Long time
Not much happening lately as i'm still very much into cars
and racing but doing the schoolrun this morning I found a
pair of canton glx 200's at the curb
Not much happening lately as i'm still very much into cars
and racing but doing the schoolrun this morning I found a
pair of canton glx 200's at the curb
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Neighbor handed me a Luxman R-117 when he moved; looks similar to this. Does this Sherwood have jumper jacks?
Not today, but in the recent past...
Boston 10.4 car sub for $10, cast frame, one damaged terminal, and the surround was unstuck near each mounting hole. I've RTVed the surround to the frame, and found some brass hardware to replace the terminal.
OEM car 6x9 full-range (whizzer cone) speakers, 4 ohms, 20W rating, $8 pair. Normally I'd avoid that kind of thing, but these have tiny neodymium magnets and a reinforced plastic frame, so they weigh almost nothing. Ideal for a portable boom box?
Boston 10.4 car sub for $10, cast frame, one damaged terminal, and the surround was unstuck near each mounting hole. I've RTVed the surround to the frame, and found some brass hardware to replace the terminal.
OEM car 6x9 full-range (whizzer cone) speakers, 4 ohms, 20W rating, $8 pair. Normally I'd avoid that kind of thing, but these have tiny neodymium magnets and a reinforced plastic frame, so they weigh almost nothing. Ideal for a portable boom box?
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Maybe this belongs in the dumpster thread, but I found most of the parts of an AM/FM/MP3-input hearing protector alongside the highway while riding home. If the tuner survived, it can go into the ever evolving portable boombox project. Transducers may be adaptable to Peltor hearing protectors (Peltor probably made the radio for 3M).
And I got two portable tool nicad packs through Freecycle, for a total of 32 1300 mA-H sub-C cells. I guess they'll be usable for bike lighting, though I'd hoped for higher capacity.
And I got two portable tool nicad packs through Freecycle, for a total of 32 1300 mA-H sub-C cells. I guess they'll be usable for bike lighting, though I'd hoped for higher capacity.
Today, I received in the mail, a vintage Teac EQA-10 EQ in excellent condition that I purchase on ebay for a very fair price. Everything works perfectly and it looks great.
I had been using a vintage Technics 8 band EQ. However, it did not really have the most usefull lower freq bands that I needed for my sys.
So, I fugured I would try the Teac.
I just have some preliminary settings but, so far I quite like it.
For one thing, the Teac seems more "musical"........less distortion?
I had been using a vintage Technics 8 band EQ. However, it did not really have the most usefull lower freq bands that I needed for my sys.
So, I fugured I would try the Teac.
I just have some preliminary settings but, so far I quite like it.
For one thing, the Teac seems more "musical"........less distortion?
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You will probably find that one or possibly more of the cells are defective. Testing each C Cell individually will almost certainly give you a boxfull of useable cells.
I bought three 14V NiMH packs and there were a total of four duff cells which rendered the packs useless.
I opened up one pack, and several of the cells looked like they were leaking. And there was no temperature sensor in the pack; the terminal is there but unused. I also weighed the pack, and found that the F-sized cells I've been using are much more efficient in terms of watts/pound.
As for new AWDWBT?, I found a pair of 4x6 2-way Kenwood car speakers (with dome tweeters) at the Salvation Army for $4; just what I need for a compact boom box system.
And Sears had this Craftsman 3-drawer intermediate tool cabinet on sale ($100 off), which will provide a place for handheld meters, tools, and no doubt random stuff that will accumulate there by osmosis or sedimentation. I've got a week to figure out how to bring it home on a bicycle... borrow a hand truck or rent a bike trailer are the most sensible options.
BEHRINGER: CX2310
Well, it was going cheap.
Now I can quickly dial in any crossover point I like.
There is one thing that's confused me, though: the subwoofer low pass sets off at 10Hz, the next step being 15Hz, then 40, 75, 145, and 215 Hz.
Seems odd to have XO points so low - I wouldn't expect anyone to bother crossing at 15Hz...
Chris
Well, it was going cheap.
Now I can quickly dial in any crossover point I like.
There is one thing that's confused me, though: the subwoofer low pass sets off at 10Hz, the next step being 15Hz, then 40, 75, 145, and 215 Hz.
Seems odd to have XO points so low - I wouldn't expect anyone to bother crossing at 15Hz...
Chris
The 10Hz to 215Hz control is on a single rotary knob.
Very odd.
The 25Hz low-cut filters on each channel are very useful - that's about where my subwoofers give up, so at least now they've got protection. The phase invert is a useful feature, too.
Chris
PS - there are, I suspect, modifications available for such a device. Sounds good to me as it is - no noise, and no departure from my home-made crossover (using TL072s and generally half-decent stuff), so I'm a happy person. This'll be handy for future projects, too. Got something in the pipeline that'll be shared as and when.
Very odd.
The 25Hz low-cut filters on each channel are very useful - that's about where my subwoofers give up, so at least now they've got protection. The phase invert is a useful feature, too.
Chris
PS - there are, I suspect, modifications available for such a device. Sounds good to me as it is - no noise, and no departure from my home-made crossover (using TL072s and generally half-decent stuff), so I'm a happy person. This'll be handy for future projects, too. Got something in the pipeline that'll be shared as and when.
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