Tubelab Simple P-P - Page 58 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Commercial Sector > Vendor Forums > Tubelab

Tubelab Discussion and support of Tubelab products, prototypes and experiments

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 22nd January 2013, 03:00 AM   #571
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
Thanks Chris.
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st April 2013, 10:25 AM   #572
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
I have two options for output tubes. The Harma el84 cryo and the tad str cz. Which is better for Hammond 1650fa opts? I'm using a Hammond 372JX for mains.
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st April 2013, 10:39 AM   #573
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Default tube recommendations

I have a Hammond 1650fa opt and Hammond 372JX. What are some good el84 tubes some of you guys have used on the spp with good results?
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2013, 04:03 PM   #574
rknize is offline rknize  United States
diyAudio Member
 
rknize's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Chicagoland
Send a message via AIM to rknize Send a message via Yahoo to rknize
If you are looking at modern production, there are really only two types.

JJ makes an EL84 that is pretty tough. My SPP has a bit too much B+, but the JJ tubes laugh it off.

There are the ones made by New Sensor, which are all based on the Russian 6P14P design. They are marketed by New Sensor under a variety of names, brands, and prices. If it is new production and not JJ, it's probably New Sensor. They generally work fine until you push a bit too hard on the B+ front. Their screens can't handle voltages much over 300V. The 372JX should put you close to the edge, but still safe. I can't run these in mine, which uses a 373CZ.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2013, 10:00 PM   #575
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Thanks for the advice Russian. I will get the cryo jj. I will eventually get the psvane el84. Have you used the cryo valves?

Keron
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd April 2013, 05:08 AM   #576
rknize is offline rknize  United States
diyAudio Member
 
rknize's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Chicagoland
Send a message via AIM to rknize Send a message via Yahoo to rknize
I have not used anything exotic like that.
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd April 2013, 06:30 PM   #577
rmyauck is offline rmyauck  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Adding fixed bias, even with Dave Gillespie's fixed bias EFB Mod would enable you to get the tubes dissipation to the safe level with any production tube. It can be added to any EL-84/7591 PP amp.

Dave's Lab
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th May 2013, 05:39 PM   #578
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Default which goes where?

Ok guys u finally got the trannies and the chassis sorted out. Ive started the wiring but I'm stuck. How do I wire the primary on the opt. Which is the scr gr and the plate? Another thing is do I have to ground the chassis to the board?
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th May 2013, 10:15 PM   #579
rknize is offline rknize  United States
diyAudio Member
 
rknize's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Chicagoland
Send a message via AIM to rknize Send a message via Yahoo to rknize
Well, this is the wiring diagram for the Hammond 1650FA OPT:

Click the image to open in full size.

Each channel on the SPP has 3 sets of terminals for the OPTs. So for example, from left to right along the back of PCB:

Left Channel
  • L-PRI_2
    • 2 - V102 screen - primary blue/yellow wire
    • 1 - V102 plate - primary blue wire
  • L-PRI_1
    • 3 - V101 screen - primary brown/yellow wire
    • 2 - V101 plate - primary brown wire
    • 1 - primary red wire
  • L_FB
    • 2 - Ground - secondary black wire
    • 1 - Feedback - secondary (green, yellow, or white)

Right Channel
  • R-PRI_2
    • 2 - V202 screen - primary blue/yellow wire
    • 1 - V202 plate - primary blue wire
  • R-PRI_1
    • 3 - V201 screen - primary brown/yellow wire
    • 2 - V201 plate - primary brown wire
    • 1 - primary red wire
  • R_FB
    • 2 - Feedback - secondary (green, yellow, or white)
    • 1 - Ground - secondary black wire

Please note that L_FB and R_FB are mirrored! Also note that if you do decide to use feedback (by installing C101/201), you may need to swap the PRI_1 and PRI_2 secondary connections on each channel to get the right phasing (leave the red wire where it is). I can't remember if I had to or not. You'll know if it's wrong if you get loud squealing out of your speakers with feedback connected.
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th May 2013, 08:55 PM   #580
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Have a constant hum in one channael. Swapped the tubes around and it's still in the same channel. Any ideas?
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electrolyticless Tubelab Simple SE nic6paul Tubelab 26 20th August 2013 12:56 PM
Second Tubelab Simple SE board done budmaestro Tubes / Valves 0 24th July 2008 12:18 AM
First Project Finished-Tubelab Simple SE waam68 Tubes / Valves 2 12th April 2008 06:23 AM
Tubelab Simple SE & Edcor waam68 Tubes / Valves 2 6th March 2008 12:15 PM
New SET: JE labs simple 45 or tubelab SE? cwujek Tubes / Valves 14 27th November 2007 04:15 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:04 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2