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Old 28th January 2010, 12:21 PM   #11
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So $200 to $950 on average. Check.

Guess i need to do some more reading... i really want to make a edcor version of this and not just by a china amp for $200. This will be built after my 3886 is done (its soldered but no case work done yet).
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Old 28th January 2010, 03:14 PM   #12
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You don't get your money's worth with those china jobs.

You've already got a chassis so that's a huge savings for you. You can skip the terminal blocks which will save you some $, but I don't recommend it. Only if cheapness is priority. Drop the choke and that will save a good bit too. You can leave off the tube socket for the rectifier and survive OR if you insist on a tube rectifier leave out the FREDS.

Allied doesn't carry the CCS so you're probably better off going with Digikey for parts.

So lets say you get all the heavy iron from Edcor:
XPWR035 (not tested!!!): $66
Two XSE15-8-5K: $40.02

Minimum bits from Digikey $28.47 before shipping and tax
Substitutions:
Heat sinks are out of stock so I'd suggest HS106-ND as a possible alternate.
PPC150KW-3JCT-ND for R2 (150K 3W)
PPC10KW-3JCT-ND for R14,R24 (10K 3W)

Tubes and sockets from vacuumtubes.com
6BG6GA's and adapters: $36
12AT7: $10
Sockets ??? (lets say $10)

Let say $40 for shipping?

Total Parts: About $260 with PCB and decent tubes. Add $12.12 for terminal strips (highly recommended!). You'll also need some wire to hook up the output transformers. So you're just about at $300.

That's how I'd roll on a tight budget. George's recommendations are not to be taken lightly where he's thoroughly tested.

EDIT: I forgot the rectifier tube. I'd suggest a 5AR4 and a 5U4GB in case the B+ is too high with the Edcor power transformer.

Last edited by whitelabrat; 28th January 2010 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 28th January 2010, 03:34 PM   #13
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The XPWR035 is what I have in my SSE:

Tubelab Simple SE with big honkin' Edcors?

It's a perfect match with plenty of headroom if you want to run some big tubes and works great for EL34, 6L6, etc. I have also used 6BG6GAs in there from SND and they sound great...better than some of the other 6L6GCs I have.

The XPWR035 also has the exact same dimensions as the CXSE25-8-5K OPT, so they look right at home. Obviously those are more expensive than the XSE's.
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Old 28th January 2010, 03:45 PM   #14
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I have a set of those adapters for the 6bg6gas if you want for $10 for the set, not a huge savings but it will cut $10 off your bottom line for your build.

I personally used the big edcors as well and LOVE them. For my power transformer I chose edcors xpwr059
750V(375-0-375)@175mA, 50V@50mA, 6.3V(3.15-0-3.15)@6A & 5V(2.5-0-2.5)@3A

Last edited by nic6paul; 28th January 2010 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 28th January 2010, 04:00 PM   #15
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Now this is starting to get good after labrats post. 2 questions.

What power do i get out of the 6BG6GA's ? Should i do a switch to go from ul to triode mode?

My main speakers are going to be 4-6 ohm. SO i should just stick with the edcor single taps and shoot for 4ohm load right?

Do i want a tube rectifier? All my other tube amps just used a single selinum diode. I have never heard a tube rectifier.
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Old 28th January 2010, 04:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nightanole View Post
What power do i get out of the 6BG6GA's ?
They are a 6L6GC in a different package. Expect 4-5W in triode, depending on your operating point.

Quote:
Should i do a switch to go from ul to triode mode?
How efficient are your speakers? You may want UL if they need the extra oomph. If you go with switchable UL, you will want switchable CFB too. UL sounds best with CFB but triode sounds better without it.

Quote:
My main speakers are going to be 4-6 ohm. SO i should just stick with the edcor single taps and shoot for 4ohm load right?
I would agree.

Quote:
Do i want a tube rectifier? All my other tube amps just used a single selinum diode. I have never heard a tube rectifier.
I dunno, do you? I have a switch on mine to go between the tube and the FREDs and I can't tell the difference. When I put a meter on B+, it changes very slowly when I flip the switch because I have so much capacitance in the power supply. So if you are looking to save every penny you could probably live without the tube. Make *sure* you get the Fairchild Stealth diodes and not the FREDs that George still lists in the parts list. You can't get them from Digikey yet. Here is the Mouser part number:

D2,D3 - Diode - Rectifier - Stealth - 1200V, 8A, 44ns, 3.3Vf - TO-220AC - Fairchild - ISL9R8120P2 - Mouser - 512-ISL9R8120P2
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Old 28th January 2010, 06:16 PM   #17
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Guess i cant edit posts...

Is there a faq for the tube chart?

Tubes & Transformers
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Old 28th January 2010, 06:26 PM   #18
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For SSE? There is a detailed overview here:

Tubes & Transformers
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Old 30th January 2010, 03:21 PM   #19
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I meant what do the numbers mean on the chart. I can only figure out the voltage and the watts. Im not sure what the other numbers mean, and the red orange numbers sound like you are over powering the tubes.
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Old 30th January 2010, 03:54 PM   #20
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They are all rough approximations. Actual results depend on your actual B+, the actual drop through the OPT, the behavior of the tube, etc.

B+ voltage = your actual B+ rail
Load Z = the primary impedance of the OPT
Vp = output tube plate voltage (B+ - OPT drop)
Vk = output tube cathode voltage
Rk = cathode resistor value (R17,R27)
Ik = cathode current
Diss (idle) = output tube plate dissipation at idle (no sound)
Pwr Out = maximum power output
Dist - 2nd = second harmonic distortion
Dist 3rd = 3rd harmonic
DF = dampening factor (how well the output can cope with varying speaker impedance)

The orange "Diss" number are approaching the maximum spec for that tube type. You can see how the harmonic distortion values tend to go down as the tube current (and therefore plate dissipation) values go up. You are trading tube life for improved sound. The red values are "overloading" the tube. This is all based on the old, published specs. Some tubes can handle more without hurting the tube (plate glow) and some can't even meet those specs. It depends on which tubes you choose. Some have better reputations than others.

The point of the table is to give you a rough idea of the trade offs involved when you choose what tubes to run and what OPT primary impedance to get. You'll notice that for a given B+ and tube type, you get more output power with a 3k primary impedance than with a 5k but the trade off is more distortion and lower dampening factor. That choice would be driven more by your choice in speakers. If they are not very efficient (need more power) and but are not too difficult to drive (can live with lower dampening factor), you may prefer a 3k primary and use KT88s. If they are very efficient (95dB or higher), then you will probably get better results with a 5k primary, which lets you run EL34s.

It's all about trade-offs.
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