But you do bring up a good point. I was just thinking today how much modern cars are already a dumpsterfire combined with a moneypit and I'm not too sure that I want to be buying another secondhand car they are in such poor condition and treated so badly by their previous owners.
It makes me worried a lot. I already spent $2k on this car just to get it into my posession, it used to be that you could get a car for $1,000 and it had less than 200,000km on the clock. And I have to spend another grand on it just so I can use it for towing.
If I have to spend $10k on my next car I'm going to seriously consider not getting a car at all. You already have to spend about 4k just to get something in good shape.
I'm on a fixed income and its very low, I cannot afford $4k for a good condition car without taking out a loan. $3k would be insane, $2k I could do.
RBA calculator Inflation Calculator | RBA says that $1,000 in 1995 is worth $1677 in 2016.
That means a $2k car in 1995 would cost $3,355 today.
a $3,000 car in 1995 would cost $5,033 today.
a $4,000 car in 1995 would cost $6,710 today.
Insane!
It makes me worried a lot. I already spent $2k on this car just to get it into my posession, it used to be that you could get a car for $1,000 and it had less than 200,000km on the clock. And I have to spend another grand on it just so I can use it for towing.
If I have to spend $10k on my next car I'm going to seriously consider not getting a car at all. You already have to spend about 4k just to get something in good shape.
I'm on a fixed income and its very low, I cannot afford $4k for a good condition car without taking out a loan. $3k would be insane, $2k I could do.
RBA calculator Inflation Calculator | RBA says that $1,000 in 1995 is worth $1677 in 2016.
That means a $2k car in 1995 would cost $3,355 today.
a $3,000 car in 1995 would cost $5,033 today.
a $4,000 car in 1995 would cost $6,710 today.
Insane!
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Car sellers around here really just want you to buy their polished turd and they will go to incredible lengths to hide or "fix" a problem, anything including spending money on quick fixes than rather actually fix a problem.
Its incredible just how much people will gladly and happily with a smile on their faces lie straight to your face while staring you in the eyes.
Its incredible just how much people will gladly and happily with a smile on their faces lie straight to your face while staring you in the eyes.
That would be my biggest concern too. Ford has been offering it's EcoBoost small engines in large SUV's and pickup trucks for a few years now, and I haven't heard horror stories yet, but so far the majority of consumers still go for the bigger non turbo engines in these vehicles because of the higher initial purchase cost. Our local Ford store had a Mustang with the EcoBoost 4 cylinder engine in it sitting on the lot for over a year. It seems that people still want 500 HP V8's or 300 HP V6's on their "performance cars." The 2.3L EcoBoost 4 cyl offers 310 HP and 350 Ft. Lbs, similar to the V6.
Max torque is clearly stated, 300 NM at 1900 RPM while max power is 200 kW (268 HP for us Americans) at 6000 RPM. That's quite a broad power band and would make for good driveability.
Old school turbo cars (like my boosted 1982 Dodge) have poor low end torque requiring popping the clutch at 3500 RPM then twisting the engine to 7000 RPM before speed shifting to keep the revs up. Direct injection and variable rate turbos have fixed most of that.
It is not common knowledge, even among gear heads, that the relationship between power, torque and RPM is a simple math formula.
In the US HP/ Ft. Pounds system of units it's Power (HP) = Torque (Ft, Lbs) x Speed (RPM) / 5252. For us the HP and torque curves always cross at 5252 RPM.
In the metric kW/Nm system it's Power (kW) = Torque (N.m) x Speed (RPM) / 9.5488
The last Alfa hotrod we put together had these rare Alquati race cams, were 330 degrees duration!
Sounded amazing.
That is a damn shame, the weight savings alone will make the ecoboost engines a better choice.
Yes thanks for that, that is what I get for replying at such a late hour of the night.
In other news. I've been a busy bee.
I've gotten the carpet back onto the rear parcel shelf and the two rear 6x9 "subwoofers" and Pioneer amplifier are ready to be wired up and the rear seats are all back in place ontop of the layer of dynamat which I've laid down.
I also put a metal washer underneath the bonnet latch to make it go lower so that the latching mechanism for the bonnet is working a lot better now. I also had to adjust the drivers side rubber bonnet stop so that the bonnet is at the same level as the side mud guard. The bonnet now pops up with glee/excitement as soon as I've pulled the bonnet release handle inside of the car. Great. Before the bonnet was sticking down and waiting for me to pull it up.
I also sprayed the latching mechanism for the bonnet with WD-40 White Lithium grease so it all works better.
I'm now just waiting for my next payday before I can go and get the fuel injectors ~which have been sitting on my work desk for a week~ cleaned and I can put new o-rings onto them.
Then once that is done I'll be working on the car's A/C system, I'll be going through the car's A/C system and inspecting everything to see what is likely needing replacing. I'll probably do the UV dye leak test methd with a can of refrigerant to pressurize the system because I want to check the evaporator for leaks inside of the car before I proceed any further. Plus I don't have an air compressor and I don't want to buy another one. if the vacuum pump doubles as a compressor then I can use that to check the compressor electrics and check for leaks.
But today I went down and popped a suspect hose (low pressure side) off of the A/C compressor and it hissed/popped at me, I suspected that this hose was leaking for a long time now because it is just covered in oil but I can't be sure because this hose is right underneath the engine oil filler cap. I would have thought that for the length of time that it has been sitting that all gas would've escaped but the fact that it hissed at me has made me think that the hose is still ok...
It all requires investigation anyway. I've never had the opportunity to work on a car's A/C system before because for a very long time you just couldn't buy the refrigerant and components online, but now I can.
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I found out some information about my VCV10/VDV10 1993-1997 Toyota Camry air compressor.
Apparently it uses a Denso 10PA "Series" 17C A/C compressor which a "master reseal kit" are available for it from this website: Denso 10PA15/17 Series Master Reseal Kit KT-10PA-SYS
YouTube
YouTube
Rebuilding the A/C compressor is really easy by the looks of it, just need to take some TLC with the O-Rings and coat them in mineral oil before reassembly and to drain the compressor of fluids and the thread holes of fluids so that it doesn't punch a hole through the back of the soft aluminum body when the bolts are torqued down.
Apparently it uses a Denso 10PA "Series" 17C A/C compressor which a "master reseal kit" are available for it from this website: Denso 10PA15/17 Series Master Reseal Kit KT-10PA-SYS
YouTube
YouTube
Rebuilding the A/C compressor is really easy by the looks of it, just need to take some TLC with the O-Rings and coat them in mineral oil before reassembly and to drain the compressor of fluids and the thread holes of fluids so that it doesn't punch a hole through the back of the soft aluminum body when the bolts are torqued down.
Attachments
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Been mixing this stuff, 350 to 1,
In gasoline engines,
Seems to make quite a difference ...
tc w3 - Google Search
@Phase: Oh, yeah! Fantastic Italian noises, visceral.
I took the radio out of mine, because I only wanted to hear the engine. Being a veteran car stereo installer at the time, that says a lot. Autodelta factory race cams, Shankle headers, big valves, 10.5:1 pistons. Heavenly noise.
I haven't driven it in a few years, but occasionally I dream about it. One of these days it'll be back on the road...
I took the radio out of mine, because I only wanted to hear the engine. Being a veteran car stereo installer at the time, that says a lot. Autodelta factory race cams, Shankle headers, big valves, 10.5:1 pistons. Heavenly noise.
I haven't driven it in a few years, but occasionally I dream about it. One of these days it'll be back on the road...
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YouTube
I thought this was really cool. Being able to repair your own car A/C hoses.
But the crimping tool that you need is like $260 AUD so I might skip on being able to do this and get an A/C shop to crimp some new hoses on for me for my car.
I hate crimping tools.
I'm wondering weather or not I could simply cut off the bellhousing ends of the straight fittings and simply use hose clamps to clamp down onto the fittings instead of having to screw around with buying crimp tools.
Or using splice lok system and getting myself some aluminium pipe to replace the rubber hose that I've got installed in there already, I'm sure that I can bend the pipe to whatever size I want to and make sure that the pipe doesn't rub up against any bodywork.
I thought this was really cool. Being able to repair your own car A/C hoses.
But the crimping tool that you need is like $260 AUD so I might skip on being able to do this and get an A/C shop to crimp some new hoses on for me for my car.
I hate crimping tools.
I'm wondering weather or not I could simply cut off the bellhousing ends of the straight fittings and simply use hose clamps to clamp down onto the fittings instead of having to screw around with buying crimp tools.
Or using splice lok system and getting myself some aluminium pipe to replace the rubber hose that I've got installed in there already, I'm sure that I can bend the pipe to whatever size I want to and make sure that the pipe doesn't rub up against any bodywork.
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YouTube
This seems like a good idea, I wonder if you can do the same for the A/C system. All he's doing is he is cutting the crimp fittings off, deburring the end of the pipe and using a flaring tool to flare the ends of the pipe so that he can put some new rubber hose over the old pipe and putting some hose clamps over it.
Pretty smart if you ask me.
This seems like a good idea, I wonder if you can do the same for the A/C system. All he's doing is he is cutting the crimp fittings off, deburring the end of the pipe and using a flaring tool to flare the ends of the pipe so that he can put some new rubber hose over the old pipe and putting some hose clamps over it.
Pretty smart if you ask me.
I've sent the six fuel injectors in for cleaning today with my regular mechanic. Its going to cost me $120 AUD and I can pick them up tomorrow.
This payday is super tight so I'm really just waiting for next fortnight to start to put things back together. I've only ordered the Denso 10PA17C reseal kit from the USA via Century Auto Air: Featured Products It cost me $25 USD for postage! arrg, for just some rubber seals. arrgg. and $25 USD for the seal kit. arggg. Oh well. $69 AUD all up. Can't complain when you can't get it anywhere else.
Denso 10PA15/17 Series Master Reseal Kit KT-10PA-SYS
I'm going to need to source some 525 viscosity mineral oil (apparently this viscosity is the best for car aircon O-rings, DO NOT use the compressor oil!) Why 525 viscosity mineral oil on O-rings? - Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum
So this payday I've only really got the fuel injectors cleaned, $120 AUD. And ordered the Master reseal kit $69 AUD. I've done literally nothing else the budget is that tight. But I've gotta do these steps first so that I can put the A/C Compressor back in where it belongs and put the fuel injectors back in where that belongs so that I don't have to pull it apart again and take it out later on.
I also ordered an assortment of nitrile rubber O-rings from HK for $6 AUD: 225 PC R22 R134a CAR AIR CONDITIONING HNBR O RING SEAL ASSORTMENT SET X8Q7 Q2O2 192090060498 | eBay
Now I've gotta find someone online or in store who will sell me some 525 viscosity mineral oil so I can coat the O-Rings and do all of the O-rings on the A/C system and get it all ready for reassembly later on. then my shopping is done for this fortnight.
Next payday/fortnight I will be buying the A/C Receiver drier and a new condenser. I'll probably be putting my A/C clutch and bearing back on the compressor as they appear to be fine and more than servicable.
Then I've gotta find someone who is willing to recrimp some rubber hoses, mine are leaking.
This payday is super tight so I'm really just waiting for next fortnight to start to put things back together. I've only ordered the Denso 10PA17C reseal kit from the USA via Century Auto Air: Featured Products It cost me $25 USD for postage! arrg, for just some rubber seals. arrgg. and $25 USD for the seal kit. arggg. Oh well. $69 AUD all up. Can't complain when you can't get it anywhere else.
Denso 10PA15/17 Series Master Reseal Kit KT-10PA-SYS
I'm going to need to source some 525 viscosity mineral oil (apparently this viscosity is the best for car aircon O-rings, DO NOT use the compressor oil!) Why 525 viscosity mineral oil on O-rings? - Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum
So this payday I've only really got the fuel injectors cleaned, $120 AUD. And ordered the Master reseal kit $69 AUD. I've done literally nothing else the budget is that tight. But I've gotta do these steps first so that I can put the A/C Compressor back in where it belongs and put the fuel injectors back in where that belongs so that I don't have to pull it apart again and take it out later on.
I also ordered an assortment of nitrile rubber O-rings from HK for $6 AUD: 225 PC R22 R134a CAR AIR CONDITIONING HNBR O RING SEAL ASSORTMENT SET X8Q7 Q2O2 192090060498 | eBay
Now I've gotta find someone online or in store who will sell me some 525 viscosity mineral oil so I can coat the O-Rings and do all of the O-rings on the A/C system and get it all ready for reassembly later on. then my shopping is done for this fortnight.
Next payday/fortnight I will be buying the A/C Receiver drier and a new condenser. I'll probably be putting my A/C clutch and bearing back on the compressor as they appear to be fine and more than servicable.
Then I've gotta find someone who is willing to recrimp some rubber hoses, mine are leaking.
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Couldn't find anyone anywhere in Aus who would sell me some suitable A/C mineral oil so I'm going to go with Nylog Red, which IS mineral oil.
DIY A/C work in Australia is pretty much unheard of which is a shame because its such a hot country.
Found a source for some Nylog Red RT200R O-ring sealant oil in the USA:
Thread Sealants RT200R Nylog- Gasket/Thread 17857002002 | eBay
DIY A/C work in Australia is pretty much unheard of which is a shame because its such a hot country.
Found a source for some Nylog Red RT200R O-ring sealant oil in the USA:
Thread Sealants RT200R Nylog- Gasket/Thread 17857002002 | eBay
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My AC/Compressor is not working, I wonder whether it is just the clutch. The system is holding pressure. I'm not game to try and work on it myself (though doing the clutch would be ok).
Be very careful with the hoses and fittings, there are high pressures, and I've heard stories of how dangerous it is if you don't know what you are doing.
Tony.
Be very careful with the hoses and fittings, there are high pressures, and I've heard stories of how dangerous it is if you don't know what you are doing.
Tony.
I have a galaxy/alhambra/sharon of the ford badged variety. Bikes go in it stood up. No messing about. It's also a 7 seater. 7 adults in their own chairs. So it's very functional.
I also have a drivers car. The only recipe that will do. RWD front engine and under a ton. The best selling sports car of all time. If you don't know what that is, your not a car person anyway. Ive boosted it and fitted a proper diff and bigger brakes. Thicker anti-roll bars and better suspension. The usual stuff a driver needs. No stereo.
I also have a drivers car. The only recipe that will do. RWD front engine and under a ton. The best selling sports car of all time. If you don't know what that is, your not a car person anyway. Ive boosted it and fitted a proper diff and bigger brakes. Thicker anti-roll bars and better suspension. The usual stuff a driver needs. No stereo.