New Tubelab SSE
I thought that I'd post a picture of my new SSE that just came to life this weekend. The chassis design was heavily inspired (a.k.a. copied) from Pez's amp in post #42 of this thread. The wood is curly maple and cherry.
This is my first experience with tube amps, so I was a little worried that it wouldn't really have enough power to drive my 89-90 dB old Polk Audio monitors. Well, with JJ EL34's there is plenty of power in triode mode for my listening levels. UL makes it louder than I need. I'd like to try some KT88's or KT90's...
The transformers are all de-blued Edcors (XPWR002-120 and GSXE's). The wooden board that supports the transformers is removable/replaceable if I decide to upgrade to bigger transformers at some point. I get about 420V B+ with a 5AR4 rectifier tube and this 720V transformer. I couldn't bring myself to spend the extra $20 to get the Edcor 750V transformer. I have the motor run cap and triad choke hidden inside the chassis, as well as a 6-setting cathode resistor circuit with a rotary selector switch on the back. I put a pair of test points on the back to measure cathode voltage/resistance without having to go into the guts of the amp.
Anyway, this amp sounds great and was a ton of fun to build. Worked first time I fired it up. Probably the hardest part was wiring up the CFB switch, which took some thinking and a little experimentation to get the right polarity. In hindsight, I might have made the chassis a little bigger. Cramming everything into a 10x12 box was a bit challenging.
I thought that I'd post a picture of my new SSE that just came to life this weekend. The chassis design was heavily inspired (a.k.a. copied) from Pez's amp in post #42 of this thread. The wood is curly maple and cherry.
This is my first experience with tube amps, so I was a little worried that it wouldn't really have enough power to drive my 89-90 dB old Polk Audio monitors. Well, with JJ EL34's there is plenty of power in triode mode for my listening levels. UL makes it louder than I need. I'd like to try some KT88's or KT90's...
The transformers are all de-blued Edcors (XPWR002-120 and GSXE's). The wooden board that supports the transformers is removable/replaceable if I decide to upgrade to bigger transformers at some point. I get about 420V B+ with a 5AR4 rectifier tube and this 720V transformer. I couldn't bring myself to spend the extra $20 to get the Edcor 750V transformer. I have the motor run cap and triad choke hidden inside the chassis, as well as a 6-setting cathode resistor circuit with a rotary selector switch on the back. I put a pair of test points on the back to measure cathode voltage/resistance without having to go into the guts of the amp.
Anyway, this amp sounds great and was a ton of fun to build. Worked first time I fired it up. Probably the hardest part was wiring up the CFB switch, which took some thinking and a little experimentation to get the right polarity. In hindsight, I might have made the chassis a little bigger. Cramming everything into a 10x12 box was a bit challenging.
TSE is Finally Home
Finally have my TSE in it's permanent home. Took me way too long to build the enclosure. Had to get the 2 by 4 and plywood breadboard out of the family room before my wife threw me out. For someone who never did electronic work or even soldered before I am pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to build the TSE. Thank you George for terrific instructions (pictures were invaluable) and everyone here on "diyAudio". Found out if I had a problem to just search the Tubelab Forum and there would be an answer. If I had only knew how to pay closer attention to the difference between 120 ohm and 120k ohm I may not have spent 2 days pulling my out hair trying to figure out why R30 was burning up
(I replaced it twice before it clicked). I originally had the amp up and running in the fall but then something went wrong and it stopped working. I picked it back up in January and figured out it was just the rectifier tube, NOS. Then last week, the new 5AR4 I purchased in January failed. I'm currently using my last rectifier tube. In reading the posts here it appears this can be a common problem until you find that magic tube that seems to last forever.
I used 3/4" Brazilian Cherry flooring that I had leftover from our kitchen for the box. I had to paint it so it would closely match the shelf unit it sits on (W.A.F.). I did leave the back unpainted (for me) and if desired I can always remove the paint. I would not recommend this wood to anyone who (Like me) doesn't have the proper tools. This flooring is harder than a rock to work with. I always wanted the 'Record Player' look. The enclosure started as a square box them changed into a 45 degree front, which morphed into 60 degrees. Again, a W.A.F. consideration. Though I do like it better. The turntable platter stands out more. The top plate is 1/2 inch Lexan in a Light Smoke color which sits in a routered grove in the walls. This way my edges don't have to be perfect. The Lexan is more than strong enough to hold the transformers. The amp weighs in at a tad over 40 pounds. Yes, that is a real album sitting on top. I just added it this morning and have not turned on the amp to witness a possible melting process take place. I more than likely will have an 'Album' plate made by Front Panel when I get the extra $125. I used Edcor's XPWR131-120 PT and CXSE25-8-5K OPTs. Edcor finally came out with black bells which look much better in my situation than the blue ones. Socekts and resistors are mounted on top with everything else on the bottom. It wasn't dificult bending the little legs of the voltage regulator. My wiring isn't the greatest. I still have to clean up the wiring mess ( Can't bring myself to cut the wires shorter, since I may change my mind about the arraignment in the case. With all the messy wiring there is (at this time any ways) no hum issues. Except with my ear right up against the speaker I can hear a slight noise.
I cannot say enough about how this amp sounds. I am using Raython 45's (purchased off eBay) and run the TSE through Klipsch Forte II's. I feel as though I'm sitting center stage at every venue. Friends who listen to the TSE are amazed that an amplifer that generates less-than 2 watts can produce such claity and volume. I have used the pre-outs on my Pioneer VSX-1121K connected to the TSE and I am able to turn the volume up to clipping (First time the speakers clipped we didn't know what it was and thought, O' Sh--, we screwed up the speakers). There was no percieved distortion in sound before or after the clipping. I can say that I prefer the TSE as a 'Stand Alone' component. When playing an iPod through the Pioneer pre-outs I can hear a sound that is... Not right??? I know there is no way to state a subjective feeling, so I'll just say that I prefer the iPod connected directly to the TSE for what I perceive as a warmer / better sound.
I do have some "Tweaking" questions that will fit other threads so I will ask them there. Please tell me if you see any glaring deficiencies in my pictures. And don't look at my Mickey Mouse heat sinks. Measuring with a heat gun after being on for hours they read less than 110 degrees.
Finally have my TSE in it's permanent home. Took me way too long to build the enclosure. Had to get the 2 by 4 and plywood breadboard out of the family room before my wife threw me out. For someone who never did electronic work or even soldered before I am pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to build the TSE. Thank you George for terrific instructions (pictures were invaluable) and everyone here on "diyAudio". Found out if I had a problem to just search the Tubelab Forum and there would be an answer. If I had only knew how to pay closer attention to the difference between 120 ohm and 120k ohm I may not have spent 2 days pulling my out hair trying to figure out why R30 was burning up
(I replaced it twice before it clicked). I originally had the amp up and running in the fall but then something went wrong and it stopped working. I picked it back up in January and figured out it was just the rectifier tube, NOS. Then last week, the new 5AR4 I purchased in January failed. I'm currently using my last rectifier tube. In reading the posts here it appears this can be a common problem until you find that magic tube that seems to last forever. I used 3/4" Brazilian Cherry flooring that I had leftover from our kitchen for the box. I had to paint it so it would closely match the shelf unit it sits on (W.A.F.). I did leave the back unpainted (for me) and if desired I can always remove the paint. I would not recommend this wood to anyone who (Like me) doesn't have the proper tools. This flooring is harder than a rock to work with. I always wanted the 'Record Player' look. The enclosure started as a square box them changed into a 45 degree front, which morphed into 60 degrees. Again, a W.A.F. consideration. Though I do like it better. The turntable platter stands out more. The top plate is 1/2 inch Lexan in a Light Smoke color which sits in a routered grove in the walls. This way my edges don't have to be perfect. The Lexan is more than strong enough to hold the transformers. The amp weighs in at a tad over 40 pounds. Yes, that is a real album sitting on top. I just added it this morning and have not turned on the amp to witness a possible melting process take place. I more than likely will have an 'Album' plate made by Front Panel when I get the extra $125. I used Edcor's XPWR131-120 PT and CXSE25-8-5K OPTs. Edcor finally came out with black bells which look much better in my situation than the blue ones. Socekts and resistors are mounted on top with everything else on the bottom. It wasn't dificult bending the little legs of the voltage regulator. My wiring isn't the greatest. I still have to clean up the wiring mess ( Can't bring myself to cut the wires shorter, since I may change my mind about the arraignment in the case. With all the messy wiring there is (at this time any ways) no hum issues. Except with my ear right up against the speaker I can hear a slight noise.
I cannot say enough about how this amp sounds. I am using Raython 45's (purchased off eBay) and run the TSE through Klipsch Forte II's. I feel as though I'm sitting center stage at every venue. Friends who listen to the TSE are amazed that an amplifer that generates less-than 2 watts can produce such claity and volume. I have used the pre-outs on my Pioneer VSX-1121K connected to the TSE and I am able to turn the volume up to clipping (First time the speakers clipped we didn't know what it was and thought, O' Sh--, we screwed up the speakers). There was no percieved distortion in sound before or after the clipping. I can say that I prefer the TSE as a 'Stand Alone' component. When playing an iPod through the Pioneer pre-outs I can hear a sound that is... Not right??? I know there is no way to state a subjective feeling, so I'll just say that I prefer the iPod connected directly to the TSE for what I perceive as a warmer / better sound.
I do have some "Tweaking" questions that will fit other threads so I will ask them there. Please tell me if you see any glaring deficiencies in my pictures. And don't look at my Mickey Mouse heat sinks. Measuring with a heat gun after being on for hours they read less than 110 degrees.
Attachments
Nice amp idea with the TT!
For improved tube rect. life try this mod , and you can use newer faster UF4007 for a few cents more each. George added the mod to his newer SE boards lately.
tube rectifier diode mod
For improved tube rect. life try this mod , and you can use newer faster UF4007 for a few cents more each. George added the mod to his newer SE boards lately.
tube rectifier diode mod
I agree......except for the disco part.....it is one of the most unusual chassis I have seen in a while...cool.....OK, who is going to put a chip amp and an SD card player INSIDE an old 8 Track tape cartidge
It might be OK since a record doesn't melt if you leave it out in the Florida sun for say a year or so. It will eventually crumble from the UV, but tubes don't make much UV.
Finally have my TSE in it's permanent home. Took me way too long to build the enclosure. Had to get the 2 by 4 and plywood breadboard out of the family room before my wife threw me out. For someone who never did electronic work or even soldered before I am pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to build the TSE. Thank you George for terrific instructions (pictures were invaluable) and everyone here on "diyAudio". Found out if I had a problem to just search the Tubelab Forum and there would be an answer. If I had only knew how to pay closer attention to the difference between 120 ohm and 120k ohm I may not have spent 2 days pulling my out hair trying to figure out why R30 was burning up
I used 3/4" Brazilian Cherry flooring that I had leftover from our kitchen for the box. I had to paint it so it would closely match the shelf unit it sits on (W.A.F.). I did leave the back unpainted (for me) and if desired I can always remove the paint. I would not recommend this wood to anyone who (Like me) doesn't have the proper tools. This flooring is harder than a rock to work with. I always wanted the 'Record Player' look. The enclosure started as a square box them changed into a 45 degree front, which morphed into 60 degrees. Again, a W.A.F. consideration. Though I do like it better. The turntable platter stands out more. The top plate is 1/2 inch Lexan in a Light Smoke color which sits in a routered grove in the walls. This way my edges don't have to be perfect. The Lexan is more than strong enough to hold the transformers. The amp weighs in at a tad over 40 pounds. Yes, that is a real album sitting on top. I just added it this morning and have not turned on the amp to witness a possible melting process take place. I more than likely will have an 'Album' plate made by Front Panel when I get the extra $125. I used Edcor's XPWR131-120 PT and CXSE25-8-5K OPTs. Edcor finally came out with black bells which look much better in my situation than the blue ones. Socekts and resistors are mounted on top with everything else on the bottom. It wasn't dificult bending the little legs of the voltage regulator. My wiring isn't the greatest. I still have to clean up the wiring mess ( Can't bring myself to cut the wires shorter, since I may change my mind about the arraignment in the case. With all the messy wiring there is (at this time any ways) no hum issues. Except with my ear right up against the speaker I can hear a slight noise.
I cannot say enough about how this amp sounds. I am using Raython 45's (purchased off eBay) and run the TSE through Klipsch Forte II's. I feel as though I'm sitting center stage at every venue. Friends who listen to the TSE are amazed that an amplifer that generates less-than 2 watts can produce such claity and volume. I have used the pre-outs on my Pioneer VSX-1121K connected to the TSE and I am able to turn the volume up to clipping (First time the speakers clipped we didn't know what it was and thought, O' Sh--, we screwed up the speakers). There was no percieved distortion in sound before or after the clipping. I can say that I prefer the TSE as a 'Stand Alone' component. When playing an iPod through the Pioneer pre-outs I can hear a sound that is... Not right??? I know there is no way to state a subjective feeling, so I'll just say that I prefer the iPod connected directly to the TSE for what I perceive as a warmer / better sound.
I do have some "Tweaking" questions that will fit other threads so I will ask them there. Please tell me if you see any glaring deficiencies in my pictures. And don't look at my Mickey Mouse heat sinks. Measuring with a heat gun after being on for hours they read less than 110 degrees.
I am speechless!
TSE rectifier mod question
Can you tell me if I'm applying this corectly:
For this mod with the TSE I will need to cut the board tracings and rewire the tracings from T1-4 /T1-5 to the 5AR4 tube socket.
For T1-4.
1. Cut the bottom of the board tracing that goes from T1-4 to Pin 6.
2. Solder a wire from T1-4 to Pin 7 and solder the diode between Pins 6 and 7 with the diode stripe facing Pin 6.
For T1-5.
1. Cut the bottom of the board tracing between the one leg of 'D-3' and Pin 4.
2. Solder a wire between that specific 'D-3' leg and Pin 5. Then solder the diode between Pins 4 and 5 with the diode stripe facing Pin 4.
I'm using George's assembly pictures, the above link and the 5AR4 schematic to try and figure out the proper places to rewire. If I'm correct in where to cut the board and how to rewire it, my next question is how deep/wide do I need to cut to to break the connections.
Lastly, I will be ordering the diodes from Mouser and in looking them up I see that there are a variety of UF4007's. To me they appear the same. Since there is no cost issue, is there a recommendation?
Thanks for you help.
Can you tell me if I'm applying this corectly:
For this mod with the TSE I will need to cut the board tracings and rewire the tracings from T1-4 /T1-5 to the 5AR4 tube socket.
For T1-4.
1. Cut the bottom of the board tracing that goes from T1-4 to Pin 6.
2. Solder a wire from T1-4 to Pin 7 and solder the diode between Pins 6 and 7 with the diode stripe facing Pin 6.
For T1-5.
1. Cut the bottom of the board tracing between the one leg of 'D-3' and Pin 4.
2. Solder a wire between that specific 'D-3' leg and Pin 5. Then solder the diode between Pins 4 and 5 with the diode stripe facing Pin 4.
I'm using George's assembly pictures, the above link and the 5AR4 schematic to try and figure out the proper places to rewire. If I'm correct in where to cut the board and how to rewire it, my next question is how deep/wide do I need to cut to to break the connections.
Lastly, I will be ordering the diodes from Mouser and in looking them up I see that there are a variety of UF4007's. To me they appear the same. Since there is no cost issue, is there a recommendation?
Thanks for you help.
How did you ground the board ? I don't see any wire connected to the
ground lug on the IEC socket.
Are you using a power fuse in there ?