Interesting video. You can see how you might fit. Though taking the back off the seat is extreme. You can just take the foam out, keeping the side bolstering and general look of a seat. He seems to only recognise people taking out a bit of the foam you sit on. It's coined the name: foamectomy
Population booms are ruining our fun to. Not just from people having more than two kids, but certain newcomers who feel they must still have their traditional tribe of kids, like most will die of famine or religion. I'm not continuing with this line of conversation though, somebody will feel guilty enough to say I'm talking about them.
A 94 Miata like his is well under $3000 isn't it? Don't get a later one, they get smaller inside, except for the height of the doors and bulkheads. Which are family car height. Which is no use to anybody. I had one for the time it took to sell it.
I have an 89. Torsen diff. Fully adjustable double wishbones all round. Thicker anti-roll bars. Coilovers. TD04 Turbo conversion. All me, including the mapping. If that was $3000 American, you could have it. I'm not sure what your dollars are, I'm sorry to say.
500km... On dirt, hell yeah. Over 70mph? No, they rev to high for sustained use at that speed. Fine for a special occasion, like a track visit. Not every day though. Perhaps weekly. It depends if your exhaust is compliant
They rev out at 133 (or more) which is about 3600rpm@70 so is doable. Isn't a 70 limit for doing 90-110 though?
Population booms are ruining our fun to. Not just from people having more than two kids, but certain newcomers who feel they must still have their traditional tribe of kids, like most will die of famine or religion. I'm not continuing with this line of conversation though, somebody will feel guilty enough to say I'm talking about them.
A 94 Miata like his is well under $3000 isn't it? Don't get a later one, they get smaller inside, except for the height of the doors and bulkheads. Which are family car height. Which is no use to anybody. I had one for the time it took to sell it.
I have an 89. Torsen diff. Fully adjustable double wishbones all round. Thicker anti-roll bars. Coilovers. TD04 Turbo conversion. All me, including the mapping. If that was $3000 American, you could have it. I'm not sure what your dollars are, I'm sorry to say.
500km... On dirt, hell yeah. Over 70mph? No, they rev to high for sustained use at that speed. Fine for a special occasion, like a track visit. Not every day though. Perhaps weekly. It depends if your exhaust is compliant
They rev out at 133 (or more) which is about 3600rpm@70 so is doable. Isn't a 70 limit for doing 90-110 though?If you’re thinking about more grip for your Camry, you’d be best to consider the entire package from where the tire meets the road to where the springs seat. Often the factory setup is a decent balance, and only by careful tuning/altering of the wheel rates along with the tire upgrades, will you maintain that balance.
Doesn’t have to cost an insane amount either, but something to consider.
I’ve had great results using the rubber spring blocking, by getting the super thick ones and then carving them to a thinner profile, so as to just touch the coils at static ride height.
To do that you need to have an understanding of how to calculate the rates of the springs based on their dimensions, as well as an idea of how the car will react to changes front/rear.
Increasing the rates will be effective in small percentages while using the oem strut shocks also, and should only be done in complete turns of the spring so as not to side load the suspension.
Unless you like the lowering springs, but my experience with altering the roll centers of the car has not been good with the off the shelf aftermarket springs.
Doesn’t have to cost an insane amount either, but something to consider.
I’ve had great results using the rubber spring blocking, by getting the super thick ones and then carving them to a thinner profile, so as to just touch the coils at static ride height.
To do that you need to have an understanding of how to calculate the rates of the springs based on their dimensions, as well as an idea of how the car will react to changes front/rear.
Increasing the rates will be effective in small percentages while using the oem strut shocks also, and should only be done in complete turns of the spring so as not to side load the suspension.
Unless you like the lowering springs, but my experience with altering the roll centers of the car has not been good with the off the shelf aftermarket springs.
right so anyway. Please excuse me if I'm talking about myself too much.
I've gotten the new fuel injectors and I've had them checked by my mechanic, they were flow tested and all flowed exactly on the button equal to the others. 800mL/30 seconds was the figure I was quoted, which has got to be incorrect because the 23250-62030 injectors are specced at 240cc/min @ 3 bar.
So anyway. I'll be putting the injectors back in sometime once the weather clears up and start reassembling the engine. I've numbered them all and I will also probably try to clean the intake manifold out a little bit with a couple of bottle brushes and some white spirits, there is plenty of carbon buildup in the intake manifold, I will probably stick pieces of paper down the intake tubes to absorb the white spirits so that it doesn't pool in the cylinders.
Aside from that nothing much to report other than my assorted A/C O-ring kit, A/C Red mineral oil and O ring kit for the compressor has arrived so I can now start reassembling almost everything (gotta wait till next fortnight before I can buy a new condenser and reinstall the radiator).
I've gotten the new fuel injectors and I've had them checked by my mechanic, they were flow tested and all flowed exactly on the button equal to the others. 800mL/30 seconds was the figure I was quoted, which has got to be incorrect because the 23250-62030 injectors are specced at 240cc/min @ 3 bar.
So anyway. I'll be putting the injectors back in sometime once the weather clears up and start reassembling the engine. I've numbered them all and I will also probably try to clean the intake manifold out a little bit with a couple of bottle brushes and some white spirits, there is plenty of carbon buildup in the intake manifold, I will probably stick pieces of paper down the intake tubes to absorb the white spirits so that it doesn't pool in the cylinders.
Aside from that nothing much to report other than my assorted A/C O-ring kit, A/C Red mineral oil and O ring kit for the compressor has arrived so I can now start reassembling almost everything (gotta wait till next fortnight before I can buy a new condenser and reinstall the radiator).
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Don't know if there's anyone else interested in EV's.
But I really like the small EV cars Honda have been showing.
https://www.topspeed.com/cars/honda/2017-honda-sports-ev-concept-ar178062.html
But I really like the small EV cars Honda have been showing.
https://www.topspeed.com/cars/honda/2017-honda-sports-ev-concept-ar178062.html
Who is this Robert Moore? He has the hierarchy totally backwards, and doesn't even know a quattro (that's not a quattro) can drive all 4 wheels. I guess a clueless woman, writing as a man. I hope they're not getting paid for that.
While not well received by car folks, I still push e-bikes as useful vehicles. My city has average speeds of 12mph. Any bike is quicker. Before you even consider that roads don't offer the quickest routes. I'm not sure why someone would rather be in a car, at such times. Allowed to smoke and listen to the radio. That's it. Wasting time, money and your health. It's just so ingrained that people don't see it's a bad option. I just don't have time for that though. Not being able to go out for about 5 hours a day, because I can't get anywhere. I had to find a better way. So a 30mph 'goes anywhere for free' machine was born. Thankfully I'm now out of the city, but I still drive into the burbs and ride my bike the last mile when I must visit. Parking anywhere I please.
Perhaps it's a little rebellious, but I'm not joining in with the sheep. In my city, that would be stupid.
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Not rebellious in the slightest me old scrote'.....
My views would get me banned, so your's will do.
Headed to a car show next Saturday, should be fun, a mile and a half of cars!
http://click4tix.com/_images/2018 GREENWOOD CAR SHOW Event Guide.pdf
http://click4tix.com/_images/2018 GREENWOOD CAR SHOW Event Guide.pdf
Washed the daily beater today. I fall more and more in love with the 1-series every day.
It's just a lovely little car. It even looks happy.
It's only an 118d with 122hp (possibly tuned since one of the previous owners decided to install a 3" exhaust system on it), but it's more fun to drive then my more powerfull 325i.
The 325i is a garage queen that could be replaced with something more fun for sunday drives. Maybe I should replace it with an 1-series with a big engine? 135i would be fun.
It's just a lovely little car. It even looks happy.
It's only an 118d with 122hp (possibly tuned since one of the previous owners decided to install a 3" exhaust system on it), but it's more fun to drive then my more powerfull 325i.
The 325i is a garage queen that could be replaced with something more fun for sunday drives. Maybe I should replace it with an 1-series with a big engine? 135i would be fun.
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That's why I drive old cars. When I bought the 05 325i in 2012 I considered importing a car from Germany. The car would cost $16000 and $18000 to get licence plates on it.
Luckily I found a Norwegian 325i with 6mt for $31k.
Now days the cars are not worth so much. The import taxes drops rapidly the older the car gets up to 10 years.
Bimmers may be a bit expensive, but I know the brand and perform all repairs myself including coding and programming so in the long run it's cheaper then driving around in a new Kia.
Luckily I found a Norwegian 325i with 6mt for $31k.
Now days the cars are not worth so much. The import taxes drops rapidly the older the car gets up to 10 years.
Bimmers may be a bit expensive, but I know the brand and perform all repairs myself including coding and programming so in the long run it's cheaper then driving around in a new Kia.
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Maybe it's common knowledge in bmw circles, but I recently spotted torsen cores on eBay. Reasonably enough priced that I looked again at 1 series ownership. Having not signed up already, due to the open diff in them all. And in all directions you look to find a donor.
edit: Oh, I thought I was on a UK car forum for a moment. I'm here, globally, where maybe some of you do get a real diff
edit: Oh, I thought I was on a UK car forum for a moment. I'm here, globally, where maybe some of you do get a real diff
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Bought a dizzy cap and rotor for my 3VZ-FE Toyota V6 today from Toyota for $99. They gave me an estimate of 3 weeks for it to arrive.
Also went and worked on the car, I pulled back some of the wiring conduit which goes across the timing belt and both of the heads and to the alternator/aircon/oil sensor. I pulled that plastic conduit apart with a flathead screwdriver (pushed out the little clips) and I replaced the old plastic split loom conduit and re-wrapped the wiring in new duct tape at least twice.
Didn't do much but I'm not ready to put the A/C compressor back in yet as I still haven't gotten around to rebuilding it with the gasket kit.
Also went and worked on the car, I pulled back some of the wiring conduit which goes across the timing belt and both of the heads and to the alternator/aircon/oil sensor. I pulled that plastic conduit apart with a flathead screwdriver (pushed out the little clips) and I replaced the old plastic split loom conduit and re-wrapped the wiring in new duct tape at least twice.
Didn't do much but I'm not ready to put the A/C compressor back in yet as I still haven't gotten around to rebuilding it with the gasket kit.
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Mk1 mx5 turbo 1.8.
Forged rods.
Torsen diff.
Flat shift etc.
345HP Daily driver. 980kg.
Castle combe race track is 6 miles from my house.
Keep a set of slicks in my garden for fun days.
Other car:
2012 Mazda 3 2.2d sport.
Chipped.
227hp.
All optional extras.
Silly cheap buy at £2900!
Most underrated car ive ever had. Handling is superb, power is superb, economic, comfy, front window defrosts in 10 seconds at -10degrees, sound system is the best I've heard, just the best car I've ever had to own. Traded in a 2011 bmw 335d for it- and its soo much better!
Forged rods.
Torsen diff.
Flat shift etc.
345HP Daily driver. 980kg.
Castle combe race track is 6 miles from my house.
Keep a set of slicks in my garden for fun days.
Other car:
2012 Mazda 3 2.2d sport.
Chipped.
227hp.
All optional extras.
Silly cheap buy at £2900!
Most underrated car ive ever had. Handling is superb, power is superb, economic, comfy, front window defrosts in 10 seconds at -10degrees, sound system is the best I've heard, just the best car I've ever had to own. Traded in a 2011 bmw 335d for it- and its soo much better!
Not too much happening on the car front for me. Flex is sidelined as it needs a brake job, so the Fusion is our daily driver.
Had to finish work on it so it could pull my small utility trailer. I just wired in a 4 pin connector into the brake wires, plus some inline fuses, rather than buying an expensive pre-made harness. Also had to pull out the grinder and notch the Class II hitch pin so it would fit my Class I hitch receiver.
Looks like I'll have to do the brakes on the Flex. Had a bad experience with the brakes on the Fusion. Does anybody have a tip for dealing with spin-type calipers, the kind that are now common for rear discs? There is a tendency for the caliper seal to stick to the caliper, stretch, and possibly tear open. I plan to buy nicer brake tools, but the seal problem still worries me.
Had to finish work on it so it could pull my small utility trailer. I just wired in a 4 pin connector into the brake wires, plus some inline fuses, rather than buying an expensive pre-made harness. Also had to pull out the grinder and notch the Class II hitch pin so it would fit my Class I hitch receiver.
Looks like I'll have to do the brakes on the Flex. Had a bad experience with the brakes on the Fusion. Does anybody have a tip for dealing with spin-type calipers, the kind that are now common for rear discs? There is a tendency for the caliper seal to stick to the caliper, stretch, and possibly tear open. I plan to buy nicer brake tools, but the seal problem still worries me.