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simple se build

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I swapped the two input signals with one another but the dead channel still remained dead. So, I believe that my input source and wiring is correct. Is it starting to look like a bad 12AT7 tube? To answer Chris's questions, I don't have a chassis yet, the input connectors are wired but not attached to anything. I'll see if I can find a 12AT7 tube locally.
 
Hi All,

I finally fixed my problem. It was the input wiring being crossed. I redid all the wiring and found the problem. I've been listening for two days now and it sounds real nice. It does seem to sound better and better every day. I am surpised at how good the vocals sound. It is lacking in the bass and some high frequencies. I am using some chinese tubes ($7) and hope it will sound different with the KT88. I do not have very good speakers either so that could be why they lack some top end?
I am looking forward to turning is up some but have to wait until this weekend.
I am still going to experiment with the different modes before I build a enclosue for it.
Thanks all for the help thus far!!
 
You are using those big Edcors, right? With KT88s that iron sounds great. Mine lacks a little HF "detail" compared to the TSE, but the frequency itself seems perfectly fine. I attribute that to the massive OPTs more than anything. I tried bypassing the cathode caps with film caps, but I couldn't tell the difference. Honestly I still haven't hooked it up to the test equipment yet to see how it does. It's kind of a turn-key amp, so I never bothered with all that. George has much better hardware than I have anyway. :)

I've been renovating my basement for the past few months...a few hours a day in the evenings. The Simple SE has been on every night playing all kinds of things...it's a great amp. I've actually had the EH 6CA7's in there all this time and I am not left wanting for more bass, most of the time.
 
Put the fuse on the hot side of the mains, it's safer. That way if the fuse blows, there is no mains power in the amp. If it's on the neutral side and blows, there is still mains power inside the amp.:hot:

For devices with CE, UL, CSA safety approval, the hot side has to be fused, and with medical devices, both sides have to be fused. That's why most IEC power entry modules have two fuses. Arguably, with two fuses you could end up with live mains inside the unit if the neutral fuse blows and the hot fuse is still intact.
Thanks for the tip. If you use one fuse each on hot and neutral, what about the current rating? If the original spec calls for 1 x 1/2A, would you use 2 x 1/2A or
2 x 1/4A?
 
If you use one fuse each on hot and neutral...

You should never fuse the neutral. That violates electric code. It's dangerous. If the neutral fuse blows, the device will not operate and may appear not to be energized. However, it could potentially have line voltage on it.

Don't fuse the neutral. Don't put a switch on the neutral side either, unless you're using a double pole / double throw switch and have the hot side switched too.
 
Rknize,

I am using the big Edcor's but not with the KT88. From what i've read, the big Edcors sound really great with the KT88. I still breaking things in with 6l6gc tubes. These sound very nice as well but I hope great things from the KT88. I still need to build my enclosure but with a five month old it is hard to find any time:).
 
I've read lots of people over audioasylum really like the Russian 6N3C-E tubes in place of EL34; also some are talking about a 6P3S-E. As far as I can tell, these are variations on the 6L6 family but don't look like they can handle the voltage that a 6L6GC can take.

It sounds like several people have successfully used the 5881 in the Simple SE; has anyone tried these Russian tubes?
 
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