John Curl's Blowtorch preamplifier part II

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I remember when cars had a 6 month warranty, after 3 months they rattled like a freight train and you needed a 5 liter engine just to get to 120 mph (if you were lucky). The road holding was shite also. Saturday afternoons once every two months was when dad changed the oil and cleaned the air filter and after 50 000 miles you needed an engine rebuild and new shocks.

Thankfully we have progressed. The modern auto is a marvel of engineering - snafus like UA aside. But then again, at least the wheels don't fall off at speed the way they used to.

Count your blessings and spend the free time building audio stuff

:D
 
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Thankfully we have progressed. The modern auto is a marvel of engineering - snafus like UA aside
I would agree - modern cars are remarkable examples of how sophisticated engineering can deliver relatively superb qualities for comparatively tiny money - it's nothing to get over 300,000kms if not ill-treated, with all the fundamentals largely untouched ...
 
These days the thing to do is build an old classic car body with all new modern suspension and a nice new fuel injected engine. I'm thinking to put a nice LS engine in my 1967 Firebird since nobody will seem to certify any of the retro-fit fuel injection kits here in California. Only way to legally have modern fuel injection is with a newer engine. I have no problem working on them so it seems the smart thing to do.
 
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As far as I am aware NASA still wont take the risk and recommend any conformal coating as being 100% certain of stopping the whiskers growing, and using proper solder is still the only 100% reliable way.

The article referred to said the opposite of what was claimed it said.... there are conformal coatings which prevent whiskers is what they said.

For audio products, I would certainly use the type they say prevents whiskers. I have no issue with a DIYer using leaded solder. In fact if one is super worried about it... use both leaded solder and best conformal coatings and gold plate the trace paths.
Dust/krud, atmospheric and condensation/humidity and other junk that can bridge traces and affect conductors (corrosion - oxidation) are other good reasons to use conformal coatings.

THx-RNMarsh
 
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......Get a Maxheadroom Dundee special .. :)
Like this ?.....

Mad_Max_Car_at_Silverton_Hotel,_Silverton,_NSW,_07.07.2007.jpg


Mad Dan.
 
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I believe the new Toyota Prius (UK ?) has an "issue" with several owners complaining that the small 12 volt battery goes flat if left for as little as 36/48 hours. A bizarre workaround seems to be to put the hazard flashers on for a second or two before leaving and locking the car. Something amiss with the logic and programming somewhere and the last time I looked there was still no fix available.
 
Bogan Chick Puller....

Ford Capri.

Every 70's 20 something lout lusted after one. Yeah. Me too. :D
Girl's car :p.

The pics is of what used to be a Ford Falcon 2 door hardtop 5.8L V8.
These were the bogan lust object in the late 70's.
A mate had one with a low profile supercharger with low profile air intake sticking up through the bonnet.
An earlier model had the same air intake, so it looked pretty much factory......except for 15" rear rubber.
Ate anything at the lights ;).

Dan.
 
Thinking some more about cars, with older cars if something vary strange happened, you could use the mechanical ignition key switch to turn the engine off. True there were problems doing this, you needed to reposition the switch so the the steering column didn't lock and you lost power assist to the steering and brakes.

We just drove a new keyless rental car with no user's manual (US rentals don't come with instructions) and getting the engine turned off was a trick.

Cars seem to have gone in the opposite direction of the KISS principle.

To be fair, I very much doubt one could wreak that economy from them without all the electronic gadgets.

And it wouldn't be half as bad if the manufacturers retained their customs of old, which let you mix and matc the same bodywork to a range of engines and add-ons, as they used to. I still remember Ford's Escort from the late 60ies:

Engines: 1.1 litre 50 HP, 1.3 litre 60 HP, 1.6 litre 75 or 85 HP, 1.6 litre Cosworth 115 HP (for the road, plus 165 or 185 HP for racing)

Equipment: zero designation, L, XL, GXL, GT. Plus an additional list of options.

Go play. That was fun.

No computers, no drive-by-wire, no gizmos, but it could go like stink. I learnt how ro drive on an Esort Cosworth 115 hp.
 
The article referred to said the opposite of what was claimed it said.... there are conformal coatings which prevent whiskers is what they said.

For audio products, I would certainly use the type they say prevents whiskers. I have no issue with a DIYer using leaded solder. In fact if one is super worried about it... use both leaded solder and best conformal coatings and gold plate the trace paths.
Dust/krud, atmospheric and condensation/humidity and other junk that can bridge traces and affect conductors (corrosion - oxidation) are other good reasons to use conformal coatings.

THx-RNMarsh

http://www.calce.umd.edu/tin-whiskers/presentations/CALCE-conformal-coating-study.pdf
This does support the view that in tests some coating have stopped whisker growth, but there are caveats, as this document shows. The coating especially on some component legs is not always as thick as a flat coating and the possibility of mechanical damage. With BGA devices going down to 0.4mm pitch and other SMD components getting smaller by the say, the risks are still to great and the research still going on to guarantee a whisker free assembly in 15 years with a Rosh solder and a conformal coating. Hence we still use tin/lead solder for most IPC 610 class 3 assemblies.
I do agree that cleaning you boards properly (removing all flux residue) and conformal coating should be done, especially for DIY. Most consumer electrics don't get coated, it costs to much these days, hence very few if any lifetime guarantees these days.
 
Is this that rubber-like transparent goop that covered the entire circuit board that I pulled out of my grandpa's car? It was an old security system with a resistor embedded in the key and I had to build an NE555 timer just to get the thing to run for him.

I can imagine why understanding the electronics would be helpful in troubleshooting cars, but I've tried and I'm pretty useless at it. Not exactly the same as audio amplifiers! I'd like to have the skill though.
 
http://www.calce.umd.edu/tin-whiskers/presentations/CALCE-conformal-coating-study.pdf
This does support the view that in tests some coating have stopped whisker growth, but there are caveats, as this document shows. The coating especially on some component legs is not always as thick as a flat coating and the possibility of mechanical damage. With BGA devices going down to 0.4mm pitch and other SMD components getting smaller by the say, the risks are still to great and the research still going on to guarantee a whisker free assembly in 15 years with a Rosh solder and a conformal coating. Hence we still use tin/lead solder for most IPC 610 class 3 assemblies.
I do agree that cleaning you boards properly (removing all flux residue) and conformal coating should be done, especially for DIY. Most consumer electrics don't get coated, it costs to much these days, hence very few if any lifetime guarantees these days.

Marce, I offer a 5 year warranty with my products. Yet, Wima, whose caps I use, gives me a warranty of only 3 months.

You tell me, exactly how could I stick my neck out for the lifetime of the products? How do I foretell which part might give up the ghost tomorrow?

In 1964, my late mom purchased a sewing machine, Necchi of Italy, and received a lifetime warranty on it. She passed on in 2005, so that warranty was actually good for 41 years, a commendable result.

But that was then, now they make sure it doesn't last too long, because if it does, what will their factories do?
 
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Girl's car :p.

The pics is of what used to be a Ford Falcon 2 door hardtop 5.8L V8.
These were the bogan lust object in the late 70's.
A mate had one with a low profile supercharger with low profile air intake sticking up through the bonnet.
An earlier model had the same air intake, so it looked pretty much factory......except for 15" rear rubber.
Ate anything at the lights ;).

Dan.

Out the box, yes, a girls car.

But,they were great for hotrodding.
 
Originally Posted by dvv

Why the hell should he?

Sounds like you're on the suppliers side, rather than yours ! ?

Maybe you should order you parts from a UK supplier instead !

15. Warranty/Guarantee

In addition, the Company will, free of charge, repair or, at the Company’s option, replace Goods or, in the case of Services, re-perform Services which are proved to the reasonable satisfaction of the Company to be damaged or defective due to faulty materials, workmanship or design.

This obligation will not apply:

if the Customer fails to notify the Company of the defect within 12 months

Farnell UK | Terms and Conditions

12 months is standard in the UK. I've had no problem returning faulty parts to them & other suppliers in the past, within 12 months.
 
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