The display backlight driver on my Dell laptop makes a bit of noise at the very lowest brightness settings, a bit like HF hash/white noise kind of sound. Probably uses some kind of switching arrangement for efficiency.
My HP wireless mouse is also audible, the frequency depending on movement and how much space there is between the sensor and the surface. It also whistles on occasion when it goes into a low power state before falling completely silent after a few minutes of complete inactivity. It amazes me that something with so much technology packed into it can run for so long on a couple of AA cells. Alkalines last around 5 to 6 months, a set of quality lithiums lasted 9 months which was a bit disappointing tbh.
My HP wireless mouse is also audible, the frequency depending on movement and how much space there is between the sensor and the surface. It also whistles on occasion when it goes into a low power state before falling completely silent after a few minutes of complete inactivity. It amazes me that something with so much technology packed into it can run for so long on a couple of AA cells. Alkalines last around 5 to 6 months, a set of quality lithiums lasted 9 months which was a bit disappointing tbh.
Silicone oils, such as in some furniture polishes get everywhere readily and can readily screw up things. I could see them finding their way to relays by hand. The vapor part, unless it was the carrier oil/solvent seems less plausible.
Any acetic acid outgassing from the curing of silicone occurs pretty quick (not too many RT cures that take longer than 24hr), outside of some specialized silicones, the kind of which call out an elevated temp cure.
Any acetic acid outgassing from the curing of silicone occurs pretty quick (not too many RT cures that take longer than 24hr), outside of some specialized silicones, the kind of which call out an elevated temp cure.
Polonium if you ask a certain (former) Russian spy.
Yeah, contamination is bad news bears. The one we were always harped on (for research fabs instead of anything production) was how nefarious oils off your skin could be, especially with anything remotely close to going into the diffusion furnace. So how you put gloves on matters and everything gets thoroughly degreased. Sodium contamination.
Yeah, contamination is bad news bears. The one we were always harped on (for research fabs instead of anything production) was how nefarious oils off your skin could be, especially with anything remotely close to going into the diffusion furnace. So how you put gloves on matters and everything gets thoroughly degreased. Sodium contamination.
The test method for insulated wires is to put a twisted pair and the chemical under test in a sealed glass test tube and heating it.
Next up on topic is what gauge silver wire to use? My feel is that with proper layout the silver wire in a preamp can be uninsulated, particularly if relays are used for switching.
Semi-wholesale 22 gauge .999 soft silver wire is about $75 per one hundred feet.
Next up on topic is what gauge silver wire to use? My feel is that with proper layout the silver wire in a preamp can be uninsulated, particularly if relays are used for switching.
Semi-wholesale 22 gauge .999 soft silver wire is about $75 per one hundred feet.
Or silver and gold wire..
Mundorf silver/gold wire, 0.5mm dia, SGW105 | Hifi Collective
Must sound better surely....
Mundorf silver/gold wire, 0.5mm dia, SGW105 | Hifi Collective
Must sound better surely....
Arsenic just might improve the flavor of some coffee I have had! But that experiment will have to wait, too much still to do.
Ed, you are walking into a firestorm. Silver generally is an almost lousy connecting wire for audio, if applied indiscriminately. It usually adds a bright undertone that gets on your nerves after a while. This is why I always avoided it, until Bob Crump (of CTC) found a suggestion by BEAR that works, but then it had to be both directionalized and 'broken in' by playing wide range audio through the entire roll of the stuff for weeks.
My recommendation is to ask BEAR, (where is he on DIY?) and ask his advice. BEAR KNOWS! (better than everybody else)
My recommendation is to ask BEAR, (where is he on DIY?) and ask his advice. BEAR KNOWS! (better than everybody else)
Too bad Scott. Sometimes, in order to make a really successful audio product, we have had to do more than typical engineering requirements. Personally, I find it too much effort to directionalize and break in silver wire. I just don't do it anymore since Bob Crump passed away. I do KNOW what I have lost, but I will get along with copper.
It is not sad, it is funny, and a glimpse in how high end audio marketing works (you have to sell a story, not a piece of equipment). Something like this is intended to justify the price (together with hand matched devices, teflon PCB, case milled from an aerospace grade aluminum billet, etc...).
Absolutely agreed. Good solid engineering doesn't sell high end audio, a good voodoo story may.
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