John Curl's Blowtorch preamplifier part II

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There was a time when General Motors used whale oil in every posi-traction rear differential to stop the clicking and popping of the clutch plates, it did work really well. I'm not sure what the current additive is but it does seem they found a petroleum based material to replace the whale oil. It was about 50ML or so if I remember the bottle size correctly but multiply that by how many cars and that was a bunch of whales that had to die to solve a simple friction problem.
 
With regard to hi end preamps. We are still designing them. The Dec. 'Stereophile' magazine has a long review of Ayre's latest preamp, measurements and all. We are still in the game of making better and better products. It is the same with Nelson Pass's designs, as they are also getting awards for their subjective sound and build quality. This is what we do in the audio marketplace: We build the very best that we can, and hope that the reviewers and the public find our design to be exceptional. Partly for the 'glory' of it, and partly for the sales, as this is what will keep us in business over time. Many, many audio companies who might have had a good idea or two have failed in the audio marketplace, mostly because their designs were not 'exceptional' enough in execution to compete successfully over time. Now, everybody cannot afford the 'very best' designs, but IF they exist, then they can be compared to more cost-effective designs, hopefully favorably, like Dyna tube equipment was successful in the past, and purchased by the 'rest of us'.
Of course there are the 'Randites' out there who think it is all a grand illusion, but it isn't. If I can talk further about hi end preamplifier design, I will, and perhaps learn a thing or two from PMA and others.
 
I compliment John with the introduction of the term 'Randites', very well found. Since this was done to describe those in opposition to his own position, may I suggest the word Curlites for those who share his philosophy?

Since even black is always just a shade of grey, and so is white, with at least 48 grades in between, we may mix the both terms. I, for example, could be described as a Randite with strong and often dark Curlite tendencies.
 
James Randi was also Alice Cooper's special effects guy in the 70's . So while disliking hucksters he does put on a great show . Howard Metzenbaum Senator from Ohio once said to me . The truth is a valuable commodity don't go throwing it around Willie Nilie . Besides in not appreciated in side the beltway. Think that applies here also.
 
On the topic of lubricants, can someone tell me why my 825W vintage chrome Osterizer emits an acrid burning enamel smell when I use it to make pumpkin puree? If I take out the carbon brushes in the motor, the bearings are silky smooth. I used either chain lube or Slick 50 on them (My experiments with chain lube tend to cause box fans to seize after months of operation whereas Slick 50 keeps them silky for the duration, so I'm not finding the chain lube to be useful for much of anything using sleeve bearings).

Please forgive my utter tribological ignorance. The box fans are a relatively risk-less test platform at least.
 
On the topic of lubricants, can someone tell me why my 825W vintage chrome Osterizer emits an acrid burning enamel smell when I use it to make pumpkin puree? If I take out the carbon brushes in the motor, the bearings are silky smooth. I used either chain lube or Slick 50 on them (My experiments with chain lube tend to cause box fans to seize after months of operation whereas Slick 50 keeps them silky for the duration, so I'm not finding the chain lube to be useful for much of anything using sleeve bearings).

Please forgive my utter tribological ignorance. The box fans are a relatively risk-less test platform at least.
As a first guess, perhaps the enamel coated wires of the motor?

edit..whale oil...hmm, used in the old clock movements.

jn
 
That's what I was thinking, but honestly I don't know how much resistance the motor should be able to take before the windings get too hot. I sort of doubt that I'm pushing it too hard.

PS. I have one of these pocketwatches. I bought it for $28 at Walmart, no kidding, and I don't know why. The cover spring on mine broke early, maybe that's why. Can't find the warrantee slip to get it fixed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141474203678?item=141474203678&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466
 
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That's what I was thinking, but honestly I don't know how much resistance the motor should be able to take before the windings get too hot.

I don't think I'd recognize burning enamel.

I sort of doubt that I'm pushing it too hard.
Pumpkin puree? You're pushin it..:D

On second thought, did you check the commutator surfaces?

jn
 
The commutator surfaces aren't flat, they have circular bands forming from wear, I wondered if that could have something to do with it. I was hesitant about taking an abrasive to it to smooth it down though, and the bands are also worn into the brushes.
Perhaps the springs need to be stretched. I'd assume that the force holding the brushes to the commutator has reduced as a result of wear.

jn
 
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