Tubelab Simple P-P - Page 60 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Commercial Sector > Vendor Forums > Tubelab

Tubelab Discussion and support of Tubelab products, prototypes and experiments

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 26th August 2013, 05:26 PM   #591
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
jasoun,

If you check the Tubelab "Tubes and Transformers" page for the Tubelab PP, George recommends a transformer capable of 640-650 VCT - IIRC the XPWR008 is 600VCT (300-0-300).

http://www.tubelab.com/AssemblyManualSimpleP-P/TubesAndTransformers_SPP.htm

If I am not wrong a few of the folks ran into problems with the rectifier, and I recall reading that the Sovtek 5AR4 does a good job in this design, and that is what I am using
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th August 2013, 03:54 AM   #592
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Broomfield, CO
I'm using an Edcor XPWR008 on one of my Simple PP's. I get a B+ of 337 volts using a Shuguang GZ34 rectifier with the standard 150 ohm R1. This is just right according to the link that zman01 posted.
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th September 2013, 02:59 PM   #593
aroS3 is offline aroS3  Greece
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Send a message via MSN to aroS3
Default Using a pot 100k

If i want to use a 100K pot, do i have to remove the 220k grid leak resistor or not ?
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th September 2013, 09:21 PM   #594
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Default Spp

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian444 View Post
Kerontt, I found the rft 12AT7's to be stronger in midrange and treble, and weaker in bass, compared to my other branded 12AT7's. If your system needs stronger bass I suggest trying any other different brand. Using matched tubes isn't really necessary IMO, the cathodyne phase splitter does not make gain. If you really wanted matched preamp tubes, its the 2nd triode of each 12AT7 tube (pins 6, 7 and 8) that need to be matched to each other. It will only affect the balance between the left and right speaker, you could always buy 3 un-matched and swap them around if the L-R balance was noticeably out.

Very nice build!
Ian, thanks a lot mate. I've been so busy with work and being away that I haven't worked on the amp in ages. It's covered free from dust until I can do some more modding. I will change the rfts to jj perhaps. The outputs are cryo jj's and sound pretty good. High ones do you use?

Does one channel on your amp play considerably louder than the next? Regardless if I swallow the valves around I get the same channel playing louder and distorting faster. Could it be the pot? It 100k
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th September 2013, 05:42 AM   #595
aroS3 is offline aroS3  Greece
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Send a message via MSN to aroS3
Quote:
Originally Posted by aroS3 View Post
If i want to use a 100K pot, do i have to remove the 220k grid leak resistor or not ?
Polite reminder
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st October 2013, 03:45 AM   #596
akimmet is offline akimmet  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NW Ohio
Quote:
Originally Posted by aroS3 View Post
If i want to use a 100K pot, do i have to remove the 220k grid leak resistor or not ?
It is unnecessary to remove the grid leak resistor, I prefer to leave it in place in-case of volume pot failure.
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st October 2013, 05:36 AM   #597
aroS3 is offline aroS3  Greece
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Send a message via MSN to aroS3
Quote:
Originally Posted by akimmet View Post
It is unnecessary to remove the grid leak resistor, I prefer to leave it in place in-case of volume pot failure.
thanks mate...
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd October 2013, 02:04 PM   #598
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
Quote:
Originally Posted by rknize View Post
Well, this is the wiring diagram for the Hammond 1650FA OPT:

Click the image to open in full size.

Each channel on the SPP has 3 sets of terminals for the OPTs. So for example, from left to right along the back of PCB:



Left Channel
  • L-PRI_2
    • 2 - V102 screen - primary blue/yellow wire
    • 1 - V102 plate - primary blue wire
  • L-PRI_1
    • 3 - V101 screen - primary brown/yellow wire
    • 2 - V101 plate - primary brown wire
    • 1 - primary red wire
  • L_FB
    • 2 - Ground - secondary black wire
    • 1 - Feedback - secondary (green, yellow, or white)

Right Channel
  • R-PRI_2
    • 2 - V202 screen - primary blue/yellow wire
    • 1 - V202 plate - primary blue wire
  • R-PRI_1
    • 3 - V201 screen - primary brown/yellow wire
    • 2 - V201 plate - primary brown wire
    • 1 - primary red wire
  • R_FB
    • 2 - Feedback - secondary (green, yellow, or white)
    • 1 - Ground - secondary black wire
Please note that L_FB and R_FB are mirrored! Also note that if you do decide to use feedback (by installing C101/201), you may need to swap the PRI_1 and PRI_2 secondary connections on each channel to get the right phasing (leave the red wire where it is). I can't remember if I had to or not. You'll know if it's wrong if you get loud squealing out of your speakers with feedback connected.
Russ,

For pentode connection, I would have to connect the following points to one another?

PRI_1-3, PRI_1-1, PRI_2-2
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SimplePPschemPentode circled.jpg (137.2 KB, 224 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th November 2013, 05:40 AM   #599
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
I've been using tubelab pp in UL since start and today is the first time I try in triode mode and realized that the amp sound differently. Is it just me? Do any of you guy have the same experience? Sound cleaner sparkling high. Falling in love with this amp all over again
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th November 2013, 11:51 AM   #600
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
Nutto,

Triode mode should sound different. But coming from me, this is repeating something I have read, as I am still in the process of getting the Tubelab PP configured correctly.

I am pretty sure others will chime in with real life experience.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electrolyticless Tubelab Simple SE nic6paul Tubelab 26 20th August 2013 12:56 PM
Second Tubelab Simple SE board done budmaestro Tubes / Valves 0 24th July 2008 12:18 AM
First Project Finished-Tubelab Simple SE waam68 Tubes / Valves 2 12th April 2008 06:23 AM
Tubelab Simple SE & Edcor waam68 Tubes / Valves 2 6th March 2008 12:15 PM
New SET: JE labs simple 45 or tubelab SE? cwujek Tubes / Valves 14 27th November 2007 04:15 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:48 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2