I strongly suspect mm is taking the p15s out of all of the newbies who post such ridiculous requests, who have no idea about electronics or audio, and who also only have a very fleeting grasp of their native language which is reflected in their very poor writing skills, usually full of text-speak.
Then again, I might be wrong? (But I doubt it.)
Then again, I might be wrong? (But I doubt it.)
Last edited:
The OP left out the part where the newbie poster asks how to calculate component values and frequency poles but then admits that calculus, algebra and arithmetic are beyond him so could someone do the sums for him and just tell him the answer? At this point I am sometimes tempted to ask if he understands what the Y in DIY stands for, but that might appear rude so I usually keep quiet.
There is also the poster who has found (somewhere) a circuit for a headphone amp using a 12AT7 but asks if someone could help him convert it into a phono preamp using a 6DJ8. When we say that this is not easy we are accused of being ignorant or unhelpful.
There is also the poster who has found (somewhere) a circuit for a headphone amp using a 12AT7 but asks if someone could help him convert it into a phono preamp using a 6DJ8. When we say that this is not easy we are accused of being ignorant or unhelpful.
what kind of subs ru using? that kind of power is gonna be totally wasted unless its for something like a front loaded horn that goes down to at least 20Hz.....
Curiously, that part of the request sometimes appears around post 15 when some of us have started asking awkward questions about the apparently strange requirements of this 'DIY' project. For example, it must use BJT alone or be exactly 3dB down at 22kHz or be more than 80% efficient.dchisholm said:
For the benefit of any students reading this, we are happy to help you to understand audio electronics but most of us are not happy to help you to cheat in assignments. Tell us if it is an assignment; if you don't tell us we will probably spot it anyway but then we may suspect you are being dishonest. We will help you understand the problem and may suggest possible solutions but most of us won't do the work for you.
The text-like spelling and missing punctuation were a bit of a giveaway from a regular forum member!
I would like to build a nuclear power station in my garden, but I have forgotten what little nuclear physics I once knew. Could somebody please help me? I don't know how to do a criticality calculation. I'm having trouble finding a supplier of suitable graphite blocks and boron-rich steel - do you think Mooser or Pharknell might stock them?
I would like to build a nuclear power station in my garden, but I have forgotten what little nuclear physics I once knew. Could somebody please help me? I don't know how to do a criticality calculation. I'm having trouble finding a supplier of suitable graphite blocks and boron-rich steel - do you think Mooser or Pharknell might stock them?
Those can be quite dangerous when handled improperly. My advice is stick to 5kW amps.
The important thing to remember about that range are the big differences between the short-term (usually hourly) and the long-term models. The short-term keep that appearance for an extended period, whereas the long-term quickly have major chassis alignment issues.
The "air"bags, while appearing to offer crash protection are only their to ensure a quick "sale". It has been said by many that, in fact, the larger the "air"bags, the less protection offered in the case of a crash. Their are documented cases where the larger "air"bags have caused considerable property damage, as well as psychological injury.
My advice, is to go with a 10kW amp; it is still safer. (Don't ask me how I know this.)
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.