MY WORLD! Thanks Nigel for that link.
When it comes to turntables, I think we are all mostly in agreement.
The AR came first, and introduced many new ideas.
However, it was so cheaply constructed that it never was real hi fi.
The Thorens TD150 came next, based on the same ideas, BUT with a heavier platter and a better made tone arm. I still have a TD150 here, today.
Then the Linn LP12. I bought my first Linn in 1974. Never looked back, even though I worked on even more expensive turntables like the GALE. The Linn is yet more refined, better bearing, heavier platter, designed for static reduction, etc, etc.
Superficial understanding of any of these turntables is unproductive.
When it comes to turntables, I think we are all mostly in agreement.
The AR came first, and introduced many new ideas.
However, it was so cheaply constructed that it never was real hi fi.
The Thorens TD150 came next, based on the same ideas, BUT with a heavier platter and a better made tone arm. I still have a TD150 here, today.
Then the Linn LP12. I bought my first Linn in 1974. Never looked back, even though I worked on even more expensive turntables like the GALE. The Linn is yet more refined, better bearing, heavier platter, designed for static reduction, etc, etc.
Superficial understanding of any of these turntables is unproductive.
Surely the best mass produced TT....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I dunno, I'd nominate the AR. Or, maybe this one:
Technics SL-10 Owners Manual, Service Manual, Schematics, Free Download | Vinyl Engine
Technics SL-10 Owners Manual, Service Manual, Schematics, Free Download | Vinyl Engine
It's a really good cartridge- Technics had some amazing stuff in that era. Mine came with an EPC205C Mk3, which I later updated to an EPC100C-Mk4. These are some of the best cartridges ever made. And their cheapie was a strain gauge cartridge, which later became the heart of the Robertson and Transcendent phono systems.
The Technics linear tracking TTs were surprisingly good- I had to do some isolation mounting on the two I owned, but they were quiet, competent, and kind to records. And, of course, no inner-grove tracking angle distortion.
The Technics linear tracking TTs were surprisingly good- I had to do some isolation mounting on the two I owned, but they were quiet, competent, and kind to records. And, of course, no inner-grove tracking angle distortion.
Brilliant, Nigel! Thank you. This is the first time I have ever seen Edgar Villchur, let alone hear it from him.
Empire turntables
I wanted to say about the Empire Troubadour . Almost forgotten now .
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=e...NcGg0QWcnpy3CQ&ved=0CIUBELAE&biw=1251&bih=849
Also EMT .
LP to CD - Shaw Sounds audio transfer services UK - Of interest
I wanted to say about the Empire Troubadour . Almost forgotten now .
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=e...NcGg0QWcnpy3CQ&ved=0CIUBELAE&biw=1251&bih=849
Also EMT .
LP to CD - Shaw Sounds audio transfer services UK - Of interest
I had a 598 for a few months. It looked gorgeous but was bettered in every way by the AR, Linn, Technics, and VPIs I owned later. The arm had too much mass and friction and the isolation was mediocre at best.
If I can distract any of you from very cool turntables for a bit, I have a SQ vs Measurement challenge. It involves a tube amp.
I have a Chinese integrated tube amp that sounds "OK" but not great. Mostly there is just something annoying about it. Something that grates, fatigues. Kinda like fiberglass; at first it's soft, but then it gets under your skin and starts to really annoy you. Doesn't matter what source or what speakers, it's always got that little irritation to it.
It's a straight forward P-P EL34 tube amp with 12AX7 input and 6SN7 drivers. Solid state rectification. I've done a little measuring, and it measures pretty good, nice FR, low (mostly H2) harmonic distortion, low enough moise. Why does it irritate?
At my measurement disposal I have an M-Audio USB sound card that can do 48Khz duplex or 96KHz simplex. Also an old 20Mhz analog scope, a function generator and various DVMs. Given that gear, what do you think I should look for in the measurements that might relate to the irritating sound of the amp? Do you think there is a measurement that can show me what I hear?
I have a Chinese integrated tube amp that sounds "OK" but not great. Mostly there is just something annoying about it. Something that grates, fatigues. Kinda like fiberglass; at first it's soft, but then it gets under your skin and starts to really annoy you. Doesn't matter what source or what speakers, it's always got that little irritation to it.
It's a straight forward P-P EL34 tube amp with 12AX7 input and 6SN7 drivers. Solid state rectification. I've done a little measuring, and it measures pretty good, nice FR, low (mostly H2) harmonic distortion, low enough moise. Why does it irritate?
At my measurement disposal I have an M-Audio USB sound card that can do 48Khz duplex or 96KHz simplex. Also an old 20Mhz analog scope, a function generator and various DVMs. Given that gear, what do you think I should look for in the measurements that might relate to the irritating sound of the amp? Do you think there is a measurement that can show me what I hear?
No way, Simon7000!
Technics SL1200 is THE turntable of the last 30 years. 3 million++ sold.
It created a whole subculture, it influenced music industry, it could be even considered a musical instrument! A real workhorse. Do you gentlemen know what I'm talking about?
It is a bit dull sounding, but for the job... brilliant machine! I still own two.
Ok, ok, for casual listenig I fire up my string driven Micro RX1500
That's Grandmaster Flash, by the way.
Attachments
Pano, SY might be right, dunno, but it might also be a possibly highish output impedance of your Chinese delight. This can really screw up the alignment of a Xover. For illustration purposes with easy numbers: suppose you have a 1st order @ 2Khz two way loudspeaker, with 10 Ohm drivers, and your Chinese glow-in-the-dark has an output impedance of 10 Ohm @ 2Khz. The Xover can't see which impedance is where, so what will happen is that the midbass driver will see it's xover point double from 2Khz to 4 Khz, and the high unit will go from 2Khz to 1 Khz. That would sound pretty rough.
With a signal generator, a heavy 10 Ohm (somewhat larger is safer) resistor, another amplifier and a true RMS voltmeter, it is not that hard to measure output impedance, but it is tricky because you can easily smoke things.
vac
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