr0ss · 4th September 2010, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ty_Bower

Assuming I've wired it correctly, it is in parallel with C2.

It has small enough capacitance that you could probably put it instead across C1 and keep a more conventional motor run cap on C2. Assuming of course you have room on the chassis.

hartze11 · 4th January 2011, 07:18 PM

Can someone clarify the use of the auxiliary cap? I have a huge honking 50 uF motor-run cap installed, and I don't think it made much difference.

Is this primarily to filter the power supply? Would installing a larger value C2 achieve similar results? IIRC, since this is a Class A amp, there shouldn't be a lot of power supply sagging during operation....

30th August 2010, 09:24 PM	#1
Ty_Bower diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Newark, DE	Simple SE, auxiliary cap? I've got a GE branded "DIELEKTROL" capacitor, salvaged from a dead microwave oven. It says it is 1.6 uF, rated for 1250 VAC. Is this thing safe to stick into my Simple SE? I don't know if it is rated for continuous duty or not (motor run vs. motor start). I'd imagine a microwave oven could be left running for an hour or more (cooking the Thanksgiving turkey? eww.) so in all likelihood it would be safe. The voltage rating is certainly high enough. Is 1.6 uF enough capacitance to hear any benefit in the Simple SE power supply? I've got to imagine this thing has a ridiculously low ESR. Physically, it is a rather good size (3.5" tall by 2.25" x 1.25" oval). Any thoughts? Shall I just plug it in and see what happens?

30th August 2010, 10:28 PM	#2
rknize diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Chicagoland	Yes. __________________ Russ http://www.knizefamily.net/russ/cate...ics/tubeaudio/

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31st August 2010, 12:00 AM	#3
dr0ss diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2010	Just an FYI, motor run caps from Dayton have been popping up on sale here and there; Grainger has several on closeout for under $10 (whether you can get one depends on your local store's stock on hand), and there are several online merchants that have them with decent capacity (60+ mfd) for roughly the same price at low or no shipping.

2nd September 2010, 02:49 AM	#4
Ty_Bower diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Newark, DE	Well, I sorta forgot my 9"x14" chassis was kinda snug for the Simple SE and all its iron. I've got virtually no free space underneath. In a brilliant flash of stupidity, I decided to hang the cap on the outside of the chassis. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1140551.jpg http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...E/P1140548.jpg I'm not too sure I'm happy with the thought of 450 VDC on the exposed contacts.

2nd September 2010, 05:14 AM	#6
dr0ss diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2010	I like the day-glo zip ties. How does it sound? Are you running it as a bypass on C1 or on C2? David

4th January 2011, 07:18 PM	#10
hartze11 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Boulder, CO	Can someone clarify the use of the auxiliary cap? I have a huge honking 50 uF motor-run cap installed, and I don't think it made much difference. Is this primarily to filter the power supply? Would installing a larger value C2 achieve similar results? IIRC, since this is a Class A amp, there shouldn't be a lot of power supply sagging during operation....

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