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Old 23rd March 2009, 03:47 PM   #11
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by kuroguy


Try some nice wood for the frame and a piece of aluminum plate for the top panel, or at least a nice wood front panel. Glowing tubes and nicely figured wood belong together.
I intend to go with a very clean and classic look for the Tubelab SE in my other thread. Probably mahogany frame with a SS top plate. That will look nice with the ST-shaped tubes. I will probably not use the on-board 4 pin sockets in order to spread-out the tubes a bit.

The layout of the SSE PCB puts the tubes in an asymmetric orientation, so I am probably going to run with that and put the PSU to the side. So I'm thinking of doing a more industrial design. Probably not Morgan-Jones-meets-treadplate like George's, but something more along the lines of a big finned heatsink, like a giant car amp with tubes and transformers on top. I can't find an extrusion with enough real estate, but I can make something out of channel and bar stock to give a similar affect.

Just want to do something a little different.
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Old 23rd March 2009, 04:57 PM   #12
kuroguy is offline kuroguy  United States
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Regarding the tubelab SE, consider that stainless is much harder to machine than aluminum (and much harder on your cutting tools). I have been able to polish aluminum to a mirror finish with 120 grit through 1200 grit and then metal polish - not too much work.
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Old 23rd March 2009, 05:09 PM   #13
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by kuroguy
Regarding the tubelab SE, consider that stainless is much harder to machine than aluminum (and much harder on your cutting tools). I have been able to polish aluminum to a mirror finish with 120 grit through 1200 grit and then metal polish - not too much work.
You bring up a good question i was going to ask. Not in this thread, but who cares...

Have folks successfully punched SS with Greenlee punches? I have a few that would work. I have some SS plate on hand already, so that is why i was going to use it.

Russ
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Old 23rd March 2009, 05:17 PM   #14
Jeb-D. is offline Jeb-D.  United States
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Weren't you the guy I told they would be overkill unless your building a Pentode or UL mode 6550/KT88? Now you know what I'm talking about

I made the mistake of getting the chassis first (a really nice $160 chassis I may add) for my project that uses Edcors. Once they arrived, I realized that a larger chassis is needed. It was an expensive mistake.

On the bright side, in my 15Wrms SE (6c33c) the frequency response is only down .2dB@20Hz running full power.Though distortion is 1-2% higher at 20Hz than 1kHz measurement. It cleans up around 40Hz.

The power transformer transformer I got from them are the first I've seen that doesn't display a flat-topped waveform when rectified and ran close to the VA rating. It still looks like a sine wave

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Old 23rd March 2009, 05:26 PM   #15
Jeb-D. is offline Jeb-D.  United States
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You should try running those 6l6GC in Pentode or UL.
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Old 23rd March 2009, 05:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Try some nice wood for the frame and a piece of aluminum plate for the top panel, or at least a nice wood front panel.
I am planning a wood surround with a clear Lexan top plate. The tube sockets will be up on stilts so the PC board can sit on the lower deck.

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I am hopeful that I stay motivated enough to finish both amps before summer really gets here and the itch to be out in the garage returns.
The situation here is a bit different the garage is a storage shed. The table saw must be used outside. In the summer it is just too hot, so my woodworking is usually done in the winter. I cut and routed the wood and Lexan for this amp a year ago. I haven't had the time to work on it, or any amp since then. It won't happen any time soon either.
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Old 23rd March 2009, 05:59 PM   #17
kuroguy is offline kuroguy  United States
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Still off topic (sorry for the hijack). aluminum can be worked with wood cutting tools as long as you keep the cutting edge well oiled and use low speed tools. I've used hole saws, drill bits and even circular saw blades that were made for wood on aluminum. You gotta go really slow and keep things lubricated. wood tools are way less expensive than metal cutting tools. I can't say that I'd ever consider stainless with the way that aluminum polishes up and machines.
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Old 23rd March 2009, 07:16 PM   #18
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Yeah, as I mentioned in the other SSE thread, you can do nice work with aluminum in a drill press with otherwise crude tools as long as you mount the piece firmly and go slow with oil. I've used flat wood bits and cheap hole saws with good results, as long as you are aware that the holes will be slightly larger due to the way these tool clear their teeth.

I have a really big SS door kicker plate in the basement that I never used. It has a nice brushed finish and will look good. I'm just not quite sure if the Greenlee punches are hard enough.
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Old 23rd March 2009, 07:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeb-D.
Weren't you the guy I told they would be overkill unless your building a Pentode or UL mode 6550/KT88? Now you know what I'm talking about
Yep, that's me and my answer was "yes". I have 6550s, KT88s, and KT90s to try. Since then I have finally upgraded my speakers, so the picture has changed slightly.

Quote:
I made the mistake of getting the chassis first (a really nice $160 chassis I may add) for my project that uses Edcors. Once they arrived, I realized that a larger chassis is needed. It was an expensive mistake.

On the bright side, in my 15Wrms SE (6c33c) the frequency response is only down .2dB@20Hz running full power.Though distortion is 1-2% higher at 20Hz than 1kHz measurement. It cleans up around 40Hz.

The power transformer transformer I got from them are the first I've seen that doesn't display a flat-topped waveform when rectified and ran close to the VA rating. It still looks like a sine wave [/B]
So far I've been happy with them, but I only have one power transformer and it's fairly over-rated. As to the chassis, it's just a Hammond 12x10 aluminum one that I already had. I'll find some other use for it, I'm sure.
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Old 23rd March 2009, 07:25 PM   #20
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by tubelab.com
I am planning a wood surround with a clear Lexan top plate. The tube sockets will be up on stilts so the PC board can sit on the lower deck.
I wanted to raise the 5842s so I could drop the board a bit more and recess the other tubes. Those little triodes are so short. I didn't do it because I was concerned about increasing the distance between the tube and the grid stopper. I did spring for carbon comp for those two, but I would think adding another 1/2 inch wouldn't be good for oscillation. My only thought was to put the grid stopper "into" the leg of the socket between the base and the PCB.

Russ
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