Thought this product was worth researching: LineX Australia
After seeing this video: YouTube
Would be an interesting application for coating a rock guard and/or the fuel tank with it. Wouldn't have to worry about stones then.
After seeing this video: YouTube
Would be an interesting application for coating a rock guard and/or the fuel tank with it. Wouldn't have to worry about stones then.
In my case it wasn't far from the truth. The rebuilt alternators from that parts store were total junk but the parts counter guy could actually find the right part and knew hat he was doing.
In the years that I spent building cars (80's and early 90's) these "books" were nearly a foot thick, were mounted on a stand, and were always somewhere in view in a junkyard. They looked like the big "breakdown" books the car dealerships have that break down each major assembly (like an engine) into smaller assemblies each with further breakdowns and part numbers. I haven't done this in years, but I would guess that today's version in some sort of computerized subscription service. It's possible that the Hollander stuff is only used in the US, but something like it must exist in each major car market.
I didn't actually have a friend at a dealership, I had friends who worked at car repair shops, who paid a different price for parts at the dealership than the average customer. He introduced me to the parts girl at a local Chrysler dealership and told her that I worked with him and should get the "net" price, not the "list" price. For some parts the discount was substantial.
The usual path is through car clubs, car show events and racing events.
I showed up at all of the local car shows, many of the local autocross and drag racing events, either to race, or to watch, and was a member of a local car club that catered to Chrysler branded vehicles. At the time the mid 80's turbo Dodge cars were fairly common at these events.
There were 5 people who had similar cars where I worked, and some times we would all show up at the track or a car show together and draw some attention. A coworker had managed to stuff a 350 cubic inch (5.7L) ChevroLET engine into an 80's TOYOta Supra, thus creating a TOYOLET as his car's badge proclaimed. When he showed up and drew lots of attention, finding friends with similar cars was easy.
Way back in the mid 70's I had a 1973 GMC (Chevrolet) van. It's automatic transmission had blown and I decided to rebuild it. I had already rebuilt the engine since it was sick when I bought the van (cheap). I took it out of the van and disassembled it one piece at a time taking a Polaroid picture of each piece numbering and making notes on each picture. The digital camera had not yet been invented.
So this greasy, dirty 25 year old kid (me) shows up at the local Chevrolet with a broken part or two and a stack of pictures looking for a replacement. At first the older guy behind the parts counter is not happy about looking up the internals of a TurboHydramatic 350 transmission, but eventually lets me look through the breakdown book to find the part numbers, and he orders me some parts. By the time those parts come in, I need more. On about the third trip, he asks if it would help if he gave me an old (discarded) version of the breakdown manual. He was basically making life easier on himself by getting me out of his hair, but that breakdown manual was a big help when it became time to put that thing back together. We became friends through these visits and I talked to him at the Chevy store whenever I went there. After about 3 years and 50,000 miles of abuse from being between a hot rodded V8 engine and a 4,000 pound van being driven by my lead foot, the trans would blow again. This time I went to see my friend with one long list and got a 10% discount on the parts.
Fast forward to the mid 2000's. I am building the "last hot rod." The TorqueFilte 727 needs rebuild as did EVERYTHING in the car. This time app parts are sourced from the internet and the photos are digital. Primitive 3 megapixel digital, but a step up from the old Polaroid instant camera.
The transmission is on the "operating table" which is a steel shelf on a Black and Decker Workmate under a makeshift awning in the back yard. The car has been stripped and painted and reassembly has begun. The front and rear suspensions, Sure Grip rear end, and braking systems are new or rebuilt. A 500+ HP 440 Cubic inch (7.2L) engine is built and waits nearby. So does several packages of transmission parts.
The book will tell you that a special puller is required to get the front pump housing off. The dumb blonde will show you how to do this with a piece of chain, two bolts, a 10 pound exercise weight, and a bit of momentum.
About 100 pictures were taken of each step during the disassembly. All parts suitable for reuse were cleaned and sorted by subassembly. Replacement parts were ordered for anything that didn't look suitable for abuse.
Complete transmission kit, some assembly required.....
OK lets hang this thing......about 600 pounds of heavy metal.
OK, there's enough parts on this thing for.......a big smoky burnout.
The ninth picture shows the house across the street. The brown car in the driveway is a Mercury Comet, which is also sold as a Ford Maverick and I believe was also the basis for the Aussie Falcon in the early / mid 70's.
Line X is a popular truck bed liner here in the US. Some people have been known to use it for coating speaker cabinets, particularly those used for guitar amps that get moved around a lot.
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It was the coolant temperature sensor. Not only now in the past have I confirmed that the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) is faulty and giving the computer false information.
But I also now know for certain that inserting a 470 ohm resistor into the female socket of where the ECT plugs in also fixes the problem entirely.
But thats not all!
After running it for 10 minutes not only is the fuel tank not empty but all of the residual fuel out of the tailpipe is completely gone, entirely. Replaced only by a slight bit of the usual smoke that comes out of every other car tailpipe.
So I might be able to go and take it for a drive tomorrow when the replacement ECT arrives at the auto store. But some tweaking of the engine idle might be needed. Also I do need some new brake pads.
But I also now know for certain that inserting a 470 ohm resistor into the female socket of where the ECT plugs in also fixes the problem entirely.
But thats not all!
After running it for 10 minutes not only is the fuel tank not empty but all of the residual fuel out of the tailpipe is completely gone, entirely. Replaced only by a slight bit of the usual smoke that comes out of every other car tailpipe.
So I might be able to go and take it for a drive tomorrow when the replacement ECT arrives at the auto store. But some tweaking of the engine idle might be needed. Also I do need some new brake pads.
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Replaced the ECT sensor this morning and ran the car and flushed out the exhaust and then took it for a drive and flushed it out some more and then it was fine after about half an hour. One thing I noticed was that it took slightly longer than usual to start the car, 4 seconds instead of the usual 2 seconds.
Now this afternoon when the engine was cold again I took it for another drive, no smoke at all. But then I stopped suddenly and a little bit of smoke came out and the engine nearly died, this was on the flat road. I then drove back home and went up and down some hills and she started to misfire badly and lose power while going up a steep hill.
It wouldn't ever do it anywhere else and in fact it felt like it had tons of power out on the highway whenever the road was flat.
I took it home and she started to cough some more just as I was turning into our street, right after stopping suddenly while going slightly downhill.
Sooooooooooo. What does that tell me..... A weak fuel pump.
Now this afternoon when the engine was cold again I took it for another drive, no smoke at all. But then I stopped suddenly and a little bit of smoke came out and the engine nearly died, this was on the flat road. I then drove back home and went up and down some hills and she started to misfire badly and lose power while going up a steep hill.
It wouldn't ever do it anywhere else and in fact it felt like it had tons of power out on the highway whenever the road was flat.
I took it home and she started to cough some more just as I was turning into our street, right after stopping suddenly while going slightly downhill.
Sooooooooooo. What does that tell me..... A weak fuel pump.
negatory my good buddy. All the fuel currently in the tank is brand new, I know cause I filled it up from empty just last week.
Nope this is purely a fuel pump issue I think. Next week I think I'll go and buy an open ring spanner and take the old fuel pump out to get the part number off of it. I feel confident enough to do it myself. I'll be sure to put the sender unit back into the fuel tank after I remove the pump so as to prevent fumes from getting into the cabin, I'll also replace the cabin cover and of course not forget to disconnect the battery first...and discharge my body of static on the chassis of the car.
I got the ECT sensor for $75 too by the way instead of $90 at Bursons parts store. Simply by being friendly and showing up there, the clerk told me that he managed to "pull some strings and get it cheaper".
The car is doing good, it feels great on the road despite the suspension and brakes needing an overhaul, its just needing some proper maintenance after years of neglect by the previous owner. At least he replaced the oil regularly. I would not be surprised if the fuel pump is the original.
That is what you get around here anyway, you run into nothing but cheapskates when you buy a second hand car in this region. They are willing to cover up a problem cheaply or hack something rather than spend money to get something fixed, and they take forever to fix things when they do break. and they are lying and deceitful when selling you a car and in the case of Toyota's they all have high mileage on them, but the sellers, and even close friends will still tell you "300,000km is nothing mate, its just run in" despite tons of stuff needing replacing on them.
And the price of cars isn't cheap, mine was $2,000 and the seller was flat out refusing to negotiate and it just gets worse from there on, you can spend $4k even $7k and get a car that needs another $1,000-$2,000 in repairs just to make it roadworthy or worthwhile keeping.
That is why I got something that I knew what was wrong with it, and I kept the Toyota and scrapped my Ford AU, cause the Fords rust like crazy around here due to the salt air and constant moisture but a Toyota doesn't because the door seams are welded together properly and the metal is galvanized properly at the factory.
I've probably spent $3,500 on this car so far and I have another grand and a half at least to pour into it yet before I can even use it for towing because the suspension is too soft. No point going to a wreckers they either don't have the part or they are in **** poor shape.
I'm just happy to get a car that works and isn't rusting. anything on top of that is a bonus.
Nope this is purely a fuel pump issue I think. Next week I think I'll go and buy an open ring spanner and take the old fuel pump out to get the part number off of it. I feel confident enough to do it myself. I'll be sure to put the sender unit back into the fuel tank after I remove the pump so as to prevent fumes from getting into the cabin, I'll also replace the cabin cover and of course not forget to disconnect the battery first...and discharge my body of static on the chassis of the car.
I got the ECT sensor for $75 too by the way instead of $90 at Bursons parts store. Simply by being friendly and showing up there, the clerk told me that he managed to "pull some strings and get it cheaper".
The car is doing good, it feels great on the road despite the suspension and brakes needing an overhaul, its just needing some proper maintenance after years of neglect by the previous owner. At least he replaced the oil regularly. I would not be surprised if the fuel pump is the original.
That is what you get around here anyway, you run into nothing but cheapskates when you buy a second hand car in this region. They are willing to cover up a problem cheaply or hack something rather than spend money to get something fixed, and they take forever to fix things when they do break. and they are lying and deceitful when selling you a car and in the case of Toyota's they all have high mileage on them, but the sellers, and even close friends will still tell you "300,000km is nothing mate, its just run in" despite tons of stuff needing replacing on them.
And the price of cars isn't cheap, mine was $2,000 and the seller was flat out refusing to negotiate and it just gets worse from there on, you can spend $4k even $7k and get a car that needs another $1,000-$2,000 in repairs just to make it roadworthy or worthwhile keeping.
That is why I got something that I knew what was wrong with it, and I kept the Toyota and scrapped my Ford AU, cause the Fords rust like crazy around here due to the salt air and constant moisture but a Toyota doesn't because the door seams are welded together properly and the metal is galvanized properly at the factory.
I've probably spent $3,500 on this car so far and I have another grand and a half at least to pour into it yet before I can even use it for towing because the suspension is too soft. No point going to a wreckers they either don't have the part or they are in **** poor shape.
I'm just happy to get a car that works and isn't rusting. anything on top of that is a bonus.
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Got the old fuel pump out. Rang up Toyota and after politely giving me the Toyota part number (23221-28280) , I asked for the price of a new one... $751 AUD.
Anyway. I rang up Bursons after that and they said they can get me one for the VCV10R Camry for $200 and its a Denso so I'm going to go for that on Monday.
Today all I did was go down to Bunnings and bought some cheap indian flare nut wrenches for $21. I don't have much money until next pay next week so can't do anything. My neighbor came over and helped out with cracking the fuel hardline nuts for me with a big monkey wrench. I owe him a Pizza.
All he did really was hold the smaller line really steady with the huge monkey wrench and then broke the other nut off with the flare spanner. It took quite a lot of force and I was constantly bending the lines with my two small flare spanners so in came the monkey wrench. He then sat on top of the fuel tank and in between his legs undone the nuts getting some good leverage with the monkey wrench there.
I kept all of the doors open when I was poking around in the gas tank to keep the fumes from building up and then closed it up again when I was finished by putting the sender unit back on top and putting all of the screws back in, then I put the cabin/firewall cover back on over the top of that. Its probably not a good idea to use flash photography around gas tanks either so I just took a few shots without flash.
With all of this wind about I'm really nervous about static.
Anyway. I rang up Bursons after that and they said they can get me one for the VCV10R Camry for $200 and its a Denso so I'm going to go for that on Monday.
Today all I did was go down to Bunnings and bought some cheap indian flare nut wrenches for $21. I don't have much money until next pay next week so can't do anything. My neighbor came over and helped out with cracking the fuel hardline nuts for me with a big monkey wrench. I owe him a Pizza.
All he did really was hold the smaller line really steady with the huge monkey wrench and then broke the other nut off with the flare spanner. It took quite a lot of force and I was constantly bending the lines with my two small flare spanners so in came the monkey wrench. He then sat on top of the fuel tank and in between his legs undone the nuts getting some good leverage with the monkey wrench there.
I kept all of the doors open when I was poking around in the gas tank to keep the fumes from building up and then closed it up again when I was finished by putting the sender unit back on top and putting all of the screws back in, then I put the cabin/firewall cover back on over the top of that. Its probably not a good idea to use flash photography around gas tanks either so I just took a few shots without flash.
With all of this wind about I'm really nervous about static.
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Something tells me that the Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and fuel injector cleaner that I put into the tank 6+ months ago is still in there.
This sample would be a mixture of old fuel (which was mostly gone when I topped it up) and probably 3/4 of fresh fuel.
But if the fuel stabilizer in Lucas is any good then the fuel should still be good too.
So weighing up those options I would have to say that the fuel isn't bad. It looks JUST LIKE stale fuel though...
This sample would be a mixture of old fuel (which was mostly gone when I topped it up) and probably 3/4 of fresh fuel.
But if the fuel stabilizer in Lucas is any good then the fuel should still be good too.
So weighing up those options I would have to say that the fuel isn't bad. It looks JUST LIKE stale fuel though...
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The fuel pump is original and the car has 356,000km on it, I'm not going to let that slide.
I'll replace the fuel pump THEN go and take it for drivies.
As it is now I can barely get it up a hill without it conking out, so it would be dangerous to go and take it for a drive to let the ECU "relearn".
I'll replace the fuel pump THEN go and take it for drivies.
As it is now I can barely get it up a hill without it conking out, so it would be dangerous to go and take it for a drive to let the ECU "relearn".
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Fuel injection is under pressure. I can't see that if the fuel pump delivers the correct pressure when on flat ground that that would change going up a hill. If the pump is so weak that it can't pump fuel up a 10% incline (most hills are not more than that) then it should not be strong enough to pump on flat ground either I would think.
The usual problem with up hill would be if the fuel level was low and the pickup was uncovered thus sucking in air.
It won't hurt to replace the pump, but I'm not convinced it will fix your problem...
Tony.
The usual problem with up hill would be if the fuel level was low and the pickup was uncovered thus sucking in air.
It won't hurt to replace the pump, but I'm not convinced it will fix your problem...
Tony.
yep wintermute. Especially considering that the fuel tank has a smaller tank inside of the fuel tank to prevent exactly the problem that we are getting when going up a hill. The smaller tank has a hole on the side of it to let fuel in and top up the smaller tank when its on the flat. The tank is/was over 1/4 full when I was testing it too.
So it could be that it is simply stale fuel and it hasn't got enough power to pull the engine up a hill when its under load. If that is the case then tubelab is correct again in predicting the future. spooky.
So it could be that it is simply stale fuel and it hasn't got enough power to pull the engine up a hill when its under load. If that is the case then tubelab is correct again in predicting the future. spooky.
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You mean the road that I use as an acid test before buying a new car? A road nearby here is easily a 20 degree incline.
But my car couldn't even get up a 10 degree incline not far from where these pictures were taken. In the 3rd pic is the stretch of highway that my car failed to climb and I had to throttle back greatly to prevent the engine from conking out completely, which lead me to the conclusion that it may be a possible fuel starvation issue. It still climbed the hill at a lower RPM and it stopped misfiring when I did so.
And yet my car could get up this hill (as shown in pics 1 and 2) when I bought it on the same 1/4 tank level of fuel, but now it doesn't. But I'm sure having an engine that is flooded with fuel would do that haha.
First picture is the view from the top, second is from the bottom.
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With 3/4 of a tank full of fresh fuel and 1/4 of old fuel with the fuel gauge reading at just over 1/4 full. I still find it hard to believe that the 1/4 of old fuel still left in the tank was enough to cause it to cough and sputter and struggle to get up the 10 degree inclined hill.
And it is that which has led me to believe that the fuel pump was at fault.
Lets go through the checklist again shall we:
new injectors
functioning fuel regulator (tested: YouTube )
plenty of spark
new rotor/dizzy button
new leads
new spark plugs
doesn't consume oil (never has)
doesn't consume coolant
fumes from exhaust was always excessive fuel not water (except for that time that I suspected that I crossed over coolant lines to the intake manifold, but corrected that)
new O2 sensors
new air cleaner
new fuel filter
new rubber fuel return lines
properly sealed intake air manifold (all new gaskets)
no vacuum leaks (as far as I can tell, there might still be one)
new tappet cover gaskets and new moulded rubber intake hose (whenever I remove the oil filler cap the engine revs down then compensates = leading me to conclude that there isn't a vacuum leak on the tappet covers and/or intake hose between the AFM and the intake manifold, also this moulded rubber intake hose is brand new, replaced by my mechanic 2 years ago, see first attached picture below)
no excessive blow-by (tested when I bought the car by removing the oil filler cap when the engine was running)
new battery leads and new earth points on the chassis (used 200 grit sandpaper to sand back the paint then sprayed over this area with spray putty once the lugs were bolted down)
all new rubber vacuum lines and hydraulic lines
new thermostatic solenoid for the EVAP recirculation system (90925-05068)
Only things left are:
fuel pump (prime suspect, especially considering it probably has 356,000km on it)
AFM meter (presumed repaired/fixed with an application of Deoxit Fader F5)
ignition coil & igniter
I've tested spark with my little neon light spark testing tool and every cylinder is getting plenty of spark. So the ignition coil & igniter is not high on my suspicion list.
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In other words the gas tank was registering 1/16th full when I topped it off with 15 liters of fresh fuel (and brung it up to just over 1/4 full) from a jerry can on the day that I went for a drive. So there was a mixture of 1/4 stale and 3/4 fresh fuel in the tank and the fuel gauge registered just over 1/4 full when I took it for a test drive. It felt like it had tons of get up and go on the flat roads, it never smoked after a while of running and it never misfired. It wasn't until I decided to start to drive back home and I went up that 10 degree incline (and decline) that it started to act up again. It acted up when I hit the brakes hard on the flat and on an incline and when I tried climbing the hill.
So there was probably 3-5 liters of old stale fuel left in the tank before I topped it off with 15 liters of fresh fuel then took it for a drive, and it struggled on the 10 degree hill then.
So dunno, could be the remaining stale fuel, could be the fuel pump, could be something else, could be the ECU needing to relearn. doubt its fuel starvation issues with the fuel sloshing around as the pump was (at least half way from memory) covered when I lifted the sender unit assembly off the gas tank. So that just leaves a weak fuel pump or stale fuel or some other problem I've yet to discover.
All I know for sure is that Monday I'm putting a new fuel pump AND fuel into it as I'm out of options. And some new cheap front brake pads. And possibly driving it over to get a pink slip done (roadworthy inspection) if it doesn't act up anymore.
If it does act up I might end up leaving it at my mechanics to find out the cause of whats wrong as I've pretty much exhausted most possibilities.
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I can think of one thing that may be a problem (assuming your car has one) and that is the throttle position sensor.
To get up that hill without slowing down you need to open the throttle up wider. If the throttle potentiometer is giving false information it may be under-fueling when the throttle is in a particular position.
Do you have any problems with erratic idle? revs dropping, then climing up to higher than it should at idle, and then dropping back down again, sometimes even stalling?
I had one go ( I think I killed it when I used throttle body cleaner) and the car would just go from 800rpm to 4000 rpm and back down in a continuous cycle, without touching the accelerator at all!
Another problem I've experienced was the car dying under acceleration, but would behave when going at a constant speed. As soon as you started to accelerate it would die like the injectors had been shut off. after about 12 days my mechanic gave up trying to find the fault. The computer was giving codes that Peugeot said couldn't exist. The ECU was sent for testing and tested perfectly.
In the end he sent it to a guy with a reputation for finding the hardest faults. He fixed it within two days. Part of the wiring loom had been rubbing on the body and had worn through to bare wire on one wire. When accelerating the small amount of movement of the engine due to the extra toque caused that wire to short onto some part of the body and the engine would shut down momentarily (causing it to come off the body and start running again, immediately causing a sudden surge that caused the wire to short again.
I Also had my Morris die on me when the vacuum advance in the distributor went haywire. That was another situation where the car would idle fine, but as soon as you opened up the throttle the car would start to die and backfire. I was stuck at a major 5 way intersection, but something told me that increased throttle would mean increased vaccum so I disconnected the vacuum advance hose and was able to drive to my destination. I had to get a new vacuum advance unit but it was one of the weirdest faults I've had to deal with. The modern day equivalent would be a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor.
Tony.
To get up that hill without slowing down you need to open the throttle up wider. If the throttle potentiometer is giving false information it may be under-fueling when the throttle is in a particular position.
Do you have any problems with erratic idle? revs dropping, then climing up to higher than it should at idle, and then dropping back down again, sometimes even stalling?
I had one go ( I think I killed it when I used throttle body cleaner) and the car would just go from 800rpm to 4000 rpm and back down in a continuous cycle, without touching the accelerator at all!
Another problem I've experienced was the car dying under acceleration, but would behave when going at a constant speed. As soon as you started to accelerate it would die like the injectors had been shut off. after about 12 days my mechanic gave up trying to find the fault. The computer was giving codes that Peugeot said couldn't exist. The ECU was sent for testing and tested perfectly.
In the end he sent it to a guy with a reputation for finding the hardest faults. He fixed it within two days. Part of the wiring loom had been rubbing on the body and had worn through to bare wire on one wire. When accelerating the small amount of movement of the engine due to the extra toque caused that wire to short onto some part of the body and the engine would shut down momentarily (causing it to come off the body and start running again, immediately causing a sudden surge that caused the wire to short again.
I Also had my Morris die on me when the vacuum advance in the distributor went haywire. That was another situation where the car would idle fine, but as soon as you opened up the throttle the car would start to die and backfire. I was stuck at a major 5 way intersection, but something told me that increased throttle would mean increased vaccum so I disconnected the vacuum advance hose and was able to drive to my destination. I had to get a new vacuum advance unit but it was one of the weirdest faults I've had to deal with. The modern day equivalent would be a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor.
Tony.
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