We had a mice problem last year. I took the initial humane approach and re-released them several times and covered up the hole they were coming through only to find them back inside the house a few days later just cutting another hole in the floorboards to get in, Our floor in the living room is like swiss cheese.
Only thing that stopped them from coming back was snapping their necks and baiting the traps with Toblerone and Lindt chocolate. These mice never really went for the peanut butter.
I figured at least they got a taste of the finest swiss chocolate before they checked out so it all balanced itself out in the end.
Only thing that stopped them from coming back was snapping their necks and baiting the traps with Toblerone and Lindt chocolate. These mice never really went for the peanut butter.
I figured at least they got a taste of the finest swiss chocolate before they checked out so it all balanced itself out in the end.
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This is my ultrasonic thing, which worked quite well for us. It's an improved version of something Elektuur once published: an ultrasonic oscillator FM modulated by the mains frequency. The FM modulation makes the spectrum wide, which makes it difficult for the mice to get used to the sound. To make it even more difficult, I added a 7-bit maximum-length sequence generator that switches the centre frequency and the deviation every 15 minutes or so.
The supply transformer was 6 V, 200 mA according to the original article, but I've used a 7.5 V, 80 mA AC adapter I happened to have available. Measuring the current with a small resistor and a true RMS meter showed that 80 mA suffices (only just).
There is one resistor with value 390 kohm//150 kohm. I originally used 390 kohm because I wanted the sound to change about once every 50 minutes, but later reduced it by putting 150 kohm in parallel. I don't know what mice dislike most, but the present values certainly do the job.
The supply transformer was 6 V, 200 mA according to the original article, but I've used a 7.5 V, 80 mA AC adapter I happened to have available. Measuring the current with a small resistor and a true RMS meter showed that 80 mA suffices (only just).
There is one resistor with value 390 kohm//150 kohm. I originally used 390 kohm because I wanted the sound to change about once every 50 minutes, but later reduced it by putting 150 kohm in parallel. I don't know what mice dislike most, but the present values certainly do the job.
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Mice hate chewing steel wool, we used those in substations to stop them from getting in as there are many power cables and no people around.
Basically, stuffed steel-wool in entrance holes around cables, pipes and then spray in a bit of expanding foam insulation. They chew some foam insulation and stop right away when they hit the steel wool. Guaranteed to work.
Basically, stuffed steel-wool in entrance holes around cables, pipes and then spray in a bit of expanding foam insulation. They chew some foam insulation and stop right away when they hit the steel wool. Guaranteed to work.
I have used steel wool to block up holes. It is very effective.
There are over 6m of pipe in this small area of roof space. With the insulation and ventilation flow and return, it would be near impossible to wrap steel anything around all the pipes in the very tight apex under the roof.
They are attacking the pipes on the flat area above the upstairs bathroom, but not on any of the slopes in other areas of roof.
There are other flat areas at lower levels over the first floor ceilings and here there are hundreds of feet of plastic pipe - 15mm, 22mm and 28mm. So far I've not found evidence of attack at these lower levels.
And thanks again for all your suggestions.
There are over 6m of pipe in this small area of roof space. With the insulation and ventilation flow and return, it would be near impossible to wrap steel anything around all the pipes in the very tight apex under the roof.
They are attacking the pipes on the flat area above the upstairs bathroom, but not on any of the slopes in other areas of roof.
There are other flat areas at lower levels over the first floor ceilings and here there are hundreds of feet of plastic pipe - 15mm, 22mm and 28mm. So far I've not found evidence of attack at these lower levels.
And thanks again for all your suggestions.
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Softer steels arent mice proof. Have seen them chew through copper pipe. They would have a tough time getting through 304 stainless pipe. You may want to consider it. The 304 costs more but it will cut costs of replacing and repairing pipe and add peace of mind.
A 3/4" x 10' run of 304 is roughly 1/3 more cost. There are options for fittings, machined will obviously cost more. Theres also flex fittings. 304 braided line over rubber, DIY or pre assembled. That acts as a sheath over rubber hose to protect it. For that extra measure of protection wrap them in steel wool.
When the mice get tough, well I'm going to be honest they can cause a lot of trouble. Time to break out the heavy artillery.
A 3/4" x 10' run of 304 is roughly 1/3 more cost. There are options for fittings, machined will obviously cost more. Theres also flex fittings. 304 braided line over rubber, DIY or pre assembled. That acts as a sheath over rubber hose to protect it. For that extra measure of protection wrap them in steel wool.
When the mice get tough, well I'm going to be honest they can cause a lot of trouble. Time to break out the heavy artillery.
Plain "iron" pipe may be more available and cheaper than Stainless. Used in dry attic only for sleeving, "black" (paint) pipe is fine and cheaper than Galvanized water pipe. (If your market has both kinds.) Slightly softer than Stainless but a lot thicker than any SS you would want to pay for. Still need Brillo around joints.
I had not put zero and four together. We are out in the woods. We should have mice. We only had one in 7 years here. We do have garden/garter snakes, I flush one every time I mow. I'm now realizing that the snakes are controlling the mice. Maybe not fat adults, but baby-mice are about right for these slim snakes.
I found a handful of my big dog's hair, and some pine-fluff, tucked neatly on top of my car engine. As the dog can't open the hood, I bet a mouse or squirrel is preparing a winter nest. On another forum someone posted gear-sensor wires chewed right to the nub, and other toothy damage.
I had not put zero and four together. We are out in the woods. We should have mice. We only had one in 7 years here. We do have garden/garter snakes, I flush one every time I mow. I'm now realizing that the snakes are controlling the mice. Maybe not fat adults, but baby-mice are about right for these slim snakes.
I found a handful of my big dog's hair, and some pine-fluff, tucked neatly on top of my car engine. As the dog can't open the hood, I bet a mouse or squirrel is preparing a winter nest. On another forum someone posted gear-sensor wires chewed right to the nub, and other toothy damage.
We used to have squirrels that ate though the aluminum AC power line drop from the telephone pole to our house. Happened several times. There were some impressive signs of arcing on the wire insulation in some of the places where it was bitten though. Never found any dead squirrels on the ground under the wire, though. Eventually talked the power company into replacing the aluminum wire with copper. That fixed the problem. Apparently, squirrels like to use aluminum to sharpen their teeth.
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