Hi Thorsten,
Here is an example of what you want:
Metcal Soldering Station and Tip | eBay
It's at $255 with ten minutes to go. I'm guessing that the final price will be a bit under $350. You want one with all the stuff -- power supply, handpiece/cord, tip, rest "station" with sponge, and silicone tip-changing pad.
The only thing that is OK to miss out on is the sponge. It's nice if it comes with an assortment of tips also. You can just type "metcal" into the search and then click on the "Completed Auctions" radio button on the left side to get an idea of the current market price.
The newer model is the MX-500. The big difference with that is that it has two ports and a switch. In theory this could be slick, but in practice we have never used that feature once. So the older ones can be good, as long as you get the entire package. Buying things piecemeal is more expensive.
PS -- Once you buy it, you won't regret it. $350 is cheap for all the time it will save and all the pleasure it will give you over many years.
Here is an example of what you want:
Metcal Soldering Station and Tip | eBay
It's at $255 with ten minutes to go. I'm guessing that the final price will be a bit under $350. You want one with all the stuff -- power supply, handpiece/cord, tip, rest "station" with sponge, and silicone tip-changing pad.
The only thing that is OK to miss out on is the sponge. It's nice if it comes with an assortment of tips also. You can just type "metcal" into the search and then click on the "Completed Auctions" radio button on the left side to get an idea of the current market price.
The newer model is the MX-500. The big difference with that is that it has two ports and a switch. In theory this could be slick, but in practice we have never used that feature once. So the older ones can be good, as long as you get the entire package. Buying things piecemeal is more expensive.
PS -- Once you buy it, you won't regret it. $350 is cheap for all the time it will save and all the pleasure it will give you over many years.
Here is a nice example of the older model:
METCAL PS2E-01 SOLDERING IRON SOLDER STATION | eBay
It will likely go for under $150. This uses the same tips as the first one I showed you. That is very important. Metcal has made some less expensive models in the past, but they use different tips which are harder to get and fewer in variety. Avoid those models.
EDIT: The auction for the first one ended at $255. That is an excellent price for that iron. Best iron in the world...
METCAL PS2E-01 SOLDERING IRON SOLDER STATION | eBay
It will likely go for under $150. This uses the same tips as the first one I showed you. That is very important. Metcal has made some less expensive models in the past, but they use different tips which are harder to get and fewer in variety. Avoid those models.
EDIT: The auction for the first one ended at $255. That is an excellent price for that iron. Best iron in the world...
Curie Effect - google it. Magnetic tip holds in contact when cold. At the required temperature the magnetism flips to ~ zero and the contact opens.
That is why there is a tip for each temperature. Different alloy ??
ANTEX anyone? Standard soldering irons --- Antex
I use the same 18W for more than 25 years. 3 heating elements and 8 tips are what it has cost me.
The tips are all iron coated. They last long, they are cheap. The different size/forms work from SMD to speaker binding posts (plus the wire).
When it’s not in my hand, I hang it in vertical position. I haven’t put up a fire yet ( I keep on forgetting it plugged in for days (and weeks).
I use the same 18W for more than 25 years. 3 heating elements and 8 tips are what it has cost me.
The tips are all iron coated. They last long, they are cheap. The different size/forms work from SMD to speaker binding posts (plus the wire).
When it’s not in my hand, I hang it in vertical position. I haven’t put up a fire yet ( I keep on forgetting it plugged in for days (and weeks).
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Hi,
No thanks. Had one, went and bought a Weller Magnetostat... Actually two (by accident).
Ciao T
No thanks. Had one, went and bought a Weller Magnetostat... Actually two (by accident).
Ciao T
It may not meet the eye, but for me, the “beauty” of the Antex is that it achieves good thermal balance without temperature sensing or switching elements. It keeps a proper tip temperature from 5 minutes after powering on, up to days. It doesn’t cool down when I solder and it doesn’t burn the solder when it is powered for long.
The solder flows - over nicely and has a shiny surface
But you may don’t fancy the yellow colour
Regards
George
This is also my experience, often flaws come out after a longer listening period.
Indeed, the best soldering iron I ever lay my hands on and I used extensively Wellers and others, thermo-tip and adjustable temperature.
I am using OKI-Metcal PS-900 soldering iron , which is lower cost version of mentioned Metcal model, with the same unique technology.Working trequency is 470K instead of 13 MGHZ, and power is slightly lower. It is the best soldering iron I have ever used. Ceramic heater, thermocouple sensored irons have bad temperature recovery and unstable heat output.
OKI-Metcal irons (stations) use so called Smart Heat technology, with constant temperature, but variable power, dependable on thermal mass of components to be soldered.Put the soldering tip on the lead of small ceramic cap. and the power is about 12W. Use the same tip on PCB heatsink pin( high mass )and resulting power is much higher, to about 40W. They even sell power meters for each model. Heating time is about 9sec. It is almost impossible to make cold soldered joint with Smart Heat irons.
OKI-Metcal irons (stations) use so called Smart Heat technology, with constant temperature, but variable power, dependable on thermal mass of components to be soldered.Put the soldering tip on the lead of small ceramic cap. and the power is about 12W. Use the same tip on PCB heatsink pin( high mass )and resulting power is much higher, to about 40W. They even sell power meters for each model. Heating time is about 9sec. It is almost impossible to make cold soldered joint with Smart Heat irons.
Hi John,
It's a funny truth that it takes an engineer to use the cheaper tools, and almost anyone can use the best tools. One difference is that experience allows one to appreciate what they have for tools. Something to keep in mind.
Hi kamis,
This unit has a switchable display for both the set temperature and the actual tip temperature. It was possible to calibrate the system in fact. The recovery time for attempting to solder a chassis is pretty quick and in line with what you would expect from a 50 watt heater element. I wonder what the reason for that could be? Hmmm. However, if you allow the barrel nut to loosen, the tip to heater interface to become fouled, or the iron to base connection to become a poor connection, I would expect you to suffer exactly the fault you mentioned. What??! Soldering irons need to be maintained? Say it ain't so!
If too small a tip type is used, you will experience a lack of heat to the tip as well. I have found that the 3mm screwdriver tip is perfect for surface mount work (use the side of the tip for single type connections). For ICs, some solder flux and the 3mm flat makes short work of the job - and it is perfect once you get the hang of it. This is easier to use than my hot air rework station, which is best for removing parts really. Pretty expensive stuff as well. The proper tip and some skill means that perfect connections are even easier to create than ever. I can still do a great job with the Weller as well. They just fail too often for my liking.
Is the RF method better? Probably. Can the other irons do a great job? Absolutely. Don't forget that in the 60s, the recommended method to solder a PCB was to use the wood burning iron with heavy copper wire wound tightly around the tip. You solder with the copper wire tip. It worked well enough for most hobbyists. Better stations existed, but they weren't normally seen unless you were in a factory or rework area. Of all people, John should be able to remember that. A 25 watt soldering pencil was heaven by comparison.
I am extremely unlikely to buy any other iron unless my current one and it's backup dies. It may not be the best, but it is more than serviceable and certainly it is dependable. Sadly, for how much I have spent on maintaining one Weller station over the years, I could have bought a Metcal had I been able to see into the future. Probably still would have bought the Solomon.
-Chris
Heck! You would think at least one of them would gift one to you.
You know, I agree that the curie temp type Wellers are just Okay, having had many over the years. But it has been my experience that the tool can give perfect soldered connections if used properly. Nicer tools only make this easier.
It's a funny truth that it takes an engineer to use the cheaper tools, and almost anyone can use the best tools. One difference is that experience allows one to appreciate what they have for tools. Something to keep in mind.
Hi kamis,
I'm sorry, but I don't agree with this statement at all. Why would you make this claim? For example, the station I am now using (for over 15 years) is exactly the type that you describe. So are some temperature standards used in cal labs (although an RTD sensor is common on the better ones). See the attached picture of one cheap but excellent iron.
This unit has a switchable display for both the set temperature and the actual tip temperature. It was possible to calibrate the system in fact. The recovery time for attempting to solder a chassis is pretty quick and in line with what you would expect from a 50 watt heater element. I wonder what the reason for that could be? Hmmm. However, if you allow the barrel nut to loosen, the tip to heater interface to become fouled, or the iron to base connection to become a poor connection, I would expect you to suffer exactly the fault you mentioned. What??! Soldering irons need to be maintained? Say it ain't so!
If too small a tip type is used, you will experience a lack of heat to the tip as well. I have found that the 3mm screwdriver tip is perfect for surface mount work (use the side of the tip for single type connections). For ICs, some solder flux and the 3mm flat makes short work of the job - and it is perfect once you get the hang of it. This is easier to use than my hot air rework station, which is best for removing parts really. Pretty expensive stuff as well. The proper tip and some skill means that perfect connections are even easier to create than ever. I can still do a great job with the Weller as well. They just fail too often for my liking.
Is the RF method better? Probably. Can the other irons do a great job? Absolutely. Don't forget that in the 60s, the recommended method to solder a PCB was to use the wood burning iron with heavy copper wire wound tightly around the tip. You solder with the copper wire tip. It worked well enough for most hobbyists. Better stations existed, but they weren't normally seen unless you were in a factory or rework area. Of all people, John should be able to remember that. A 25 watt soldering pencil was heaven by comparison.
I am extremely unlikely to buy any other iron unless my current one and it's backup dies. It may not be the best, but it is more than serviceable and certainly it is dependable. Sadly, for how much I have spent on maintaining one Weller station over the years, I could have bought a Metcal had I been able to see into the future. Probably still would have bought the Solomon.
-Chris
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Apparantly, after starting to catch up with SMT a couple of years ago, i got me a complete Ersa Dig2K station, anti-static, less costly than Pace and way cheaper tips than OKi (don't even wish to imagine what an entire set of Metcal tips cost).
For the heavy stuff i still use oldy 100W Philips solder transformers, 2 of them, with an equally oldfashioned woody iron.
Which is funny, as the Ersa can top nearly 300W.
Still, nothing as accustomed as the Welly (first time me handled the 2002 i was doing time at an F16 fighter plane assembly line).
Like a pair of trusty old knickers.
The temperature control is inside the tip (it's called Magnastat actually)
Advantages are that it's way less fragile and a lot cheaper (to replace).
The electronically controlled versions (as the one i posted a piccy of) had the downside that if you damaged the sensor behind the tip, the more sensible might be to replace the entire solder station.
For the heavy stuff i still use oldy 100W Philips solder transformers, 2 of them, with an equally oldfashioned woody iron.
Which is funny, as the Ersa can top nearly 300W.
Still, nothing as accustomed as the Welly (first time me handled the 2002 i was doing time at an F16 fighter plane assembly line).
Like a pair of trusty old knickers.
The temperature control is inside the tip (it's called Magnastat actually)
Advantages are that it's way less fragile and a lot cheaper (to replace).
The electronically controlled versions (as the one i posted a piccy of) had the downside that if you damaged the sensor behind the tip, the more sensible might be to replace the entire solder station.
Nowadays I barely do a little DIY every now and than. I never owned a Metcal, it was owned by the company I worked for (though it was me who urged them to purchase it). With present eBay prices, I may well get a used one.
Hi,
It makes adequate solder joins (a lot of Irons do).
But it really struggles even with ground connections that are not massively thermally reliefed (something the Magnetostat Wellers have no problem with) so you end up owning a lot of them. The elements go quickly, as do the tips, compared to my Weller's I have yet to replace an element).
The colour is okay, in my view all soldering irons should be red, to warn foolish people "Hot stuff"...
As I had a fairly long exposure to Weller's professionally in the 80's and early 90's I have found it hard to settle for anything less, I can see myself switching to Metcal at the drop of hat though.
Ciao T
It makes adequate solder joins (a lot of Irons do).
But it really struggles even with ground connections that are not massively thermally reliefed (something the Magnetostat Wellers have no problem with) so you end up owning a lot of them. The elements go quickly, as do the tips, compared to my Weller's I have yet to replace an element).
The colour is okay, in my view all soldering irons should be red, to warn foolish people "Hot stuff"...
As I had a fairly long exposure to Weller's professionally in the 80's and early 90's I have found it hard to settle for anything less, I can see myself switching to Metcal at the drop of hat though.
Ciao T
Hi,
It's true. I CAN make decent solder joins using almost any iron, Thermal profiles, temperature variations etc. all can be compensated with experience after a few quick trial joins.
But in my old age I don't see why I should use Chinese Sailboat type irons when I can afford something decent. Even the 2nd Hand Metcal stuff looks affordable.
Ciao T
It's true. I CAN make decent solder joins using almost any iron, Thermal profiles, temperature variations etc. all can be compensated with experience after a few quick trial joins.
But in my old age I don't see why I should use Chinese Sailboat type irons when I can afford something decent. Even the 2nd Hand Metcal stuff looks affordable.
Ciao T
+1. My very first iron was an Antex (15W I believe), I coveted Antex for quite a while before I could even afford it as a kid. Just the ultra-low leakage ones were next to useless owing to the poor thermal path from element to tip.
Hi Jacco,
The switched turn off can induce one heck of an impulse. When my Weller stations turned off, everything registered the event. A healthy "SNAP" from audio equipment, meters nudged up and the 'scope trace deflected.
I often used my American Beauty on the other side of a chassis to help the Weller (or any other iron). The iron provided the fine control and the American Beauty did the pre-heat.
Always check to make sure replacement parts are available. They are for the station I use. I was even able to get a schematic for it! Also the iron itself and heaters can be had. I have a new iron assy still in it's packaging - so I should be good.
This model was just discontinued. The new one probably uses a newer chip set (CA3161E and CA3162E in this one).
Hi ThorstenL,
Besides, I like the blue Weller colour and the eggshell (?) of my current station.
You can get better at less cost than the Weller products. Beyond that appears to be the RF technology and hot air stations. I even have an Ungar desoldering station that I haven't used in many years. It's a pain to clean out. It is marginally better than the Edsyn ??-30 air pump. That's the big one with recoil. The smaller ones are useless by comparison.
-Chris
The switched turn off can induce one heck of an impulse. When my Weller stations turned off, everything registered the event. A healthy "SNAP" from audio equipment, meters nudged up and the 'scope trace deflected.
I often used my American Beauty on the other side of a chassis to help the Weller (or any other iron). The iron provided the fine control and the American Beauty did the pre-heat.
Excellent point!
Always check to make sure replacement parts are available. They are for the station I use. I was even able to get a schematic for it! Also the iron itself and heaters can be had. I have a new iron assy still in it's packaging - so I should be good.
This model was just discontinued. The new one probably uses a newer chip set (CA3161E and CA3162E in this one).
Hi ThorstenL,
Absolutely!
If you have to colour the station red, I think the battle has been lost already.
Besides, I like the blue Weller colour and the eggshell (?) of my current station.Same here. Then I had no choice but to find better. Of course, no changes until you have to. Do you keep a back up iron?
You can get better at less cost than the Weller products. Beyond that appears to be the RF technology and hot air stations. I even have an Ungar desoldering station that I haven't used in many years. It's a pain to clean out. It is marginally better than the Edsyn ??-30 air pump. That's the big one with recoil. The smaller ones are useless by comparison.
-Chris
Hi,
Well, Children may be better with the red stuff... But yes, normally people should know which end of the iron is the one NOT to touch. But look who'se talking. I once put 800V DC from the anode supply of a big tube amp trough one of my arms...
Yes, I always have something like the Antex Irons at my small Lab at home, at work we have spare Wellers, Goots and Hakko's (plus theie cheap china copies) galore...
With me and Weller, I have not come across anything I really like better in use (never came across Metcal, not common in Europe), there is a certain almost russian ruggedness and solidity about these magnetic control Weller irons that appeals to me who grew up behind the iron curtain.
I'm sure one can. Probably also worse for more.
In professional production use the Weller stuff is entry level, for the casual hobbyist they are possibly overkill, for service techs, development and other regular smaller jobs they are heavensent, heat up quickly, solder almost anything and affordable.
But now Charles put the Metcal bug under my bonnet...
It seems to be the B-2 Stealth Bomber to the Wellers russian Tupolev TU-95 Bear style.
Ciao T
If you have to colour the station red, I think the battle has been lost already.
Well, Children may be better with the red stuff... But yes, normally people should know which end of the iron is the one NOT to touch. But look who'se talking. I once put 800V DC from the anode supply of a big tube amp trough one of my arms...
Yes, I always have something like the Antex Irons at my small Lab at home, at work we have spare Wellers, Goots and Hakko's (plus theie cheap china copies) galore...
With me and Weller, I have not come across anything I really like better in use (never came across Metcal, not common in Europe), there is a certain almost russian ruggedness and solidity about these magnetic control Weller irons that appeals to me who grew up behind the iron curtain.
I'm sure one can. Probably also worse for more.
In professional production use the Weller stuff is entry level, for the casual hobbyist they are possibly overkill, for service techs, development and other regular smaller jobs they are heavensent, heat up quickly, solder almost anything and affordable.
But now Charles put the Metcal bug under my bonnet...
It seems to be the B-2 Stealth Bomber to the Wellers russian Tupolev TU-95 Bear style.
Ciao T
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