Tubelab SimpleSE: Edcor XSE15-8-5K or XSE25-16-7.6K? - Page 4 - diyAudio
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Old 1st February 2009, 11:10 AM   #31
pukka is offline pukka  Spain
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boris_The_Blade
They have good prices on 2-3 watt metal films (PR03 series) and lytic capacitors if you don't have them already. One of my preferred vendors as well...
Yep, more expensive than mouser, but better for hard to find parts. Thanks for the tip

Quote:
Originally posted by chrish
With the JJs, you can get EL34 and E34L. The E34L has higher voltage rating and is what I am using FWIW...
I know, I looked for info on these in the forum, and yours an other (seems a general consensus) opinions was what made me choose them. Thanks!

Anyone on the Genalex/Edcor GXSE-XSE?
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Old 1st February 2009, 01:31 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by pukka
Yep, more expensive than mouser, but better for hard to find parts. Thanks for the tip
Digi-Key and Mouser are good sources. Don't forget Newark and Allied as well.
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Old 2nd February 2009, 07:04 AM   #33
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BTW, any reason for the driver Rk bypass cap to be so huge?
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Old 2nd February 2009, 02:35 PM   #34
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BTW, any reason for the driver Rk bypass cap to be so huge?
At the time that I compiled the parts list I tested a big bunch of capacitors on a HP component analyzer. The Panasonic capacitor specified was chosen because it had the lowest ESR of the 15 or so capacitors that I had available to test. I doubt that it really makes much difference, but the engineer in me tends to choose the best available component for the job, especially when the cost differences are small. I did the same with the output tube capacitor. I no longer have access to that analyzer.

You could probably substitute any similar sized parts within reason. I would use at least 270 uF in the driver circuit (20 ohms reactance at 30 Hz). A 6.3 volt rating is adequate.

Use at least 680 uF in the output circuit (8 ohms reactance at 30Hz) especially if CFB is used. The output stage capacitor should be rated for operation at 105 degrees C simce it will absorb some heat from nearby tubes. A 50 volt or 63 volt rated capacitor is required.

The boards were shipped Saturday.
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Old 2nd February 2009, 04:26 PM   #35
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great!

Will source as per parts list in regards of Ck's.

What about rhe Genalex Gold Lion reissue? Would they be worth with Gxse/Xse OPTs?
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Old 10th February 2009, 05:55 PM   #36
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Tubes are here, we finally got Gold Lion's.

PCBs are here also!

I'm afraid the latest items will be the transformers.

A question, I see the OIL motor run capacitor goes after the choke or first cap.

What's the improvement? I can see it if all were motor run oil caps, or at least the first (though 80uF will be too much for the 5AR4?) as it will take the harder job after the rectifier.

Will it take out stress from the rest of caps? wouldn't a bigger electrolitic cap provide more improvement?
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Old 10th February 2009, 09:26 PM   #37
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The idea is to provide a low impedance output from the power supply to feed the amplifier. Therefore you want the best capacitor electrically closest to the output transformers. This means the second capacitor. An oil filled, or a polypropelyne motor run (not start) capacitor has the lowest ESR (effective series resistance) over the widest frequency range of any low cost capacitors. Using a better quality electrolytic is good, but most electrolytics start to behave like inductors at the highest audio frequencies. Upgrading the first capacitor offers little benefit and increasing the value makes life tough on the rectifier tube.

At least one builder used motor run capacitors for both capacitors and left the electrolytics off of the board. He reported excellent results, but the firsr cap should still be 50 uF or less.
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Old 11th February 2009, 08:15 AM   #38
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I knew there has to be a reason

For us a huge SCR will cost the same than the motor run oil from ebay due to shipping... will look for them locally however.
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Old 12th February 2009, 05:43 PM   #39
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digikey parts arrived

I have several 100K stepper attenuators from eaby sometime ago, I guess I can use the w/o problems instead of the 50K specified one? just thta I'll need to crank up the volume more? or should something else (R11/R21?) be adjusted?
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Old 12th February 2009, 06:53 PM   #40
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No changes needed, 100K will work fine.
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