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Old 22nd November 2009, 01:59 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by nic6paul View Post
On my second I am trying to find some that will work with 1/8" thick aluminum. The radio shack ones dont work all that well with it.
Try McMaster-Carr They have zillions of grommets. They also have rubber vibration mounts etc if you want to get even more exotic.
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Old 22nd November 2009, 03:32 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by boywonder View Post
Try McMaster-Carr They have zillions of grommets. They also have rubber vibration mounts etc if you want to get even more exotic.
My hardware store locally actually had a great selection of larger sizes.
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Old 27th November 2009, 03:17 AM   #33
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Hi,
Some more questions:
1. What are the characteristics of the ICL (min 2A), but R@25 and R@current?

2. Is there a problem to put R17 and R27 under the board with mini binding post ( http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20...0PDFs/8737.pdf )?

3. How do you fix the ICL? I want to avoid exposed current and this ICL is a bugger. Do you fix it at the switch, at the power input, other?

4. Can you tell me more about the transformer orientation. What should I avoid (transfo-transfo and transfo-tube)? My plan is to have the power and the output transformer at the top and the choke under.

Thanks,
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Old 27th November 2009, 03:53 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by spacemen12 View Post
Hi,
Some more questions:
1. What are the characteristics of the ICL (min 2A), but R@25 and R@current?

Thanks,
Typically a CL-090 is used, with 120 ohms at 25 deg C and about 1 ohm at rated current. This limits current to about 1 amp when the ICL is cold.

This goes in series with your hot mains wire, at the switch, power input, or on the transformer primaries, anywhere between the power cord and the primarys of the power transformer.

here is the digi-key P/N: Digi-Key - KC009L-ND (Manufacturer - CL-90)
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Old 27th November 2009, 12:11 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boywonder View Post
Typically a CL-090 is used, with 120 ohms at 25 deg C and about 1 ohm at rated current. This limits current to about 1 amp when the ICL is cold.

here is the digi-key P/N: Digi-Key - KC009L-ND (Manufacturer - CL-90)
Thanks,
There are currently out of stock, so I was looking for alternatives.
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Old 2nd December 2009, 02:58 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemen12 View Post
Hi,
Some more questions:
1. What are the characteristics of the ICL (min 2A), but R@25 and R@current?

2. Is there a problem to put R17 and R27 under the board with mini binding post ( http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20...0PDFs/8737.pdf )?

3. How do you fix the ICL? I want to avoid exposed current and this ICL is a bugger. Do you fix it at the switch, at the power input, other?

4. Can you tell me more about the transformer orientation. What should I avoid (transfo-transfo and transfo-tube)? My plan is to have the power and the output transformer at the top and the choke under.

Thanks,
Hi,
I have some more questions.

I received my tubes and sockets. I try to fit them in, but it is quite hard. Fortunately the sockets are not yet on the board, because of the force required to push the tube all the way down the socket would have probably break th board! Is this normal? How do you "train" your tube/socket so they can be replace while on the board?

If I want to keep my options open (ul switch and cathode follower switch) what wire should I avoid to mix? There will be two dpdt switch going in and out of the output transfo.

thanks
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Old 2nd December 2009, 05:42 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemen12 View Post
I received my tubes and sockets. I try to fit them in, but it is quite hard. Fortunately the sockets are not yet on the board, because of the force required to push the tube all the way down the socket would have probably break th board! Is this normal? How do you "train" your tube/socket so they can be replace while on the board?
As long as the PCB is on a flat surface, there is no danger of breaking it. Breaking-in new sockets an be a little scary, especially the noval ones. I have a couple of crusty old tubes that I use to get new sockets through their first time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemen12 View Post
If I want to keep my options open (ul switch and cathode follower switch) what wire should I avoid to mix? There will be two dpdt switch going in and out of the output transfo.
I'm afraid I don't follow. Are you asking which wires not to mix-up? The answer is all of them.
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Old 2nd December 2009, 12:18 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by rknize View Post
I'm afraid I don't follow. Are you asking which wires not to mix-up? The answer is all of them.
Hi,
What worries me is that my pcb will be suspended. Plus, the 9-pin won't be flat on the pcb, it will slightly rise to match the height of the 8 pins (like in the manual).

Which wires should be twisted, which one should be in parallel, which one should be perpendicular? I am trying to design a spaghetti bowl without harmful interference.

Thanks
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Old 2nd December 2009, 02:30 PM   #39
rknize is offline rknize  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemen12 View Post
What worries me is that my pcb will be suspended. Plus, the 9-pin won't be flat on the pcb, it will slightly rise to match the height of the 8 pins (like in the manual).
Unless you have a particularly flimsy socket, you will be fine. Did you use the AES part listed by George?

Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemen12 View Post
Which wires should be twisted, which one should be in parallel, which one should be perpendicular? I am trying to design a spaghetti bowl without harmful interference.
All AC-carrying pairs should be twisted together and pushed into the corners of the chassis where possible. This means the primary and each pair of secondaries coming out of the power transformer. You can further reduce cross talk by avoiding running power supply wires in parallel with signal carrying ones (input, CFB, UL switch wires, for example). Other than that, it doesn't matter too much. The most sensitive wires will be from the input jacks to the PCB. Keep these away from everything else as much as possible.

For example, all of the switch wires on my SSE are bundled in parallel. They don't seem to cause any issues.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 3rd December 2009, 02:10 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by rknize View Post
Unless you have a particularly flimsy socket, you will be fine. Did you use the AES part listed by George?
I got the generic ceramic sockets from partsconnexion.
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