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Old 30th January 2010, 07:46 PM   #11
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Default Filament Heat Sink Alternative

Here is another possibility. I know George didn't have much luck bending the 5pin regulator leads, but it can be done carefully. In the attached photo I had an extra heat sink laying around so I cut through the top plate and exposed it. It is electrically isolated with mica and grease. The sink is bonded to chasis ground in case the insulators break down.

For the FETS and CCS I used 1/8th inch plate similar to rknize. The key is to have some airflow in the chasis. Otherwise, as I found out, the FETS WILL die.
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Old 30th January 2010, 10:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
I hope you aren't planning to mount the PCB upside down. The tube sockets will have their pins swapped. It won't matter for the heater, but having the grid and plate pins swapped will be bad.
Click the image to open in full size.

OK, between your last post and finally placing sockets and tubes on the board, I get it. I had the wild-eyed idea of wiring the sockets because I have this phobia about amps whose sockets are so buried it's necessary to grasp the tube by the bulb.

Click the image to open in full size.

1 1/4" stand-offs will expose the bases of all but the 9-pins and those are much tougher IME than the big guys.

Thanks for that!
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Old 31st January 2010, 12:22 AM   #13
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1 1/4" stand-offs will expose the bases of all but the 9-pins and those are much tougher IME than the big guys.
Use a "socket saver" to boost the height od the 9 pin tubes.

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Old 31st January 2010, 01:37 AM   #14
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Ditto...you can see them in the pic I posted earlier. You can even take them apart and splice a grid stopper resistor into the appropriate pin, if you are super-paranoid.
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Old 3rd February 2010, 02:08 PM   #15
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Just for the records, I measured the temperature of the heat sinks with a thermocouple.

The mosfet are at 110 C and the CCS at 90 C, with the standard heat sink. The probe was between the two and the board is working without chassis.

I don't think is a goos idea to have them under the board. :-(

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Old 3rd February 2010, 02:40 PM   #16
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Not without pulling the heat away from the area with a large heat sink of some sort, no. Sounds similar to the measurements I made with the same setup. I ended up putting them back on top after playing around with the chassis design, though either way would have been fine, thermally.
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