YASSE - Yet Another Simple SE Build - Page 4

n_maher · 7th November 2008, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by N1ESE
Meanwhile, USPS just delivered my KT88's and some used EL34's (for testing) along with all the board components from Mouser. [/i]

I got a box of tubes today as well, EL34s and 6L6GCs reporting for testing duty. I also made a discovery last weekend that I didn't have a DMM that could handle the B+ of the Simple so I remedied that with the purchase of a Fluke 179 this morning. 1000V will hopefully give me enough headroom to test this beast.

N1ESE · 7th November 2008, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by n_maher
Simple so I remedied that with the purchase of a Fluke 179 this morning. 1000V will hopefully give me enough headroom to test this beast.

Nice, I need to get one that can handle 1000V myself. My current unit only handles 600V I think.

Just flicked the switch on the soldering station, time to install the resistors. I can't do too much else though as the tube sockets have not arrived yet. UPS has my AES order with the sockets and Hammonds arriving on Monday.

n_maher · 7th November 2008, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by N1ESE

Nice, I need to get one that can handle 1000V myself. My current unit only handles 600V I think.

I went for the 179 for not only the 1000V threshold but also the included thermocouple and ability to measure up to 10,000uF capacitance. I also splurged and bought a new soldering station as well, economy be damned!

N1ESE · 7th November 2008, 06:42 PM

Damn, Mouser shorted me on the 560-ohm 5W's. Guess I will order the FREDs now along with the missing resistors from DigiKey.

N1ESE · 7th November 2008, 07:32 PM

All resistors except for the missing ones for R17 and R27 have been installed. R1 will not be used. Missing resistors and FREDs have been reordered.

cjkpkg · 7th November 2008, 08:13 PM

Those Edcor OPT's look really nice. I went with the low cost XSE series and have been really happy with them.

Down the road I may upgrade to the CXSE series...those combined with some EL34's or KT88's would make for a nice combination I think...

Regards,
Carl

chrish · 7th November 2008, 10:44 PM

I have fried two sets of solid state diodes in my Simple SE. This was due to the implementation of the standby switch. Just in case you have not seen it on the web site, do NOT install the standby switch. With some transformers (I have Hammond 374BX) there can be a large voltage spike when the standby switch is turned on. Now, if you don't have a standby switch, you will want the B+ to come up slowly. This means using a valve rectifier rather than solid state.

Leave the solid state out and simply buy a spare GZ34/5AR4. Use the time/effort that you were going to use putting in the switch for SS/valve rectification to have selectable cathode bias for different valve types. See http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...65#post1526165

No need for anything fancy to do this. I just used some cable ties to tie three resistors together. Closest to the board was an 820R resistor. This always stays in the cct and there will be a switch to place in parallel with it either a 1.0K (for 597R total) or 2.2K (for 450R total) resistor. before soldering the three resistor package to the board, solder all three legs at one end of the three resistors together. This then gets inserted and soldered to the PCB. At the other end, just solder the 820R resistor in to the board. The loose ends of the 1.0K and 2.2K get soldered to wires that run to a 3 position 2 pole switch (1 pole per channel). The return wire of the switch goes back to the 820R resistor. Now you will have the 820R in the cct at all times. Switch open curcuit gives 820R. This is good for 6L6. Switch paralleled with 2.2K gives 597R, this is good for EL34. Switch paralleling 1.0K gives 450R, this is good for KT88.

Cheers,

Chris

N1ESE · 8th November 2008, 12:04 AM

Thanks Chris, I knew about the standby problem and thanks for the heads up on the cathode bias.

One more pic for the night. I just mounted a scrap piece of carbon fiber sheet to act as the front panel. Installed so far is a power switch and stereo jack for my iPod. Still have to mount the volume pot but it has not arrived from Japan yet. The flash glare from the camera is a bit intense.

N1ESE · 10th November 2008, 06:16 PM

Power iron (374BX) and choke (193H) along with the tube sockets arrived today. I wasted no time mounting everything. Still waiting for the missing bias resistors to arrive so I can finish the board and no ETA from Edcor yet on the CXSE's ordered a week ago.

N1ESE · 11th November 2008, 02:05 AM

I was able to find some resistors locally so I was able to complete the board assembly. Only thing I'm waiting for now are the OPTs.

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7th November 2008, 06:42 PM	#34
N1ESE diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Damn, Mouser shorted me on the 560-ohm 5W's. Guess I will order the FREDs now along with the missing resistors from DigiKey.

7th November 2008, 07:32 PM	#35
N1ESE diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	All resistors except for the missing ones for R17 and R27 have been installed. R1 will not be used. Missing resistors and FREDs have been reordered.

7th November 2008, 08:13 PM	#36
cjkpkg diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Roswell GA	Those Edcor OPT's look really nice. I went with the low cost XSE series and have been really happy with them. Down the road I may upgrade to the CXSE series...those combined with some EL34's or KT88's would make for a nice combination I think... Regards, Carl

7th November 2008, 10:44 PM	#37
chrish diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Sydney	I have fried two sets of solid state diodes in my Simple SE. This was due to the implementation of the standby switch. Just in case you have not seen it on the web site, do NOT install the standby switch. With some transformers (I have Hammond 374BX) there can be a large voltage spike when the standby switch is turned on. Now, if you don't have a standby switch, you will want the B+ to come up slowly. This means using a valve rectifier rather than solid state. Leave the solid state out and simply buy a spare GZ34/5AR4. Use the time/effort that you were going to use putting in the switch for SS/valve rectification to have selectable cathode bias for different valve types. See http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...65#post1526165 No need for anything fancy to do this. I just used some cable ties to tie three resistors together. Closest to the board was an 820R resistor. This always stays in the cct and there will be a switch to place in parallel with it either a 1.0K (for 597R total) or 2.2K (for 450R total) resistor. before soldering the three resistor package to the board, solder all three legs at one end of the three resistors together. This then gets inserted and soldered to the PCB. At the other end, just solder the 820R resistor in to the board. The loose ends of the 1.0K and 2.2K get soldered to wires that run to a 3 position 2 pole switch (1 pole per channel). The return wire of the switch goes back to the 820R resistor. Now you will have the 820R in the cct at all times. Switch open curcuit gives 820R. This is good for 6L6. Switch paralleled with 2.2K gives 597R, this is good for EL34. Switch paralleling 1.0K gives 450R, this is good for KT88. Cheers, Chris

8th November 2008, 12:04 AM	#38
N1ESE diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Thanks Chris, I knew about the standby problem and thanks for the heads up on the cathode bias. One more pic for the night. I just mounted a scrap piece of carbon fiber sheet to act as the front panel. Installed so far is a power switch and stereo jack for my iPod. Still have to mount the volume pot but it has not arrived from Japan yet. The flash glare from the camera is a bit intense.

10th November 2008, 06:16 PM	#39
N1ESE diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Power iron (374BX) and choke (193H) along with the tube sockets arrived today. I wasted no time mounting everything. Still waiting for the missing bias resistors to arrive so I can finish the board and no ETA from Edcor yet on the CXSE's ordered a week ago.

11th November 2008, 02:05 AM	#40
N1ESE diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	I was able to find some resistors locally so I was able to complete the board assembly. Only thing I'm waiting for now are the OPTs.