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Old 27th April 2010, 01:34 PM   #1
Divad89 is offline Divad89  Denmark
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Default Questions for the parts for Simple SE

I've just received my Simple SE board, and is just about ordering all the parts to populate the board, but have some questions for some of the parts.

Could I use Jantzen Superior Z-cap 0,22 F for C11 and C21? George talks about using auricaps...

Use 1500F 16V for C10 and C20?
Use 2200F 63V for C12 and C22?

What type of fuse should I be using? Quick, Superquick? and how many ampere?
How many poles should the switches for Rectifier, mode and feedback have, 1 or 2?

I have the intention of using the Simple SE as a passive preamp too, and build in a volume control and input chooser.

But should the volume control be log or lin?
Where do I find a input chooser?

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David
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Old 27th April 2010, 03:34 PM   #2
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Divad89 View Post
Could I use Jantzen Superior Z-cap 0,22 F for C11 and C21? George talks about using auricaps...
Use whatever you want, as long as it has a voltage rating at least as high as your B+.

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Originally Posted by Divad89 View Post
Use 1500F 16V for C10 and C20?
Use 2200F 63V for C12 and C22?
Sure, as long as the base diameter and lead spacing are correct for the board.

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Originally Posted by Divad89 View Post
What type of fuse should I be using? Quick, Superquick? and how many ampere?
Start with 1.5A "slo-blo".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Divad89 View Post
How many poles should the switches for Rectifier, mode and feedback have, 1 or 2?
For the triode/UL and feedback switches, you need a double-throw pole per channel. So if you want one switch to handle both channels, you'll need two DPDT switches total. For the rectifier, a single SPST switch will do.

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But should the volume control be log or lin?
Where do I find a input chooser?
You want a log taper pot. Two of them, unless you get a stereo pot. For the input chooser...it depends what you want. If you want a rotary switch, search at Mouser or equivalent. You'll need two poles with as many positions as you wish to have inputs.
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Old 27th April 2010, 04:21 PM   #3
Divad89 is offline Divad89  Denmark
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Thanks Russ! Just got a whole lot closer to finishing the board

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Old 27th April 2010, 04:22 PM   #4
Divad89 is offline Divad89  Denmark
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I saw something about using metallized polypropylene capacitors for the motor run capacitor too, is that right?

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Old 27th April 2010, 06:04 PM   #5
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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That's right. Look on eBay for a "motor run" capacitor. They are usually film or film-in-oil. Either will do. Avoid electrolytics...that's not what you want. They are generally rated for line use and are spec'ed in VAC. We are using them for DC here, so a 370VAC motor run cap is good for at least 520VDC (multiply by 1.4).
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Old 27th April 2010, 08:33 PM   #6
Divad89 is offline Divad89  Denmark
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From what I can see at the wiring connections from tubelab's homepage, the motor run capacitor only has 2 connections. But all those I can find in my country (Denmark) are with 4

http://www.hb-elektronik.dk/images/SUE4U5.jpg

And have been able to find 2 of those motor run capacitors with 50 and 60F rated at 450V.

But is it the right motor run cap and would it work?

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David
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Old 27th April 2010, 08:51 PM   #7
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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Sometimes they are multi-section and you can connect them in parallel if you want.
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Old 28th April 2010, 06:44 AM   #8
Divad89 is offline Divad89  Denmark
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But how do I connect the motor run capacitor to the board with 4 pins?

You can also see them here:

Velleman nv
SUE50U - MOTOR RUN CAPACITOR 50F / 450V - Electronic Direct.be

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David
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Old 28th April 2010, 09:14 AM   #9
Divad89 is offline Divad89  Denmark
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By the way can I use IXCY10M45S instead of IXCP10M45S?
I know it has a different housing and pin arrangement, just because it is the only type I can find in Europe.

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Old 28th April 2010, 03:34 PM   #10
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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Multi-section caps these these are two caps in one. You would connect the two sections in parallel giving you two wires in the end.

IXCY10M45S will not work with this PCB without some creative mounting methods. That package is a surface mount part that most often ends up using the PCB as its heat sink. It's doable if you are confident in your soldering skills and can find a clip-style heat sink to hold the part on. I suspect you will be better off trying to find the TO-220 version.
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