In the loft I have a headsheel with offset and grub screw, no idea how it got in my loft or from which arm. I think I will take some dowel and make a stainless collar to allow adjustments. Super glue the collar to the wood. To simplify I will use a Unipivot. They have lovely sound when as good as the Naim Aro which in theory I own if it ever comes home.
From what I read the counterweight set at it's centre at the stylus point level works well. I wonder if I could build an electromagnetic bias. All it needs is a position sensor to switch it on. I suspect only the last 15 % of the record needs it. Rega use a shaped magnet . I hate pieces of nylon and weights. Arms with no anti skating sound more dynamic. As they reach the end the stereo suffers.
Often arms need no sheilding if some care is taken over positioning. Mostly this sounds better. I like the idea of an 8 pin DIL socket.
The AR arm sounds very good. I would not replace it. It loves the DL 110.
In the text he speaks of C37. Google translate coped with this much of C37.
" All previous attempts of science to solve the mystery of the musical sound,
have failed so far. This compares with the incredibly rich treasure of experiences of
Instrument maker who just in earlier centuries, as the impact of science yet
was negligible, had their greatest successes. So it had to be an important acoustic detail,
which has been completely overlooked in research. The aim of my work was, this "missing link"
to explore.
My technical training, my early passion for high fidelity and my professional
Activities as a sound engineer had a first cornerstone of my work. The more important part of my
Education came next: A Geigenbaulehre to a master in Mittenwald and the study of
Violin and vocals. This was followed by hard backbreaking work of exploration of the violin sound. A years of submarining through countless experiments led me finally to the hot track:
The extremely important question of materials (wood and paint quality) left the question of a reference quality,
emerge after a sonic dimension.
This reference sound I finally found in human bones and in human tissue.
A detailed analysis revealed that the carbon is the sound-determining element, and be there
Sound is also determined by body temperature, I chose as an abbreviation for this sound structure "
Copywrite respected.
" All previous attempts of science to solve the mystery of the musical sound,
have failed so far. This compares with the incredibly rich treasure of experiences of
Instrument maker who just in earlier centuries, as the impact of science yet
was negligible, had their greatest successes. So it had to be an important acoustic detail,
which has been completely overlooked in research. The aim of my work was, this "missing link"
to explore.
My technical training, my early passion for high fidelity and my professional
Activities as a sound engineer had a first cornerstone of my work. The more important part of my
Education came next: A Geigenbaulehre to a master in Mittenwald and the study of
Violin and vocals. This was followed by hard backbreaking work of exploration of the violin sound. A years of submarining through countless experiments led me finally to the hot track:
The extremely important question of materials (wood and paint quality) left the question of a reference quality,
emerge after a sonic dimension.
This reference sound I finally found in human bones and in human tissue.
A detailed analysis revealed that the carbon is the sound-determining element, and be there
Sound is also determined by body temperature, I chose as an abbreviation for this sound structure "
Copywrite respected.
To complete the 74HC4060 story. 10 nF NPO is the last of the low cost options ( Ceramic, polyprop, polystyrene ). Here although not perfect it is closer to predictions. The 1Hz flash is useful for testing. Switch off in use would be better or very stiff 5V PSU. Here 67.5Hz is near perfect. The others were just ball park. The downside is each example made will need fine tuning.
Just restested the above as unhappy it didn't agree with the trends. Results much better than my notes. 10 nF ( 9.91 ) 3K72 is exactly 50 Hz ( 50.0008 Hz ) . With additional 18K is 60 Hz (60.03 not 67.5 ) and 2K755 total is 67.5 Hz 10K510. 18 K and 10K5 on my drawing got swapped. Within how it works the resistor is exactly what it should be. The final values warmed up are almost exactly 50/60/67.5 Hz.
After much testing this idea seems best. The stability of the 470 pF NPO is excellent. The Chebishev filter is ideal for getting rid of the harmonics quickly and cheaply. The simple buffered passive filter ensures correct phase shift. The 430 R should be 390 R + 240 R if wanting it nearly exact. Better to use no gain for op amp No1 and 2 x 10 K on op amp No 2 ( not 1 K 430 R ). The 60 Hz and 117 Hz options just for my interest. Ron for a 74HC 4060 is about 280R at the oscillator outputs. 1K is about the lowest value, 78 gets close to that. Most 250 RPM motors are OK at 67.5 Hz but not at 117 Hz. The LED is for testing only.
There is quite a lot to recomend this idea. It is not any more complicated than a SVF ( less I think ) and more likely to work first time. It will slightly outperform a simple SVF by about 6 dB. The Chebishev makes it possible. As it is a single frequency the Chebishev ringing / ripple is not a problem.
I wish I knew. When I look at a car, I look at the pieces that make it work. The outside if you like is just the pastry case. We have a pub that does various pies in Deddington. I always have steak and ale. How boring. They are famed for the range they do.
Problem recently is lots of paid for work. No time to play with turntable drives. I have found a Linn LVV arm in my junk pile. I might try to give it a wooden arm tube. I have a spare DL110 to use. This will be with a Garrard 401 for now. Might be with Ortofon MC25 calibration sample.
I might use 3 wire arm wiring. Anyone see a reason not to ?
Problem recently is lots of paid for work. No time to play with turntable drives. I have found a Linn LVV arm in my junk pile. I might try to give it a wooden arm tube. I have a spare DL110 to use. This will be with a Garrard 401 for now. Might be with Ortofon MC25 calibration sample.
I might use 3 wire arm wiring. Anyone see a reason not to ?
IOW mono-ing of HF, no bad thing...and induced noises are in dead mono also....important.
Dan.
1700watt Half Moon Shape Element for Neff Fan Oven 494643. Equivalent to part number 00494643: Amazon.co.uk: Large Appliances
I was doing cooker repairs yesterday. The Bosch Half-moon element is about 33R6 ( two samples were the same to < 0R1 ). It is in two halves, I presume a 115 V version exists or was planned for? If used as if 115V it becomes 8R4 and will be very tough. My kettle whilst being water cooled is 21R4 which is less useful. The water cooling being an advatage in both cooling and keeping the resistance reasonably fixed. If no more than 40 V rms I see no reason why the Bosch element could not be water cooled. 70 % in the water to avoid the contacts getting wet. Add 168 R if wanting 8R ( 6 x 1K 1W should be OK up to 30 V rms or about 100 watts ).
I was doing cooker repairs yesterday. The Bosch Half-moon element is about 33R6 ( two samples were the same to < 0R1 ). It is in two halves, I presume a 115 V version exists or was planned for? If used as if 115V it becomes 8R4 and will be very tough. My kettle whilst being water cooled is 21R4 which is less useful. The water cooling being an advatage in both cooling and keeping the resistance reasonably fixed. If no more than 40 V rms I see no reason why the Bosch element could not be water cooled. 70 % in the water to avoid the contacts getting wet. Add 168 R if wanting 8R ( 6 x 1K 1W should be OK up to 30 V rms or about 100 watts ).
A week or so ago. I showed a PSU I bashed together in about 10 minutes. Inside the dotted lines the ready made part that runs my phono stage. Looking at the space in the box I was able to do a small bit of upgrading. The LED now is also a circuit active light. The 10 uF a high grade, I am sure 1 uF would do. The 4400 uF is 2 x 2200 uF 16V and a 2u2 100 V polyester on thick flying wires ( 470 uF internal ). From the word go this PSU sounds good. It was meant only as a try out. The 12 V side is only 6 mA so very quiet. Used with 20 bit Flying Calf DAC.
I put out a request for a NAD 3020 mk1. For $20 I have one that looks to have been down a coal mine, then in a river. Hum was the only fault! C905/6 replaced and a few others showning white salts. Two hours work. Doubtless some others will give up one day. I have always speculated that 3020 and my Magnepan ( SMGa ) would work. My goodness do they. Thanks to my mate Malcom for finding the NAD. It was so bad as to need an oily rag to cover the rust. I will respray it when I am doing some other things. What a fine amp it is. Real RCA 3055 and 2955. A very useful amp as the pre and power amp split. For all the balck dust inside and rust the PCB was perfect. I replaced two fuse holders also. They die as soon as touched. Modern ones by Camden Boss fit OK.
Those jacks between the preamp and power amp are a great idea.
As my 3020 slowly had switches fail, then the level control get noisy, I just feed the keyboard output into the power amp when using headphones, and adjust the level at the keyboard.
Acquired around 1980, and left on a lot, finally one electrolytic in the auxiliary supply began to open. I replaced both, and was ready to replace the main bulk caps---but they measured just fine, so I left them alone. Another in diyaudio warned that the adhesive that secures the bulk caps was prone to react chemically and eat into the caps, but I saw no evidence of that. Maybe they changed the adhesive. Another was derisive about the power amp topology, with its single input device and diode bias, but it manages nicely and achieves an adequate slew rate. And as you mentioned, real TO-3 case output devices. Try finding those today that are not counterfeit!
Hi Brad,
When the adhesive is yellow, you're okay. As it turns to brown it will corrode metal while also becoming resistive. Finally when it gets closer to black the bulk resistance does conduct electricity. Enough to cause circuits from remote control lines and D/A converters to totally malfunction. With the green copper you might swear the problem is water over a long period of time.
Nasty stuff. I remove it whenever I notice it. They even used it for gluing modifications down to the PCB. Without surprise, it eats any traces underneath (where you can't see it). The only things more destructive are cat urine and those leaky capacitors. The glue will stay yellow on the outer layer as the bottom one begins a shift to brown. Better safe than sorry.
More often than not, solid state filter capacitors tend to be okay when everything else has degraded. I check them with an oscilloscope. Look for a "pip" on the front of the charging waveform across the capacitor. You'll have an easier time with AC coupling.
-Chris
When the adhesive is yellow, you're okay. As it turns to brown it will corrode metal while also becoming resistive. Finally when it gets closer to black the bulk resistance does conduct electricity. Enough to cause circuits from remote control lines and D/A converters to totally malfunction. With the green copper you might swear the problem is water over a long period of time.
Nasty stuff. I remove it whenever I notice it. They even used it for gluing modifications down to the PCB. Without surprise, it eats any traces underneath (where you can't see it). The only things more destructive are cat urine and those leaky capacitors. The glue will stay yellow on the outer layer as the bottom one begins a shift to brown. Better safe than sorry.
More often than not, solid state filter capacitors tend to be okay when everything else has degraded. I check them with an oscilloscope. Look for a "pip" on the front of the charging waveform across the capacitor. You'll have an easier time with AC coupling.
-Chris
Thanks for that! Yes, the color iirc was a yellowish white, and of course in that vicinity the impedances were very low. And it is on the component side of the single-sided board as well, so no way to easily corrode copper.
One nasty recent discovery: I have had drawers of electrolytics, mostly decent brands like Nichicon, for years. I had the need for something to brute-force bypass a 15V zener in a cheap-and-dirty current source feeding tubes under test, so I pulled out some 2200uF/16V ones. They are all to some degree or another, leaking electrolyte! Except there was one that must be more recent, and although less than a prestige brand, was not leaking and worked fine to bypass most of the audio-band zener noise.
Time to replenish the "junk" boxes in that particular case.
For repairing the NAD 3020 I used what I had. For 2 x 330 uF 35 V I used 4 x 220 uF 63 V. The extra one under the PCB. The 220 uF are not high grade. Being 63 V types they have better tan theta as a rule. The 4u7 35 V had to be 10 uF 50 V Nichicon. 47 uF 35 V became 47 uF 63 V. For now that seems to be enough. In the UK we use a higher voltage than the implied 230 V ( 207 to 253 loosely speaking is 230 V, a tighter standard is now advised ). I get 31 V at the NAD rails.
At last I have a CD player I like . Still some CD's are very poor. The Beatles White Album in the copy I have. A friend agrees, his copy no better. George Michael Faith better on CD than LP I feel. ELP Tarkus just sounds different, I like both. The Beatles sounds like low grade FM radio. Norah Jones that I only have on CD is victory for a great recording engineer, I doubt she would have sold as many without that. The point about the NAD3020 is it does not reduce the music to a low grade FM standard. The reverse in fact. I seldom get this problem with MP3 used by many sources. Less detailed certainly, still suggesting a live event. Even crap 1970's TV has golden moments when colouration can not hide the sound of real music. My Beatles White Album on LP is one of the best recording I know of, this makes it harder to understand.
At last I have a CD player I like . Still some CD's are very poor. The Beatles White Album in the copy I have. A friend agrees, his copy no better. George Michael Faith better on CD than LP I feel. ELP Tarkus just sounds different, I like both. The Beatles sounds like low grade FM radio. Norah Jones that I only have on CD is victory for a great recording engineer, I doubt she would have sold as many without that. The point about the NAD3020 is it does not reduce the music to a low grade FM standard. The reverse in fact. I seldom get this problem with MP3 used by many sources. Less detailed certainly, still suggesting a live event. Even crap 1970's TV has golden moments when colouration can not hide the sound of real music. My Beatles White Album on LP is one of the best recording I know of, this makes it harder to understand.
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