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Old 6th February 2010, 12:38 PM   #21
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I doubt the socket it self is ruined. You would probably see damage to it if it were. Your fuse isn't blown, I know pretty obvious thing to check. I would take a bunch of more pictures of everything now that you have redone it. I really doubt the switch is shot it may just be how it it is wired. Are you switching both the hot and neutral on your switch? Something about your switch wiring looks really wrong but it could be just to early for me in the morning. It may help. I would take a bunch of more pictures of everything now that you have redone it. Good luck.
Click the image to open in full size.
Is this how you have wired your transformer? Yeah yeah I am no artist. If you are switching both your hot and neutral you should have it wired like the above photo. Obviously there is a ground too but I didn't draw that in.

Last edited by nic6paul; 6th February 2010 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 6th February 2010, 01:12 PM   #22
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I just realized you have a filtered IEC....So I suppose something could be damaged but I would double check that wiring.
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Old 6th February 2010, 01:19 PM   #23
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A fine picture! I've got it wired like that now and I'll throw some more pics up tomorrow (and live in Tokyo and its the middle of the night here) for everyone's thoughts. It sounds like there's really no way to test the IEC?
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Old 6th February 2010, 01:41 PM   #24
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Make sure that the fuse is on the hot line side and not the nuetral.
You should be able to check the IEC by measureing continuity between the input and output pins for each connector. Also make sure no continuity between pins.

From your pictures it looks as if you tie both the nuetral and the ground together at the switch. large green wire. If so that is not a good idea. The ground is a safety ground and should not be in the power path. The ground should be tied to the center of your amp's star ground. Take a look at George's site on wiring diagrams, particularly on grounded.

In the US nuetral is(should be) at ground potential (often tied together in the house circuit breaker box). You must consider them as seperate. The nuetral is designed to carry the operating current and the ground is only a drain in the event of a short or failure.

If the green wire isn't ground, then sorry for the ramble.
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Old 6th February 2010, 01:51 PM   #25
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On that particular transformer(XPWR059) you tie the black and green wire together for 120v operation. That is why in the picture I made they are like that. I have that exact transformer in my simple se.
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Old 6th February 2010, 02:11 PM   #26
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I appreciate the clarification. I live on a military base in Tokyo and we have our own power system on base. It makes things a little confusing/troubling because outside the gates Japan runs on 100V/50Hz but inside we run at 120V but still 50Hz (which makes everyone's clocks run a little off!). To make matters worse, I will be moving to Germany in a couple of months so I'll have an entire new power system to deal with. That's why I try to buy everything with universal transformers but it does make things a little confusing.

Anyway, on my particular Edcor, good eye bye the way, (the XPWR059) Black/Green and Black (white)/Green (white) equals 120V operation.

As for measuring the IEC, remember this is a thread for dummies Can you help me out a little on how I would measure continuity and what exactly I'd be looking for?

Oh, one more thing, per an earlier rec, I beefed up the power wire's to 12 gauge and I'm wondering if ground wire should also be that heavy. The ground wire I ran off the RCA's and binding posts is only 20 gauge.
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Old 6th February 2010, 02:40 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjppop View Post
As for measuring the IEC, remember this is a thread for dummies Can you help me out a little on how I would measure continuity and what exactly I'd be looking for?

Oh, one more thing, per an earlier rec, I beefed up the power wire's to 12 gauge and I'm wondering if ground wire should also be that heavy. The ground wire I ran off the RCA's and binding posts is only 20 gauge.
12 gauge? Good grief. You're not trying to jump start a car here...

Plug your power cord into the IEC connector, but don't plug the other end into the wall. Make sure you have a good fuse in the fuse holder. Turn the power switch on. Again, the power cord is not plugged into the wall. Set your meter to measure ohms, or set it to check continuity. Put the probes on the free end of the power cord. You should have continuity (or very low ohms) all the way through the cord:IEC:fuse:switch:PT:IEC:cord. Make sense?
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Old 6th February 2010, 02:44 PM   #28
Sheldon is offline Sheldon  United States
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I don't know anything about your switch, but switches are simple binary devices. Have a diagram of a (the) switch in front of you, then follow simple logic. If you haven't much experience and a double pole switch adds confusion, then get a single pole, single throw switch (SPST). That just means two terminals. On/off is usually indicated somewhere on the switch, but it's easy just to test. On means 0R between the poles, Off means infinite R.

One common problem when making final assembly is pinching a wire between the chassis and transformer. Check those.

Final point: The AT7 grid, shorted to ground, may not have anything to do with your problem, but NEVER start the amp unless ALL your static resistances check out. Have the amp schematic in front of you and measure EVERY point to every other point, and every point to ground, and make sure that the resistance reading makes sense. If you are stumped, keep looking at your schematic and measuring (write all measurements on a copy of the schematic) until you understand all the connections. There aren't that many on a tube amp, so do them all. If you do this you will know your amp well.

Sheldon

Last edited by Sheldon; 6th February 2010 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 6th February 2010, 02:47 PM   #29
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Setup your meter for measuring volts AC. If it is not auto-ranging, be sure to select a high enough range. Connect it across the hot and neutral terminals and then plug in the cord. If you don't see anything, then you know either the cord or the socket is bad. Just make sure you hook up the meter before applying power.
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Old 6th February 2010, 02:49 PM   #30
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Is is possible for the socket to be damaged because those filtered one usually have a small series choke on each leg. It's crowded in there, so they use smaller gauge wire.
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