Howdy fellas, I've some simple SE questions...

[Rick J. B.]

Hey George and you SSE builders.

Well I pulled the trigger and ordered a couple of PCB's from George this morning. I got one for the Simple SE to start with, but also ordered one for the SE for later on.

This will be my second build so I'm obviously a newb.

Unless someone points me in a better direction I'm intending on using the Edcore iron that George mentions. CXSE25-8-5K and XPWR035.

It also looks like a good idea to use the choke & run cap (suggestions?)

I'm currently thinking of building this on a 10" x 17" x 4" Hammond case, I thought I'd put the transformers and the PCB on top of this while the run cap and choke could be inside the case. I was also thinking of using the 10" x 17" x 5.2" cage to keep kids and critters out of harms way. Plus I kind of like the old style look.

My first question is this, do you guys think everything will fit as I've described it?

Thanks much.

Rick

 

[nic6paul]

For run caps you can find them all over ebay. Just type in motor run capacitor. Look for something in the range of 80-100uf. The choke I used in my amp was a cheap triad choke from allied electronics.
Triad Magnetics - C-14X - Inductors - Passive Components - Allied Electronics

The best way I have found to see if everything will fit is either plot it on graph paper or make full size cut outs of all the parts(board, transformers cap etc) and arrange them on the counter and see what will work for you. I also used the Edcor iron and I am very pleased with it.

 

[rknize]

The 10" depth will make things a bit tight between the back of the PCB and the transformers, but it can be done. This is an annoying limitation of the Hammond chassis. They go no deeper than 10" unless you get a steel one. Then you won't be able to cover it because the deepest cover is still 10".

The 17" width may allow you to put them to either side if you wish. The Triad choke will fit under a 3" chassis, so that will not be a problem. The motor run cap is just a matter of finding an appropriate one. If you want it under the chassis, look for an oval one. Checkout "supplystuf" on eBay. They have a huge selection of motor run caps.

 

[Rick J. B.]

Hey thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it.

nic6paul, thanks for the link for the choke.

Russ, yeah, it would be nice if Hammond made cages for the larger cases. I'll hold off on ordering the case items until I have the other parts in hand. Also thanks for the lead on the run cap.

Rick

 

[nic6paul]

I have bought quite a few motor run caps from supplystuf.

 

[BillEpstein]

If you're able, try to find Aerovox motor runs. I think they sound better. There should be up to 50uF available, I paralleled 3 - 20uF for mine and they were a perfect, if tight, fit in my 4" deep Hammond case.

 

[Rick J. B.]

Bill, are the Aerovox run caps very expensive?

Also what are the copper caps you're using on your board?

Thanks for the input.

Rick

 

[Ty_Bower]

You can do something like this on a 9"x14" chassis. I'd imagine a similar layout would work fine given the larger Hammond.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Simple SE/P1100340.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Simple SE/P1100327.jpg

 

[BillEpstein]

Bill, are the Aerovox run caps very expensive?

Also what are the copper caps you're using on your board?

Aerovox: Depends on who's offering when you search E-bay, as some sellers know they're in demand for audio, most don't. My last buy was for 6 pieces of assorted values from 20uF to 50uF for about $50 with shipping.

"copper caps": those are Obbligato from Diyhifisupply, $8 each for .22uF. I prefer them to Auricaps, Kimber, Jantzen Z-Superior and Jensen tin; more detail, better soundstage and never harsh or overly sweet. JMHO, of course.

 

[Rick J. B.]

Bill, thanks. I thought I recognized those caps, Darrel at Hawthorn uses those on some of his better crossovers with good result.

Ty, thanks for the pictures, I don't know yet if the Edcor trannys I'm planning on are larger than yours or not. But I do notice that you've placed items on your top plate that I plan on putting on the ends, so maybe that will help.

I really like the idea of putting everything under a cage if I can because it facilitates an easier build and keeps curious fingers out of harms way. I don't think the wife would be very understanding if one of my projects electrocuted one of our kids.

Thanks again.

Rick

 

[rknize]

Here is how that would work in terms of depth. This is on a 12x10 chassis top plate, but you get the idea.

More here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/140978-tubelab-simple-se-big-honkin-edcors-3.html#post1783961

 

[Rick J. B.]

Dang Russ, that is kind of crowded, the Edcore's are huge!

I'm pretty much convinced they are the direction I want to go so I'll probably have to rethink my case plans.

Thanks for the picture Russ.

Rick

 

[rknize]

You bet. Their size is what spawned my thread. They are overkill for this amp, but I wouldn't change a thing. My SSE puts out amazing bass with big tubes...it's great. I have a TSE to handle the delicate stuff. But that picture is the reason why I built a custom chassis. It was a lot of work. I had thoughts of building another for a matching Simple PP, but thinking about all the milling and drilling dashes that plan immediately. I have found a slightly goofy "chassis" for the Simple PP instead, but that is another thread.

 

[nic6paul]

I also do not regret spending a few more dollars and getting the large edcors. My SSE is still my favorite amp. I do like the simple PP a lot but I dont know if it is because the SSE was my first tube amp or what but it is probably my favorite. I prefer the KT88s in mine but I enjoy bass

 

[Rick J. B.]

Paul, you sort of touched on another area I was wondering about, what power tubes are guys using. Whose KT-88 tube are you using?

Russ, how about you?

Rick

 

[nic6paul]

I am using a pair of Genalex Gold Lion Kt88s that got for a good deal off the boards here. I have also used EH 6l6gcs which I liked as well. Also for a little while I had a hand me down pair of RCA 6l6gcs but one tube was going bad. Also have tried a pair of JJ EL34 which I did not really care for all that much along with a pair of chinese 6l6gcs that liked to redplate on me any chance they got.

 

[rknize]

Which tubes? Gee it depends when you ask. At one time or another, I've tried:

- Valve Art EL34 (Shuguang)
- SED EL34
- ElectroHarmonix 6CA7
- Philips JAN 6L6GWB
- JJ 6L6GC
- Shuguang 6L6GC
- Tung-Sol 6550 (reissue)
- SED KT88
- ElectroHarmonix KT90

The SED EL34 were the best for detail. The SED KT88 and EH KT90 are my favorites for rocking hard. The 6CA7 and 6L6 are a compromise and those are in there when I just have random tunes in the background or don't feel like fiddling with it. I have a switchable bias resistor that lets me run all these tubes.

 

[nic6paul]

KT90s are one tube that I would like to try as well. I should put those on my buy list.

 

[Rick J. B.]

Whoa, you guys have rolled a bunch of different items, that's pretty cool.

Russ, later when I get a few items rounded up I'd like to quiz you on the bias switching you have on your rig, that sounds very interesting.

Paul, it's funny you mention the Gold Lions, I was eye balling those on the Tube Depot site earlier today over breakfast.

Thanks Gents.

Rick

 

[rknize]

You can run all these tubes with one set of resistors, but you have to design for the least common denominator (EL34) and so you end up running the bigger tubes at a lower bias than you'd want for them to sound their best.