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Questions for the parts for Simple SE

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I've just received my Simple SE board, and is just about ordering all the parts to populate the board, but have some questions for some of the parts.

Could I use Jantzen Superior Z-cap 0,22 µF for C11 and C21? George talks about using auricaps...

Use 1500µF 16V for C10 and C20?
Use 2200µF 63V for C12 and C22?

What type of fuse should I be using? Quick, Superquick? and how many ampere?
How many poles should the switches for Rectifier, mode and feedback have, 1 or 2?

I have the intention of using the Simple SE as a passive preamp too, and build in a volume control and input chooser.

But should the volume control be log or lin?
Where do I find a input chooser?

---
David
 
Could I use Jantzen Superior Z-cap 0,22 µF for C11 and C21? George talks about using auricaps...

Use whatever you want, as long as it has a voltage rating at least as high as your B+.

Use 1500µF 16V for C10 and C20?
Use 2200µF 63V for C12 and C22?

Sure, as long as the base diameter and lead spacing are correct for the board.

What type of fuse should I be using? Quick, Superquick? and how many ampere?

Start with 1.5A "slo-blo".

How many poles should the switches for Rectifier, mode and feedback have, 1 or 2?

For the triode/UL and feedback switches, you need a double-throw pole per channel. So if you want one switch to handle both channels, you'll need two DPDT switches total. For the rectifier, a single SPST switch will do.

But should the volume control be log or lin?
Where do I find a input chooser?

You want a log taper pot. Two of them, unless you get a stereo pot. For the input chooser...it depends what you want. If you want a rotary switch, search at Mouser or equivalent. You'll need two poles with as many positions as you wish to have inputs.
 
Multi-section caps these these are two caps in one. You would connect the two sections in parallel giving you two wires in the end.

IXCY10M45S will not work with this PCB without some creative mounting methods. That package is a surface mount part that most often ends up using the PCB as its heat sink. It's doable if you are confident in your soldering skills and can find a clip-style heat sink to hold the part on. I suspect you will be better off trying to find the TO-220 version.
 
I've read that blue LEDs don't tolerate AC as well as reds or greens. I'd probably use the 6.3 volt winding myself, but stick a 1N4007 diode in series and use a 10 uF cap right after it. Make sure the negative lead of the cap (and the blue LED) is at the correct potential. The Simple SE floats the heater supply above ground to reduce hum. You probably need to make your ground reference between R3 and R4 on the circuit board. As Russ said, don't forget the series resistor to limit the current to the blue LED.

Here's something to help get you started:
diytube.com :: View topic - LED 6.3v tap
 
By the way can I use IXCY10M45S instead of IXCP10M45S?
I know it has a different housing and pin arrangement, just because it is the only type I can find in Europe.

You mentioned you live in Denmark. When I lived there (10+ years ago), I used a couple of distributors in Jutland:

Aarhus Radiolager - 86246422 (yes, I still remember the phone number).
Strimola
Vejle RC Elektronik

In addition to RS Components and Farnell, of course. If they're still in business, it may be worthwhile to give them a call. Especially, Strimola was good with odd-ball parts.

Alternatively - depending on your skill level - you could build a constant current source using a couple of transistors and resistors to replace the IXYS part.

~Tom
 
Regarding the current source chip, could Supertex DN2540 be used with no modification? I know it has 400V max. instead of 450V, but the 10k serie resistor might be changed to 15k?

According to Walt Jungs articles, performance should be slightly better at high frequencies...
 
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