New (old) guy here.... sadly I've contracted this awful disease - I can't seem to be able to buy anything audio related anymore. I have to BUILD it. Weird.
So I am now building - or will be building a Simple SE. I've pulled together all of the parts I'll need but there are a couple that I'm having trouble sourcing.
First the volume pot. Based on the schematics I need a dual 50k pot. I found a couple on Digikey but they were >$22 each. Seemed kinda high.
Second, the power choke. I thought I saw a part number on tubelab, but I can't seem to find it again!!!
I'm attaching the list of parts I chose and prices so I can add up what this is going to cost me.
At the moment I have an S5 16LS amp driving Fostex FE166E homebuilt horns - and it sounds damn good... but slightly lacking.
From the list below I have chosen the Allied power transformer and the Edcor OPT's. The Edcor's are 3 weeks out !!!!
Tube lab design
Output tubes EL34 (soviet) T-EL34-WC-MP $46.4 (both)
input gain tube 12AT7
T-12AT7-FND 12AT7 - DUAL TRIODE, FENDER $10.25
www.tubesandmore.com
rectifier tube 5AR4
T-5AR4-SOVT $16.95
www.tubesandmore.com
Power transformer hammond 274BX $92.36
http://www.newark.com/hammond/274bx/transformer-power/dp/66F7310?_requestid=272086
Also can use Allied 6K7VG $50.32
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pr...MPN=6K7VG&R=2270013&SEARCH=2270013&DESC=6K7VG
output transformer $117.95 x 2
TRANSFORMER, OUTPUT, ONE ELECTRON, 4800 TO 16/8/4
www.tubesandmore.com
another OPT choice: CXSE25-8-5K $83.50 x2
http://www.edcorusa.com/Products/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=465
Circut board $43
tubelab.com
Digikey parts $92.12
Hammond chassis $26.02
subtotal $427 - $520
shipped Digikey $128.66
So I am now building - or will be building a Simple SE. I've pulled together all of the parts I'll need but there are a couple that I'm having trouble sourcing.
First the volume pot. Based on the schematics I need a dual 50k pot. I found a couple on Digikey but they were >$22 each. Seemed kinda high.
Second, the power choke. I thought I saw a part number on tubelab, but I can't seem to find it again!!!
I'm attaching the list of parts I chose and prices so I can add up what this is going to cost me.
At the moment I have an S5 16LS amp driving Fostex FE166E homebuilt horns - and it sounds damn good... but slightly lacking.
From the list below I have chosen the Allied power transformer and the Edcor OPT's. The Edcor's are 3 weeks out !!!!
Tube lab design
Output tubes EL34 (soviet) T-EL34-WC-MP $46.4 (both)
input gain tube 12AT7
T-12AT7-FND 12AT7 - DUAL TRIODE, FENDER $10.25
www.tubesandmore.com
rectifier tube 5AR4
T-5AR4-SOVT $16.95
www.tubesandmore.com
Power transformer hammond 274BX $92.36
http://www.newark.com/hammond/274bx/transformer-power/dp/66F7310?_requestid=272086
Also can use Allied 6K7VG $50.32
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pr...MPN=6K7VG&R=2270013&SEARCH=2270013&DESC=6K7VG
output transformer $117.95 x 2
TRANSFORMER, OUTPUT, ONE ELECTRON, 4800 TO 16/8/4
www.tubesandmore.com
another OPT choice: CXSE25-8-5K $83.50 x2
http://www.edcorusa.com/Products/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=465
Circut board $43
tubelab.com
Digikey parts $92.12
Hammond chassis $26.02
subtotal $427 - $520
shipped Digikey $128.66
oldmanStrat said:
Common disease. There is no cure except for more cow bell...er projects.
Radio Shack still sells one that I have used many times. It is very good. A 100k pot will work fine too...just make sure it's audio taper.
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pr...MPN=C-14X&R=9671006&SEARCH=9671006&DESC=C-14X
Yeah, it's a bummer but I for one am glad to hear they are busy. Their stuff is a great value for the money as they make top notch stuff.
You can also use Edcor XPWR035, which barely gets warm in my Simple SE. Here are the specs:
370-0-370 @ 200mA
6.3 VCT @ 5A
5V @ 2A
I have both of these. Be aware that the One Electron does not have a 40% tap, so you won't be able to run Ultralinear if you want. I have the CXSE25-8-5Ks as well. They are monsters but they sounded great when I had the rig bread-boarded.
What size is this? Be warned that all that iron is REALLY TIGHT on a 10x12" chassis:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1783961#post1783961
Russ
For audio pots- Alpha are pretty good, especially for the money.
Mouser part# RV24BF-10-15R1-A50K
I agree with the advice to make the chassis large enough.... though they are expensive.
It's a lot easier to control hum problems if you have enough space to route signal wires apart from AC.
If you are 'handy' you can make a chassis with a wood frame and aluminum top plate. I really like the Eric Kingsbury (pointz- audiotropic.com) style chassis, and have used it on a few different projects.
Cheers
John
Mouser part# RV24BF-10-15R1-A50K
I agree with the advice to make the chassis large enough.... though they are expensive.
It's a lot easier to control hum problems if you have enough space to route signal wires apart from AC.
If you are 'handy' you can make a chassis with a wood frame and aluminum top plate. I really like the Eric Kingsbury (pointz- audiotropic.com) style chassis, and have used it on a few different projects.
Cheers
John
Attachments
Re: Re: Starting a Simple SE build...
cowbells? I'm afraid to ask.
Just what I need - an excuse to go to RS and harass the teenagers. (Can you show me your vacuum tube section?)
Thats what I heard - I also like the way they look
I'll check it out once Edcor's site is back up.... they seem to be having issues lately.
It is a 10x12. But I have only bought the cover for that chassis. My plan is to build a box out of red oak - mount everything on the cover put the cover on top of the box - with the volume out the front and the power & I/O out the back.
Thanks for your input!
rknize said:
cowbells? I'm afraid to ask.
Just what I need - an excuse to go to RS and harass the teenagers. (Can you show me your vacuum tube section?)
Thats what I heard - I also like the way they look
I'll check it out once Edcor's site is back up.... they seem to be having issues lately.
It is a 10x12. But I have only bought the cover for that chassis. My plan is to build a box out of red oak - mount everything on the cover put the cover on top of the box - with the volume out the front and the power & I/O out the back.
Thanks for your input!
The Simple SE is a great amp to build. I still enjoy mine. I posted a long thread while I was building it, and in the middle is my parts list. Maybe it'll give you some ideas:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1591160#post1591160
I thought it was a little less expensive to buy most parts from Mouser, and some of the high voltage capacitors and the semiconductors from DigiKey.
I'll second the recommendation for a good sized chassis. I used a 9"x14" aluminum top plate. It all fit, but just barely. Larger would be better.
Cow bell fever is tough. I can't help you there. Gotta get some BOC to fix that...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1591160#post1591160
I thought it was a little less expensive to buy most parts from Mouser, and some of the high voltage capacitors and the semiconductors from DigiKey.
I'll second the recommendation for a good sized chassis. I used a 9"x14" aluminum top plate. It all fit, but just barely. Larger would be better.
Cow bell fever is tough. I can't help you there. Gotta get some BOC to fix that...
I had the audiotropic link incorrect- sorry- it's .net, not .comoldmanStrat said:
Aardvarkash has the link for you, above.
If you don't want to do the 'trick' in the Pointz chassis with the wiring from the PS to the amp hidden in the wood frame, you could just float a nice wood panel in the space between the 2 parts of the chassis.
BTW, the Pointz MM is a really good sounding amp for your next project.
Cheers
John
The Allied IS a Hammond. It is bigger (more laminations) than the 274BX because it is rated for 50Hz operation, and it costs a lot LESS. Why would you buy the 274BX? I have used them both and I prefer the Allied.
If you really want a 274BX get it from AES it is $78.95. The 374BX is reported to be better than either of the others, but it costs $116.05.
VictoriaGuy said:
got it. I've been entertaining myself reading his site...
I am going to drop all the AC below the top plate - it needs to be switched & fused & wired to the rear IEC - so that seems to make the most sense.
holy crap. I don't even have the parts for this one yet....!!!!
BTW, the Pointz MM is a really good sounding amp for your next project.
stop feeding the addiction man!
boywonder said:
It's a slippery slope......I haven't got Poinz' EL34 music machine off of the breadboard yet and I am sitting here simultaneously stuffing the SimpleSE and TubelabSE boards
Seriously - two tube amps is one more than I really need. I'm just going to build the SE, and then the Fostex FE206E horns (big monster cabinets) then maybe a phono preamp. And I was thinking of building a SS amp for comparison purposes... And thats it.... unless my son wants an amp for college...
Damn. Is there a 13 step program for DIY?
You that you have got it bad when you find your self building an amp listening to it for a week or so and then taking it all apart so that you can build something else.
After doing this for 40+ years I learn to never cut a transformer lead to length. I leave them long because I know that I am going to need more wire on the next amp. My big Edcor OPT's are in their third amp. and the little guys have been in at least 5. I don't even bother to make a chassis any more, I just screw everything to a piece of wood.
Later this year I might break down and get a modern TV since the newest TV in the house is 12 years old. Of course I will need a "modern" sound system to go with it. This means that I might get to make at least one complete amp this year. There were none last year.
Two is more than I really need too, but I can see 6 complete amps and several more in pieces from where I am sitting, and right now, NONE of them are connected to my speakers. What is the number for DIYanon?
B+ question
Ok - so I'm going through the parts from Digikey that just showed up and I re-read the note on R17/R27 - the cathode resistors. Wanting to double check the value, I tried to figure out an approximate B+ voltage...
Now if I have 750CT transformer or 375-0-375, my understanding is that this is an RMS number. Which would leave me with 375/.707 or 530V!
Now I know this is wrong. What I don't know is why...
Lastly I want to sneak in a motor run cap question - these caps seem to be spec'd fairly low in value (10-20uf) and as AC. I believe that this would be installed on the B+ (optional cap on the schematics) - so the question is why? There is already a 100uf there... if I'm way off track feel free to let me know.
Ok - so I'm going through the parts from Digikey that just showed up and I re-read the note on R17/R27 - the cathode resistors. Wanting to double check the value, I tried to figure out an approximate B+ voltage...
Now if I have 750CT transformer or 375-0-375, my understanding is that this is an RMS number. Which would leave me with 375/.707 or 530V!
Now I know this is wrong. What I don't know is why...
Lastly I want to sneak in a motor run cap question - these caps seem to be spec'd fairly low in value (10-20uf) and as AC. I believe that this would be installed on the B+ (optional cap on the schematics) - so the question is why? There is already a 100uf there... if I'm way off track feel free to let me know.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.