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Old 7th April 2010, 07:47 PM   #11
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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1) Not quite as nice (general purpose): Digi-Key - P10356-ND (Manufacturer - EEU-FC1J152)

2) Same spec at Digikey: Digi-Key - 150W-5-ND (Manufacturer - SQP500JB-150R). Similar part at Mouser: 286-150-RC Xicon Power Resistors - with Leads

3) Same part at Mouser without RoHS cert: ISL9K8120P3_Q Fairchild Semiconductor Rectifiers
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Old 7th April 2010, 07:57 PM   #12
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1) Could probably get away with one of these for C12/C22: UPW1H222MHD Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded

Someone really cleaned Mouser out of low impedance caps that would fit here.
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Old 8th April 2010, 02:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rknize View Post
Someone really cleaned Mouser out of low impedance caps that would fit here.
Ha, ha....it makes me crazy when I have the ordering pages open for 3-4 suppliers, just to get a couple of 2-bit parts!
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Old 17th July 2010, 05:33 PM   #14
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I'm locating parts for my KT-88 build. If someone has time to look up missing parts for me I'd appreciate it.

Mouser's wait list is 12wk. long for 283-150K-RC, anyone recommend a replacement for me?
Heat sinks are out at Digikey(HS 189). Allied elec. has them. Is there any other part at Mouser or digikey that can be used?

Also which part to get for R17 and R27 if I want to use KT88 tubes?

Although I'm not so keen on it, I've read someone wired the amp in a way that he can swap with other tubes(el34,6v6 etc.) without re-wiring. How is that done, I mean which part at R17 and R27 would allow that?

Last edited by imnewbie; 17th July 2010 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 20th July 2010, 05:31 AM   #15
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283-150K-RC

This part or similar part is virtually impossible to find. If any of you have it leftover from your project or just lying around then I will buy it from you. I'm locating parts before I buy the pcb from George.

Last edited by imnewbie; 20th July 2010 at 05:35 AM.
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Old 20th July 2010, 11:17 AM   #16
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Mouser's wait list is 12wk. long for 283-150K-RC, anyone recommend a replacement for me?
How about 594-5093NW150K0J?
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Old 20th July 2010, 04:03 PM   #17
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How about 594-5093NW150K0J?
What is the difference between metal film and metal oxide? Does this resistor have to be metal oxide? I recall reading somewhere few months ago that George only recommended using metal oxide at R2 and not some other material since he used some other material and was not as happy about it as using metal oxide R.

BTW does it matter that this part has higher voltage compared to original part?
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Old 20th July 2010, 05:23 PM   #18
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You can always use higher voltage parts than spec'ed. They are usually larger in size and more expensive. The plus is safety factor and usually lower ESR in caps. Never use a lower voltage part than the max voltage it will be used at, you will let the smoke monster out.
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Old 20th July 2010, 07:55 PM   #19
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Mouser's wait list is 12wk. long for 283-150K-RC, anyone recommend a replacement for me?
You can use two 2W resistors in parallel. See Another TubeLab SimpleSE Build starting at #9.

Quote:
Originally Posted by imnewbie View Post
Heat sinks are out at Digikey(HS 189). Allied elec. has them. Is there any other part at Mouser or digikey that can be used?
I used Digi-key HS279-ND

Quote:
Originally Posted by imnewbie View Post
Also which part to get for R17 and R27 if I want to use KT88 tubes?

Although I'm not so keen on it, I've read someone wired the amp in a way that he can swap with other tubes(el34,6v6 etc.) without re-wiring. How is that done, I mean which part at R17 and R27 would allow that?
See YASSE - Yet Another Simple SE Build posting #37. George also talked about this in another post but I can't find it right now.
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Old 21st July 2010, 12:31 PM   #20
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What is the difference between metal film and metal oxide? Does this resistor have to be metal oxide? I recall reading somewhere few months ago that George only recommended using metal oxide at R2...
George describes some of the differences between films and oxides here:
Simple Simple SE questions

Another difference worth mentioning is that metal oxides generally tend to be flameproof, while metal films are not as much. The Vishay datasheet doesn't seem to say anything about flameproof, only describing the part as a "power resistor". At R2, this part could be drawing about 3.3 mA at 500 VDC. That's 1.66 watts. I'd say a three watt part is the minimum here for safety. The five watt resistors are usually about an inch long. If you wanted to try to fit one of them on the board, you might be able to mount it "Japanese style", with one end down near the board and the other end sticking up in the air.

I'll keep searching and see if I can find and posts from George specifically referencing R2.
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