John Curl's Blowtorch preamplifier part III

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The situation was that all the discount store radios and tvs where polarized. They had a tag on the AC cable to only plug into a polarized outlet, and to get an electrician if your outlet was unpolarized.

I said I don't remember this, what is your time frame? Mine is 1959 and forward. We never bought a single appliance that we could not plug right into our 1920's sockets.
 
I took a 1970's Triniton in to service in our lab and when I pushed it back to get a better look the chassis frame touched the metal shelf on our benches with spectacular results.
You mean the covers were off ?
That era series of Sony (and other) sets ran live chassis with HV capacitors built into the RF socket assembly.
Those sets that had a headphone socket utilised an audio coupling transformer to provide isolation.


Dan.
 
I said I don't remember this, what is your time frame? Mine is 1959 and forward. We never bought a single appliance that we could not plug right into our 1920's sockets.

I think it might have been a little later. At first, there was not even polarized as you pointed out. I agree it was once that way before the stuff with cheating polarized came along. I might have been in my early teens, maybe a little later. 5-tube radios were not polarized as I recall, and they had a hot chassis. Small B&W tvs I remember I believe were polarized, but hard to say about the earlier tvs. Those earlier ones that I remember had transformers.
 
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Re: Power filtering.
My current system is an Onkyo reciever (with Network connection) feeding line level to Denon receiver and powered sub, all powered from a motorised auto transformer AC regulator feeding a power board with three internal filters and three sets of AC outlets. The three loads can all be plugged into any of the three AC outlet banks.

I find that the system sounds remarkably better when the three loads are powered from individual banks. With any two items plugged into the same bank the sound degrades, and with all loads plugged into any one bank the sound of the system is degraded the most.
All of the load items are high quality yet there is clear interaction between these individual loads.

The subjective improvement due to load filter isolation is particularly evident on vocals and audience clapping sounds, with slight upper mids harshness gone, and much better LR imaging and depth imaging and greater sense of power in the lower bass. Just sayin'.

Dan.
 
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I would add to this that a two-wire AC distribution system like knob and tube without a third ground wire can be made safe without a grounding conductor when integrated with a GFCI breaker in the main panel.

Howie

Or GFCI duplexes for the outlets. Often forgotten here is that the green wire has no magic noise reduction properties. Its there for safety in the hopes that the fuse or circuit breaker will open before anything worse happens.

In wet areas near salt water knob and tube have great benefits. Getting salt spray into conduit is not a good thing. Taking electric shop in San Francisco in 1967 was a quick intro into how things were done in an earlier era.
 
Speaking of wiring, I talked today with an engineer who ran a special set of heavy gauge wires in HP's house, a long while ago, to just run a power amp properly. He, like me, is an active audio perfectionist, and he gives me hope that there are still engineers out there who care enough to make the very best, rather than just the practical. He works for a company named MSB, and they make both digital and analog products. From what I can gather from the website, and personal opinions of some users, these guys make the best digital in the world, and their analog may rank the same. It was refreshing to talk to someone who thinks the way I do!
 
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Speaking of wiring, I talked today with an engineer who ran a special set of heavy gauge wires in HP's house, a long while ago, to just run a power amp properly. He, like me, is an active audio perfectionist, and he gives me hope that there are still engineers out there who care enough to make the very best, rather than just the practical. He works for a company named MSB,


Mains spurs are good. I approve that MSB make their own boards in house. But the intriguing part is that they don't appear to have an EE on the permanent staff. So who designs the circuits? The CEO claims to be the designer, but you can't run a company, deal with international sales and run tech support if you are designing the very best?
 
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Yes I had to debug my Wife's sister getting tingles from her laptop from the charger. It was only one particular combination of things plugged in that caused it.


On which front 2 wire or 3-wire SMPS for audio? I have examples of both lying around I keep meaning to test from various laptops I have owned for interest sake.


EDIT: yes I know that, with DI stuff it can float at half line voltage, but the charge should not be enough to give a tingle.
 
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It still surprises me the number of bits of kit with a non zero chassis - you know when you run your fingers across the case and can feel a sort of tingly hum sensation, if you know what I mean.
Do you mean not earthed, even via interconnect? I occasionally get a sort of "rough" sensation when I touch my CD player, I put it down to a slight static charge?
 
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Do you mean not earthed, even via interconnect? I occasionally get a sort of "rough" sensation when I touch my CD player, I put it down to a slight static charge?


The interconnect should create the ground path to stop the chassis floating. But I have to say I've never studied Double insulated stuff so might be wrong there.


Following JNeutron on minimising loop area. Here is Russ Andrews on maximising it! http://www.russandrews.com/images/pdf/GroundingDec17.pdf
 
MSB makes very good stuff. It's interesting that their digital is so refined, and yet they prefer no feedback class A amps. They sound great.

I don't doubt it, and if someone has the resources to spend $40k on an amp where the cost is 90+% metalwork, who is hurt in the process? That M204 amp is an ingenious and beautiful piece of heatsinking! I can appreciate how much cost went into having a 166in^2 extrusion die made for a huge chunk of aluminum like that...A 22in^2 car amp extrusion cost us $4k in 1995.

For me, I think the next $40k I get to spend on a toy I think I'll upgrade my milling capabilities with a used 5-axis CNC mill...or get an APx555 and accessories...

Just my 2¢ worth,
Howie
 
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