Great tool - I still have one, use it on older cars. You can still buy them too!
Colortune Single Plug Kit | Part No. G4074 | Part of the Colortune range from Gunson
We're provisioned for 400mb/sec but the fastest local speed test servers are not quite fast enough to reach the maximum limit and I am running over 802.11 AC wifi. We don't yet have any 4K stuff but I am planning on a cheap 4K Sony set soon. Interestingly I have 3 devices that run on AC and my wife has none [her stuff is all G], so I get the maximum benefit.
Arris has the Motorola SURFboard heritage, but stopped using the brand a few years ago, and now ZOOM is selling under a "Motorola" badge. link
Yeah I would feel a lot better though knowing that I had at least half the range of the car while running on ethanol than thinking about converting it to an EV and getting only 1/5th of the range with additional massive upfront costs.
With an EV you have to buy batteries ($$$$) and keep them charged and pull the petrol motor out.
With a 3.0L V6 running on ethanol (or flex fuel box) however I can keep the petrol engine with the torque required to tow a trailer and half of the range of ordinary petrol + feel good knowing that I'm at least not contributing massively to polluting the planet.
A flex fuel box like the change2e85 6VAN will allow me to run on all kinds of fuels from E85, E10 or Regular. Flex Fuel E85 Ethanol Conversion Kit model 6VAN
The price of the conversion kit is a bit steep though, might be a job for a day when the AU/US dollar ratio is at parity again. I'm hoping that with a few tweaks I can simply run the car without a conversion box. This is if I ever do an ethanol conversion at all, its still a pipe dream.
It would be a lot easier too to add an additional fuel tank in the rear to add back some of that range that I've lost.
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BTW, if anything, an unscrupulous seller would re-mark these parts and try to sell them as 2SJ74, since that's where the money is. Not much of a profit in counterfeiting J176s, as you have to start with a p-channel device anyway. Of course, if you'e a total crook and don't care, you could just buy (or steal) a bunch of reject TO-92s of any sort and re-mark them.
That's the main reason for getting this particular light. The low beam is bright but won't shine in anyone's eyes. The high beam can be turned on and off just like in a car, and will be dipped whenever there is anyone in sight
Tony.
Continuing on the cycling theme, a speed and cadence sensor.
DUOBAND SPEED & CADENCE SENSOR | Topeak
Tony.
DUOBAND SPEED & CADENCE SENSOR | Topeak
Tony.
I think the light I was using up till my bike got stolen (the one that I got for my 1970's dragstar) had a 3 Watt Krypton globe!
It had a chinese alternator (the type that runs off the tyre) I had to rectify it and voltage regulate it when I put it on the racing bike because I kept blowing bulbs due to over voltage! 2 X 10W would have been pretty good at the time!! Tony.
I bought a couple of these.
HIFI 8PCS TDA1387 In Parallel Module Replacement Substitution TDA1541 TDA1541A | eBay
I have previously bought the 4-parallel version and it sounds quite good.
So I will have to see what happens!!!!
HIFI 8PCS TDA1387 In Parallel Module Replacement Substitution TDA1541 TDA1541A | eBay
I have previously bought the 4-parallel version and it sounds quite good.
So I will have to see what happens!!!!
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Today was our local hamfest. Was very limited in time, since I had to fit it between shuttling my wife and daughter to a doll show and Mandarin class, but I did manage to land this JVC receiver for $30. Not exactly what I desire, which is a tube AM FM tuner, but this should be nice in the short term. I was told it was fully functional except 1 failed LED. It's a 1978 JVC JR-S201.
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Well, it turns out that it was not quite as described, ALL the meter LEDs are not working. Which is actually somewhat better, both because it could be a common component that failed and can be more easily fixed, or can be just left alone. It would drive me crazy to look at a display where only a few segments were failed.
I've got a JVC TD-V66 cassette deck. I've done some wow and flutter tests on it and it is on-par with a Nakamichi Dragon. If you find one in the TD-V series then pick it up for cheap if you are into cassettes. Tests were done on Ferro Chromium.
JVC TD-V66 - Manual - Stereo Cassette Deck - HiFi Engine
JVC TD-V66 - Manual - Stereo Cassette Deck - HiFi Engine
Just checked out a recycling store for the 1st time. Right next door to 1-800-got-junk. Was hoping to score something big, like a tube console. Instead all I could find were LP's of James Gang - Live in Concert and Andres Segovia - My Favorite Spanish Encores for $1 each. Had to wade through what seemed like the entire discographies of Roger Whittaker and Rod McKuen. Mr. McKuen wins my award for unbelievably-prolific-artist-I-had-never-heard-of.
I went to try out one of my old tapes a year ago and it barely had any signal left, tried five more, the same; the entire box then went out to the curb.
I wonder if that will ever happen to my sd cards that I’m using now? Time will tell...
I haven’t bought anything good lately, a one way trip to the veterinarian for my best friend, a very sad day to say the least.
I wonder if that will ever happen to my sd cards that I’m using now? Time will tell...
I haven’t bought anything good lately, a one way trip to the veterinarian for my best friend, a very sad day to say the least.
Analog tape does not "lose signal" unless you store it next to a magnet(?).
I've pulled-out a tape from 1953 and, after the flaking on the outer layers, and some shedding throughout (it was an economy brand and not stored well), it played marvelously. Although recorded by a predecessor, I knew the room and the room sound showed through. In mono!
I'm wondering if your tape player went bad.
Ever dig out a 20 year old VHS tape and play it today? uch of the high frequency information has vanished leaving a very lo-res image.
Life in a Florida closet for 20+ years will turn most of the "music" to hiss. Heat will eventually randomize some of the magnetic domains raising the background noise. Print through is another killer of old tapes. The strongly polarized magnetic domains will affect weaker domains on the adjacent layers of tape on the reel. It was recommended that tapes intended to be stored for extended time periods be rewound periodically to help with this issue. It also appeared that the quality of the tape and the recorder makes a difference too.
Back in the late 60's and early 70's (when I was a good guitar player) I spent a lot of time making tapes. I had two decent tape recorders (Sony TC-377 and an older Ampex) and I made multi tracked (bounced) recordings of my friends and I playing around, and some live band recordings. The recordings were done on BASF and Ampex tape (the higher quality versions). I moved out of my parents house in 1973 and packed up the tapes.
Some time around 1979 I bought a Teac 3340 and set up a small home studio. Much to my dismay there was virtually nothing usable on those 8 to 12 year old tapes. The Ampex stuff played, but sounded like a cassette tape, but the BASF stuff just fell apart as it played. The music was full of hiss, and the oxide fell off in chunks. The old trick of running the reel through a fast forward and rewind left a brown mess on the table. These tapes were stored in an air conditioned house the entire time.
I reused some of the vintage Ampex tape in the 80's on the TEAC, but tossed all the BASF. Most of my 80's and 90's recordings with the TEAC used new tape of various brands, mostly Maxell. They did survive well until I sold the TEAC in the mid 2000's but there was some degradation. The obvious issue was print through which degrades the S/N.
I spent a lot of time recording my daughter (drums) and her friends when they visited the "noise room" where they practiced their musical weaponry. Recorded drum transients could be plainly heard on the quiet passages of tape leading up to the recording after just a few months of storage.
http://www.aes.org/aeshc/docs/3mtape/printthrough.pdf