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The car thread
The car thread
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Old 6th November 2017, 05:47 AM   #21
wintermute is online now wintermute  Australia
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The car thread
Sounds like either way you jump you have quite an outlay. I'd be looking at what the resale value post all of the repairs is likely to be.

If you can get some money for them in their current condition you may find that you can get something better for the combined money from sale + what you would have spent on repairs.

I'm not one to talk though, I get attached to my car, and it would take a lot to stop me repairing. One of the aguments I use when asked why I don't buy a new (as in no more than 2 years old) car is that the cost of repairs for mine is actually less than the depreciation, so provided it's reliable enough I'm happy to spend a bit here and there.

It does sound like the camry is the better bet though. You could do the important stuff (struts/springs and seatbelts, and do the aircond later if you wanted to spread the cost.

The rust and the head gasket on the falcon could lead to much higher costs than you anticipate!

Tony.
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Old 6th November 2017, 06:03 AM   #22
VenusFly is online now VenusFly  Australia
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The car thread
Yeah you hit the nail on the head there wintermute. But I already spent $2k on getting the camry/vienta, $1k on getting the falcon and I bought both expecting no problems, obviously the ford was going to be a problem with its paintjob but I was willing to deal with it at the time and I still am I just don't want to do it myself, I want to pay to get the paint fixed but now that the head gasket is gone and that I've priced a replacement horn/airbag its starting to look less appetizing. And with the camry I bought the car expecting the shocks/struts to not be stuffed, that was slipped by me by the seller. You generally pay a lot here in Newcastle compared to Sydney and I'm not one to go down to sydney to buy a car.

Check out this deal in gosford though:
Lexus LS400 1991 Amazing condition (#1771) | eBay

If I had the money I would jump on it. V8 Lexus in mint condition. It won't sell for $3k though.

The thing that the Camry has going for it is that I can make it look just the same as the lexus with a grille change. The paint is in mint shape, mine has the same two tone paintjob, some people think its lame, I don't.
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Last edited by VenusFly; 6th November 2017 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 6th November 2017, 11:01 PM   #23
TheGimp is offline TheGimp  United States
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I'm trying to replace the heater blend door motor control on a 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis (Ford Crown Victoria) without removing the dash. I've made it far enough to get a visual on the offending assembly. but am having trouble with three fasteners attaching it to the air plenum.

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Old 7th November 2017, 12:23 AM   #24
leadbelly is offline leadbelly  Canada
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I hate dash work. I remember just assuming the flasher was on or next to the interior fuse block of my Ford Contour as it is on most cars and disassembing a big part of the dash before googling it to find out it was underneath the steering column trim.
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Old 7th November 2017, 08:47 AM   #25
VenusFly is online now VenusFly  Australia
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The car thread
Heh.

When I replaced the head unit in my Ford AU Falcon I had to tear it apart. The AU series is notorious for not wanting to let the stock factory head unit out of its resting place even when using release pins inserted into the front fascia. I actually had to tear in half one plastic fascia just to get the original stereo out of the car and then go and buy a replacement plastic fascia from the wreckers which also had the same problem but was done with more patience.

That plastic bit sitting on the center console is the front of the radio, I literally had to remove the front of the radio with a flat head screwdriver just so I could get to the metal pin release/locking mechanism to remove the dual din car stereo.

This is what was left after I was done removing the factory plastic fascia:
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File Type: jpg 36-diyaudio.jpg (78.6 KB, 102 views)
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Old 7th November 2017, 08:58 AM   #26
VenusFly is online now VenusFly  Australia
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The car thread
And here is the job that I done replacing the oil pressure sensor:

It was a lot easier once I got the fuel rail and intake manifold off. The coil pack being underneath the intake manifold and fuel rail is just another silly design flaw by ford. Its virtually impossible to remove the coil pack from underneath the car or from the top because the intake manifold is so huge and you cannot get your hands in to do the job. Its a sort of job that if you were to do it without removing the intake manifold that you would need those ratcheting swiveling o ring spanners and get to it from underneath while its on a lift.
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File Type: jpg 39-diyaudio.jpg (95.6 KB, 101 views)
File Type: jpg 40-diyaudio.jpg (92.7 KB, 93 views)
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Last edited by VenusFly; 7th November 2017 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 7th November 2017, 09:38 AM   #27
wintermute is online now wintermute  Australia
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The car thread
Looks like yours suffered the same fault as mine! ie sprung a leak and pissed oil everywhere!

Similar drama's to do mine (if you think fords are bad try working on a French car )

I've got it down pat now (having pulled the gearbox and the starter motor as well).

Battery box out.
grill off
headlight out
throttle piping off
Throttle body off
Inlet manifold off

Ah that's better!

I've learnt with the pug, if anything at all is making access difficult it is best just to remove it!

Oil pressure sender arrowed.

Tony.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg getting_access.jpg (291.3 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg leaky.jpg (696.0 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg replaced.jpg (596.8 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg together.jpg (294.2 KB, 39 views)
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Old 7th November 2017, 09:47 AM   #28
VenusFly is online now VenusFly  Australia
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The car thread
haha neat.

Though On mine you cannot remove completely the intake manifold which disappointed me somewhat because I wanted to clean it out and replace the gaskets, because the wiring assembly goes through one of the gaps. To remove the intake manifold I bet you would have to remove the entire wiring going all the way back to the gearbox, or cut a notch in the intake manifold where theres a bit of streghtening/stiffening metal that goes across between one intake plenum and another.

Thats why in the first picture the intake manifold isnt completely removed its just crocked up there on the side of the head.

You can see in the second picture where the wiring assembly goes through the gap between two of the intake plenums. You would think to yourself that you can simply feed the wiring loom through the gap or simply move it to the left, nope, because there is a huge connector that is on that wiring assembly and that connector doesn't fit through the gap. Goodness knows how they managed to get this thing together the way they did at the factory, I guess it was all made in combination with the intake manifold.

Anyway I cleaned the intake ports out as best as I could with some degreaser and a wire brush, replaced the oil pressure sensor and put it all back together.
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Last edited by VenusFly; 7th November 2017 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 7th November 2017, 09:54 AM   #29
wintermute is online now wintermute  Australia
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Mine comes off completely with the removal of a few vacuum hoses. The first time I pulled it off was at about 245,000KM it was really really gunked up inside! The crank case breather circuit puts quite a bit of oil vapour through it over that many KM!

Tony.
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Old 7th November 2017, 10:09 AM   #30
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Yeah there's nothing like a good intake cleaning to spruce things up a bit.
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